With a KOYO, my guess is that it would be better everywhere. One of the problems noted with higher-capacity radiators is that they may not cool as well at low speeds. Having more coolant flow and a more uniform radiator temperature *should* help this.

Dave

 

Mine is in and I'll probably be driving it later or tomorrow. I'll let you know if I notice a difference on street.

 

Just by looking at it I'd say it's better than the oem one...track street etc. All around a better pump.

-J

 

Now given the choice between this upgraded water pump or the Greddy pulley kit which would be the better choice since they shouldn't be used together. My guess would be the water pump upgrade based on this thread.

thewird

 

Ummm thats apples and bananas my man.......

 

Well I was thinking of getting the Greddy Pulley kit but then I saw this thread. I can only run one of the two. And hence why they are related.

thewird

 

The run the pump.

-J

 

when i put in my Koyo i noticed low speen/rpm driving up a mountain where I live the temps got alittle higher than usuall. 92c. But on the canyons on a hot day my temps stayed ~89 where before (stock rad) it would rise with constant WOT.

I believe this has something to do with the flow rate of the WP AND because the KOYO is thicker, the fans cant really suck air through as easily as the skinny stock rad.

Two things I think will help with thicker radiators which dont get enough air. (traffic,slow speed,front mount ect)
WP flow rate and the fan power.
Just my opinion

 

This impeller is very nice. The fillets at the bottom of the blade and the bullet center look really good for flow. But I think I would reshape the leading edge of the blades more wing-like to avoid cavitation.

For those who have never seen what cavitation can do here is a shot of damaged pump housing.

Barry

 

I wish they would've stamped the front of the housing with a spiffy symbol so that people would know you're running this bad boy ninja pump

 

"Ninja pump" haha nice!

 

So I had my first test drive today. It went quite smooth. It was a bit chilly today here in San Diego due to the cloudy conditions. It was about 60 degrees when I went out for a spirited test drive. Given that its been in the 70s and 80s F for the last month here, I don't have a good direct comparison.

I noticed that it seemed to take a bit longer to warm up. Coolant temps were holding around 75C for longer than I expected (a few miles). I started getting on it and running it through the gears and it got up to temps and held at around 83C.

I typically don't have any issues with my coolant system on the street given my custom V-mount setup. I'm gonna check the schedule for the next autocross and see when that is. I have a track day (weekend actually) later this month so I'll be able to get some feedback on that soon also.

I only installed the water pump thus far - no thermostat.

Cheers.

 

any more updates?

 

Yes some more input is due

I ran my car at Horse Thief Mile with the waterpump and my Vmount kit. Beat the crap out of the car all day long and on the up there and back. IIRC, ambient temps that day were kinda low (somewhere in the 60 degree range F). On track performance was great. I could not break 88C on the coolant temps on the track.

The only way I was able to go beyond those temps was when I was on the skidpad. On the skidpad I was running the car between 5000 and 8000 RPMs in 2nd gear for 15 minutes straight at 10 PSI of boost. Absolutely no break for the car during that time. Coolant temps were 93C. Wouldn't go beyond that.

I attribute most of that performance to my Vmount setup but I must say that the waterpump helped. Part of the what I noticed on the street was that the car runs just a bit cooler than with the stock water pump and the same Vmount setup. Just a little bit in street driving. Another thing I noticed is that on the way back, the car was only running 78C coolant temps going through the San Bernardino mtns. I have never seen coolant temps under 81 C in street driving even in similar temps a few months ago in the "winter" here in SD.

I'd definitely recommend it to anyone looking for the last bit of improved cooling system performance. Definitely recommend it over an underdrive pulley.

 

More feedback.

Ive been running this water pump for a few months now and have done 2 track days with it as well as regular street driving and an autocross. I'm here in San Diego, CA currently.

The water pump has definitely made an improvement in my system. I'm running a custom V-mount [aluminum] radiator and intercooler setup. My temps have been very manageable with this setup but adding this water pump made a nice improvement. I use the Apexi Power FC to monitor temps when I drive.

