Well, Dave at KDR has been working on FDs since their inception, so I don't think the problem is related to his work.

I've also never heard of an FD oil pump chain failing, not sure if it's more common with FCs and FBs.

Getting behind the front cover with the motor in the car is not a fun job, make sure that the needle bearing doesnt slip behind the spacer when you remove the 19mm main shaft bolt (if you can remove it, lol).

 

Like you said Goodfella, the problem I am having with my car is not related to Dave's work. I wouldn't drive over an hour away if I didn't feel it was worth the drive. Any problem that I have had with my car has always been fixed by Dave and I wouldn't trust anyone else with my car. Anyway, I spoke to Dave today and I will be towing it back up to him most likely next week. I don't want to jinx what the cause of this sound could be. I will just say for now that if the problem is what Dave thinks it is, don't get the ecentric pulley powdercoated. Keep it how you have it. I still run a risk of driving the car up there, so that is why I am towing it. He saw this problem once before. Basically the four bolts on the back of the pulley may not be tight causing the sound that I hear, plus the cause of my rpm's going crazy. The reason it might be the powdercoating is because, the powdercoating is adding more of a surface area around the pulley. He told me he had a tough time tightening the bolts. Its hard to diagnose something without seeing it, but he thinks those 4 bolts might be coming loose. If this is the problem, he would have to remove the eccentric pulley and remove the powdercoating on the whole back area, right down to the metal and that should fix the problem. I am going to bring my oem main pulley when I bring the car up there to see if I should just put that back on to be safe. I know it sounds weird, but i would rather have that as the cause than something else. I am lucky though that if this is the problem that the 4 bolts did not come out, cause then I would have a bigger problem.

 

What/where is the CAS timing ring?

 

You can see it in the post with the pulley pics, it's the slotter thin sheet metal piece with the "finger" sticking out immediately behind the ES pulley.

Dave

 

I've never liked those old-style Unorthodox underdrive main pulleys for a few reasons, and this is one of them.

 

In your own opinion, do you think if the cause of the problem is the eccentric pulley, do you think I should not bother fixing the problem with the unorthodox one and have the oem one installed back on. I was hesitant about getting the eccentric pulley from unorthodox put on. My car was running great before that. Actually it was running great for a few weeks after the unorhtodox pulleys were installed up until a week ago.

 

I found an old thread back from 2004. Someone asked a question about someone who bought a set of Unorthodox pulleys and wanted to know if there are any problems with them. One person replied with this:

"getting the main pulley off is a bitch. Other than that, you don't have to worry about anything else, timing and A/F mixtures are affected."

Is that statement true about the timing and A/F mixtures being affected. I still haven't been able to run down to close to the bottom of my gas tank and fill it back up to get an idea on what I am getting on mileage, because of the problem I have right now, but so far I know my mileage is not the same. If the A/F is affected, would putting back the oem main pulley fix the issue of the gas mileage? I only got the unorthodox pulleys for cosmetic reasons so if changing out the unorthodox main pulley back to the oem will help with the gas mileage than i will do that. I just want my car running back how it was. It probably would have been better to go by the old saying, if its not broken, don't fix it.

 

Out of the set of underdrive pulleys from unorthodox, I only used the Main, P/S and W/P pulleys. I was going to use the Alt., but when I put the pulley on the alternator and went to tighten the nut on it, I don't think I even got it to tighten past 2 threads. I tried 2 alternators and they both had the same problem when i tried to tighten the nut on it, so I just got a factory alt pulley powdercoated, so I could make sure the nut tightened better to secure the alt pulley. The other thing I did not thing of before, but having an underdrive pulley on for the main pulley, will that have an effect on putting a big stereo system in the car, or by having the oem pulley still on for the alternator, will that be fine?

 

Yeah... mine did as well! It's the only actual "chain" in the whole engine!

Umm, I know that some idiot did not do the proper reinstall procedure after he got his underdrive pulleys, he did not have the clutch depressed, and it totally fucked up the little front "roller bearing" thing in there.

And yeah, again, I second pulling the front cover to check the oil chain!

 

I'm with Dave on this one; i have had some difficulty with the pulley's before. the rattling noise could be the reluctor ring smacking against the sensors. let me know what you find. And one more thing, for those guys that think that pulling the front cover is like unbolting the wheel; it is very involved and includes taking the pan off to ensure no leakage afterwards. NOT FUN.

 

One reason Dave said it would be safer for me to tow it up there was, if the main pulley were to come off, one the car obviously would just stop running and second the 2 sensors behind if damaged cost around $400 a pop to replace and its a bitch to get to them.

 

not to mention all the accessories not working! When you stop to see him, tell him i said hello, and let him know i'll be down to see him in a few months to square up. lol.

 

HAHA!, yeah that too. I'll give Dave the message.

 

i have the same problem my self right now but my noise seems to be coming from the oil filter to transmission area,the noise coming out of my car is like a loud winding sound and it gets louder when i rev it.i hope you find it because i am tired of looking for it.

 

Well I never had a chance to get the car towed up to KD until last Friday night. Well everything is fixed. I had the under drvie crank pulley swapped back to the factory pulley and that solved the problem with the rattling chain sound I was getting. The car idles back to how it did before I had it installed and my gas mileage is back to what i was getting before the underdrive pulley was put on. I know some people said that their gas mileage changed when they switched to an underdrive pulley and I can vouch for that. I guess the lesson here is if its not broken, don't fix it and don't get an underdrive from unorthodox powder coated a color you want, otherwise you might end up in the same pickle I was in.