Rear wheel bearing replacement
#1
Thread Starter
Im a tall midget.
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From: So Cal, USA
Rear wheel bearing replacement
I did a search but all I found was threads about the front bearings. I believe I have a bad bearing and was wondering whats involved in changing it or if theres a write up somewhere about this. I'm guessing its not going to be a fun project.
THANKS!
THANKS!
#2
I havent replaced one one the Rx-7 but it should be just like the front to some extent.. You wheel have to remove the hub/steering knuckle and have the bearing pressed out.
1.Disconnect battery ground cable.
2. Raise and support rear of vehicle.
3. Remove tire and wheel assembly.
4. Uncrimp locknut.
5. Depress brake pedal to hold hub, then remove hub nut, see Fig. 2
6.Remove brake caliper assembly and suspend caliper with wire.
7.Remove setscrews (if equipped,) then disc plate.
8.Remove knuckle assembly.
9.Loosen dust cover.
10.Position hub assembly into a suitable press, and remove hub.
11.Using a suitable press and tool Nos. 49F026102 and 490636145, or 12.equivalents, remove wheel bearing inner race.
13.Using snap ring pliers, remove axle flange snap ring.
14.Using a suitable press and tool No. 49F027007, or equivalent, remove wheel bearing outer race.
15.On models with anti-lock brake system, remove sensor rotor and speed sensor
1.Disconnect battery ground cable.
2. Raise and support rear of vehicle.
3. Remove tire and wheel assembly.
4. Uncrimp locknut.
5. Depress brake pedal to hold hub, then remove hub nut, see Fig. 2
6.Remove brake caliper assembly and suspend caliper with wire.
7.Remove setscrews (if equipped,) then disc plate.
8.Remove knuckle assembly.
9.Loosen dust cover.
10.Position hub assembly into a suitable press, and remove hub.
11.Using a suitable press and tool Nos. 49F026102 and 490636145, or 12.equivalents, remove wheel bearing inner race.
13.Using snap ring pliers, remove axle flange snap ring.
14.Using a suitable press and tool No. 49F027007, or equivalent, remove wheel bearing outer race.
15.On models with anti-lock brake system, remove sensor rotor and speed sensor
Last edited by xb2002; 10-13-04 at 11:29 PM.
#3
#7
Racing Rotary Since 1983
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From: Florence, Alabama
i recently did my rear wheel bearings.
after searching the archives i found a mix as to how difficult it was to separate the axle from the hub.... some used a hammer w success, others had to employ a press.
i initially tried to do it manually and eventually gave up as i was breaking my larger hammers.... (that's a lame attempt at humor as it's not recommended to pound on your fd).
i elected to take the upright and axle in to my fav drivetrain guy and he used a press.
i recommend you install new axle seals at the diff. do it carefully and use some grease on the seal.
good luck,
howard coleman
after searching the archives i found a mix as to how difficult it was to separate the axle from the hub.... some used a hammer w success, others had to employ a press.
i initially tried to do it manually and eventually gave up as i was breaking my larger hammers.... (that's a lame attempt at humor as it's not recommended to pound on your fd).
i elected to take the upright and axle in to my fav drivetrain guy and he used a press.
i recommend you install new axle seals at the diff. do it carefully and use some grease on the seal.
good luck,
howard coleman
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#8
Originally Posted by howard coleman
i initially tried to do it manually and eventually gave up as i was breaking my larger hammers....
The first one I did was so stuck the end of the axle actually began to mushroom from the pounding. That was the one that had to be pressed out and then I ground the end of the axle slightly so the hub nut could go back on.
#10
Nope, You still have to go thru all the disassembly. In addition, A new upright is around 1500 bucks each!! Ouch!! Compared to 90 each retail for the bearings. And about 50-100 to your machinist for pressing.
Also the hub condition is not what is making it hard to disassemble. It is the bearing being seized into it. Dissimilar metals tend to Really corrode themselves together to the point of a "weld" almost.
My bearings came out kicking and screaming the entire way! They came out in 3 pieces
Also the hub condition is not what is making it hard to disassemble. It is the bearing being seized into it. Dissimilar metals tend to Really corrode themselves together to the point of a "weld" almost.
My bearings came out kicking and screaming the entire way! They came out in 3 pieces
Last edited by BigIslandSevens; 10-17-04 at 12:52 PM.
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