Typical cruising temps are the same before and after the water pump at around 87 degrees C. My coolant temps stay pretty consistent at 87-88 C when cruising on the highway regardless of ambient temps. I notice that when first started in the morning, it takes a few minutes longer to go beyond mid 70 C coolant temps compared to the stock water pump. I would think that this is b/c the water pump is moving coolant in a quicker ratio compared to stock wp.

In stop and go rush hour traffic or in other situations where I re-start the car and it is hot, I notice that coolant temps decrease faster with this water pump.

I also notice that high RPM doesn't increase my temps as much. Used to be that temps would rise higher than they do when I'm getting on the car hard on the street especially in the mountains.

When in the mountains, I actually see temps lower than before. Sometimes my coolant temps dip into the 78-82 C range which is rather rare for my car.

On track, I have run the car in the above mentioned setup at Buttonwillow for a 2 day event with NASA. At Buttonwillow, my temps didn't go beyond 96 C on a 90+ degree F ambient temp day. You can verify temps at weather.com for 4/26 and 4/27.

I got stuck in stop/go rush hour traffic through Riverside and Pasadena in 90+ degree ambient temps heading to Buttonwillow and temps never exceeded 92 C in that scenario.

This water pump was the last thing my car needed for a track worthy setup (when combined with my custom V-mount setup). I highly recommend this water pump to anyone looking for better cooling and especially to anyone tracking their cars. This works so well I don't even need a lower thermostat.

I'm a happy camper!

 

I also purchased the RE-medy water-pump and have been running it for a month.

My set-up is with a PFS SMIC and Koyo rad with A/C. Couple weeks ago we had some VERY hot days wtih ~100+ degree weather. I purposely drove uphill pretty slowly with A/C on trying to overheat the car and saw max temp of 94 . As soon as I start to drive normal it goes to 87-89 C range. For some reason, on the highway sometimes it stays around 90 though. I havnt had any track events yet.

At first I expected my temps to always stay in the 80's but I think thats impossible with any setup in hot weather. I supose mid 90's is good for a hot day in heavy load driving.

 

Modding this impeller onto an FD pump with a custom pulley would be THE ticket for FD owners who have removed the air pump.

 

Just installed my RE-emedy WP from MazMart. Still working on other parts of the car, so it won't be driven for a couple weeks yet.

The posts on the WP torque were much appreciated. I was trying to torque all the bolts to 16 ft lb, and that's way too much for the 6mm (10 mm head) bolts. One of them didn't feel right, and didn't get torqued down that hard.

Those of you that have twisted off a few bolts know the feeling. The wrench is turning, but it doesn't feel right. The bolt head is turning, but not the bolt shaft.

Anyway, the 6x1 bolts are coming out and getting replaced.

 

I'll be ordering one within the next two weeks, seems to have all good reviews. Reliability first

 

Attached is another picture of cavitation, on a Mercedes.

BTW: Mercedes use to run an ad where they showed an aftermarket waterpump impeller vs. the Factory waterpump impeller.

If memory servers me, the MB Factory looked very similar to the RE-Medy waterpump impeller, and the aftermarket looked like the Factory Mazda one.

When will the reliability modding end . . .

:-) neil

 

REALLY interesting thread.

I just pulled my water pump and housing due to a disastrous coolant failure, which i attributed to the water pump.

My water pump housing -- looked like this --



So, this scouring is caused by "cavitation"? Please help me understand this phenominon, and do i need to get a new water pump housing?

 

They said they don't have any for the RX-7.

 

Crymsom, your housing looks like circumferential wear from the impeller rubbing the housing, probably bad bearings in the pump.

The cavitation looks like erosion below.

Barry

 

just called them today...they only sell the pumps WITH the housing that the pump goes INTO....because they can no longer get the pumps alone....

its a pretty steep investment for a part like this now...

 

Huh? What housing?

It was always a one piece deal same as if you were buying a factory WP. Cost is around $200 or so.