Re-Amemiya redom type A or B, can my motor handle it?
#1
Re-Amemiya redom type A or B, can my motor handle it?
Now I have bought the redom type ? box and it boosts 1,25 bar that is approximate 17,5 psi, isnt that a little rough? I have a full bpu, but can the motor handle this pressure? I think its weird if it shouldent because its still a re-amemiya mapped box, but who knows.
I would guess that this is a type B Maybe.
I have the old standard fd turbos and Ive heard that the bearings only can handle about 15 psi (safe mode) and over that they shouldent stay alive very long.
Regards / tobbe
I would guess that this is a type B Maybe.
I have the old standard fd turbos and Ive heard that the bearings only can handle about 15 psi (safe mode) and over that they shouldent stay alive very long.
Regards / tobbe
#4
Ok, I`m not using that box I just tried it out. I`m going to run a knightsport box at 12psi.
But how much boost can the stoch fuel handle?
How much psi can stock turbos produce?
What fuel mods are usually done to support higher boost?
/Tobbe
But how much boost can the stoch fuel handle?
How much psi can stock turbos produce?
What fuel mods are usually done to support higher boost?
/Tobbe
#5
You typically need something done to the fuel once you are around 13 PSI. Some tests in the past have shown older stock fuel pumps dropping off around 13 PSI. There have been people in the past who have run the stock injectors pretty high, but if you want to keep some reliability, I would suggest keeping the boost to 12-13 PSI on the stock fuel system.
The stock turbos have produced power as far as the stock MAP sensor can read (which is around 17 PSI). However, the more PSI you run, the hotter the turbos get and the hotter the air is coming out of them. If you cannot cool the charge sufficiently, you open yourself up to pre-ignition (detonation). Keeping the turbos in a good effective range keeps the charge temps down as well as the overall engine temp.
Larger injectors, higher rated fuel pump, aftermarket fuel pressure regulator..... However, you need an ECU programmed for the larger injectors whether that is a programmable ECU like the PFC or a reprogrammed stock ECU like Knightsports and RE-A can provide.
The stock turbos have produced power as far as the stock MAP sensor can read (which is around 17 PSI). However, the more PSI you run, the hotter the turbos get and the hotter the air is coming out of them. If you cannot cool the charge sufficiently, you open yourself up to pre-ignition (detonation). Keeping the turbos in a good effective range keeps the charge temps down as well as the overall engine temp.
Larger injectors, higher rated fuel pump, aftermarket fuel pressure regulator..... However, you need an ECU programmed for the larger injectors whether that is a programmable ECU like the PFC or a reprogrammed stock ECU like Knightsports and RE-A can provide.
#6
I`m just trying out some things for this season, thats why i`m using a premapped ecu. Apexi pfc and single turbo and so on is going in the car next year, probably.
Some of the upgrades I have done with my car is this.
Upprated 255lph fuel pump with thicker power cable.
Front mounted intercooler
Apexi dual airfilter
Boostcontroller
Fluidyne radiator
Full 3 inch exhaust with decat.
/tobbe
Can I go with the knightsport ecu that produces 12psi with my upgrades
Some of the upgrades I have done with my car is this.
Upprated 255lph fuel pump with thicker power cable.
Front mounted intercooler
Apexi dual airfilter
Boostcontroller
Fluidyne radiator
Full 3 inch exhaust with decat.
/tobbe
Can I go with the knightsport ecu that produces 12psi with my upgrades
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#10
Iàm still wondering about my re-amemiya ecu, if the ecu is programmed for about 17-18 psi shouldent the fuel be programmed for that aswell? Its still a re-amemiya box and I think the know how the should program there ecus or am I wrong?
I tested the box for one night and I didnt notice any problem with the fuel the car drove very good, I was a little bit nervous when I got a flame wich was about one meter and lid up the hole neighbourhood and the high boost othervise I didnt have any problems so what do you guys think?
/Tobbe
I tested the box for one night and I didnt notice any problem with the fuel the car drove very good, I was a little bit nervous when I got a flame wich was about one meter and lid up the hole neighbourhood and the high boost othervise I didnt have any problems so what do you guys think?
/Tobbe
#11
I think you should contact Re-Amemiya: inukai@re-amemiya.co.jp
#13
If you are on the stock fuel system, you definitely don't have enough fuel to run 17 PSI. 12-13 PSI is the safer levels as Mahjik mentioned.
I wonder if that ECU isn't for a single turbo setup since even 15 PSI on the stock turbos is a little outside their efficiency range.
I wonder if that ECU isn't for a single turbo setup since even 15 PSI on the stock turbos is a little outside their efficiency range.
#14
I am on stock injectors at the moment and uprated fuel pump with a thick directly connected powercable. If this is programmed for a single turbo i never thought that it would work so good in my car is that possible?
As said I ran the car for one night with this box, i did 2 streetrace and drove about 100km and I didnt have any problems. I cant figure this out. I thought that the car would run bad if you have an ecu that is programmed for single turbo and different injectors.
As said I ran the car for one night with this box, i did 2 streetrace and drove about 100km and I didnt have any problems. I cant figure this out. I thought that the car would run bad if you have an ecu that is programmed for single turbo and different injectors.
#15
I personally don't know. I'm just speculating.
By the way, you should consider getting a Wideband 02 sensor and gauge. Its a great information source to determine if you are running safe Air/Fuel ratios.
By the way, you should consider getting a Wideband 02 sensor and gauge. Its a great information source to determine if you are running safe Air/Fuel ratios.
