Over the last 4 or 5 months my '95 had developed a persistent oil leak somewhere around the lower back-end of the engine. The leak seemed to be sensitive to how the car was driven; more leakage when driven harder and/or at higher RPM. After much inspection and even re-sealing the oil pan, I was down to a leaking rear main seal.

Fortunately for me one of the many things I read in preparation mentioned the o-ring on the rear stationary gear. I don't remember who posted this information, but I owe him a hugh thank you because sure enough, that was the real problem. After 95K miles the original o-ring was super hard, almost transformed in to Bakelite, and had broken in one spot leaving a really nice gap for oil to go through. he attached photo shows the break.

Anyway, here's a shopping list for tools that might save some time for the nixt guy that needs to perform a similar repair:

• Transmission jack; Harbor Freight #39178-1VGA @ $59.99 vs $40/week to rent.
• Socket for flywheel nut; 54mm or 2-1/8” Sears #00947789000
  @ $22.99
• ¾ to ½ impact adapter; Sears item #00904271000 @ $6.99
• Clutch alignment tool (1”x 23 splines); Dorman #14503 O’Reilly Auto @ $2.39
• Flywheel stop tool; Mazdatrix #49-220TB @ $22.89
• AutoZone’s blind-hole puller #27128 to remove pilot bearing @ loan w/deposit. Use the 2nd from smallest attachment. Be sure to tighten inside the old bearing with wrenches before starting to pull.
• Puller, use for OE flywheel; AutoZone #27009 @ loan w/deposit
• (2) M10x1.25mm x 75mm bolts (50mm min. length) and (4) flat washers; bolts fit holes in OE flywheel when using the above puller.
• Green Loctite – to seal flywheel nut threads to shaft.
• Small tube of non-hardening high-temp gasket sealant – to seal flat surface of flywheel nut to flywheel

 

Good deal - that's a tricky one to fix. Especially making sure the rotor doesn't shift so you can put the gear back in without tearing the engine down .

Dale

 

Knowing in advance about the o-ring's potentail failure I had already planned on its replacement and just set the engine to TDC before jacking up the car. I was right there anyway disconnecting the battery and lossening the two top-right-hand-side tranny bolts.

I admit to being a little 'concerned' when I started pulling out the rear stationary gear. And then when I went to re-install the assembly about 20~30 minutes later it didn't just slide right back in to place. It would go in easily one tooth off either way. A few taps with a rubber mallet got it started correctly. I started breathing again right after that...