#16
You need to contact amemiya and ask what supporting mods you need to run this ECU safely.
I tested the box for one night and I didnt notice any problem with the fuel the car drove very good, I was a little bit nervous when I got a flame wich was about one meter and lid up the hole neighbourhood and the high boost othervise I didnt have any problems so what do you guys think?
/Tobbe
/Tobbe
I think you are insane. You have no idea what your AFR's, injector duty cycle, fuel pressure, EGT's and you go ahead and slap this box and go for a test drive at 17 psi? **** that you are the kind of person that give the rotary a bad name. I'm serious the least you should be monitoring are AFR's... at least that would give you an indication of your fuel supply.
Just because you didn't blow up last night does not mean that you are safe.
So you can see that we don't lie. I know you are not in the same situation but it still applies:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/engine-safety-mod-advice-853395/
#17
Insane? You dont know the story behind. I bought it and the guy said its a type A and the boost is set for 12psi but when I tried it I didnt push it thru all the way on the second turbo so I had then 12 psi, so later that evening I ended up in a race and pushed it thru then I got 17 psi. That was then my main concern and since that evening it hasen`n been in the car.
But if Iàm going to sell it or use it I wanna know what its for and how to make it safer when using..
How can I give rotaries a bad name, just by being misinformed?
By the way an 02 sensor is on its way.
But if Iàm going to sell it or use it I wanna know what its for and how to make it safer when using..
How can I give rotaries a bad name, just by being misinformed?
By the way an 02 sensor is on its way.
#18
You are missing the point. Yes the ECU can have the settings to provide more fuel but that does not mean that your system can physically handle the demands of the ECU. Injector duty cycle and fuel pressure should be your main concern when using this ECU.
You need to contact amemiya and ask what supporting mods you need to run this ECU safely.
You need to contact amemiya and ask what supporting mods you need to run this ECU safely.
I dont use the ecu, I just tried it. I am waiting for re-amemiyas answer.
#19
Edit last post.
maybe I am but i thought that if the ecu was programmed for larger injectors then it woulden run so good. I was under the impression that it would jump around and run poor on low rpm or the other way around but it didnt.
I am waiting for re-amemiyas answer.
PS:I dont use the ecu, I just tried it.
maybe I am but i thought that if the ecu was programmed for larger injectors then it woulden run so good. I was under the impression that it would jump around and run poor on low rpm or the other way around but it didnt.
I am waiting for re-amemiyas answer.
PS:I dont use the ecu, I just tried it.
#20
Ok I gotcha on what happened. .. Given that you are still sequential:The priamary turbo should have the same level of boost as second turbo. Basically a pattern of 12-10-12. From what you wrote you actually got a boost pattern of 12-?-17. Now that's not right at all... Yeah ditch that thing.
A bad name through misinformation? yes.
Rotaries got a worst rap than they deserve from uniformed decisions that people have made inthe past. They are not as fragile as the majority of people seem to think. They can take quite a bit of abuse. What they don't take well is detonation, unlike their piston counterpart. I'de be scared shitless of that ECU... Mahjik mentioned that the stock MAP sensor reads to 17 psi... So what does the ECU read on a cold night when the boost exceeds 17 psi?
I hate re chipped ECU's... Too limiting and too many blind variables. Stand alones is the way to go. Good luck man
A bad name through misinformation? yes.
Rotaries got a worst rap than they deserve from uniformed decisions that people have made inthe past. They are not as fragile as the majority of people seem to think. They can take quite a bit of abuse. What they don't take well is detonation, unlike their piston counterpart. I'de be scared shitless of that ECU... Mahjik mentioned that the stock MAP sensor reads to 17 psi... So what does the ECU read on a cold night when the boost exceeds 17 psi?
I hate re chipped ECU's... Too limiting and too many blind variables. Stand alones is the way to go. Good luck man
#21
RE-A Redom
Hello
E-mail me about the serial number shown as the pic.
inukai@re-amemiya.co.jp
or
sakae_inukai@yahoo.co.jp
E-mail me about the serial number shown as the pic.
inukai@re-amemiya.co.jp
or
sakae_inukai@yahoo.co.jp
#23
Hello
Basically, we sell our Redom with the document papers about tec info.
But you don't have the paper.
So we cannot find the internal program without the serial number.
The best way is to send the ECU unit to us.
If you want, we can reprogram it for your car mods indivisually.
Regards
Basically, we sell our Redom with the document papers about tec info.
But you don't have the paper.
So we cannot find the internal program without the serial number.
The best way is to send the ECU unit to us.
If you want, we can reprogram it for your car mods indivisually.
Regards
#24
If you have the money for a stand alone and a tune it will be some of the best money you have spent on the car to date. At least at the very minimum you will know you are safe.
#25
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 279
Likes: 1
From: Trinidad, West Indies
Hi folks, I'd like to share my findings on from a friend's car who ran the Redom type-B ECU on a 93-95 model Rx7, stock port, rebuilt motor, with just exhaust upgrade and a SMIC , stock injectors, stock fuel pump, on 93-94 octane pump gas and on a Dyno Dynamics Dyno earlier on today, he did a max. of 318 RWHP at about 13-14 psi. A/F ratios were in the 10's , also running BUR9EQ's all round. Its was pretty safe. I presently have a PFC in my car and the most I got out of a similar setup was 272 RWHP , I'm thinking about getting a Redom type-B for myself actually. I'd like to have it tuned to run similar boost. ....
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