Has anyone ever installed one yet? Especially those of us who were in on the group buy. Was chatting with a friend and we're thinking we wasted some $$$ since no one ever mentions anything about it.

 

I have it on my Supra - best $ spent.

 

You definetly wasted your money. Now you should sell it. I will offer you $500 shipped

Seriously though. I will buy it if you want to sell it.

 

I'm also curious to see why it isn't mentioned. Maybe the RaceLogic's method of power reduction (cutting injector pulsewidths) is of concern for engine health?

 

It's not mentioned because it's not as impressive sounding in a signature as coil-overs or high numbers.

 

It's weird, friends with Supras that bought the kit talk about it (installation + reviews) but none of the FD folks seem to say anything. If it's as good as what my supra friend claims it to be, then i'm pumped to get it installed. But the silence is making me apprehensive...as if no one can figure out how to install nor tune the sucker.

Where's Poweraxel...i think he got one?

 

I had it on my t78 purple car for a while. It worked well, no ill side affects. Took it off because i needed some cash

 

My BMW has it with teh full throttle upshift module.. Its beyond bad ***!

 

I bought it and installed it on my FD. For some reason, I have never taken it lower than the 20% setting. It was VERY easy to setup, kida a pain to install, but Racelogic included perfect length wires to run to the ABS control module, so the cutting/splicing/pulling wires headache was minimal.

Performance review? Well...
The Racelogic uses a bizarre type of fuel cut, where it cuts injector pulsewidth by more than 50%, basically eliminating the concern that the motor will lean out to detonation by way of reducing fuel so significantly that it hardly combusts, if at all. The full throttle shift option softly reduces the RPM to the preset secondary rev limiter. Traction control issues are a thing of the past with this sucker! I can do slight powerslides, short burnouts, but anything over 20% wheelspin, and the motor cuts and the car squats down and moves! I noticed that when shifting now I no longer hear the BOV 'til I release the throttle after the 1-2-3-4. The car feels faster and more stable, more reliable, ad is defiently more entertaining to drive! Best $850 ever spent. Am I worried about it popping the motor? Nope! Even when I've fucked up and dropped the clutch off first, the tires chirp, the car grunts, and then screams away like it's on M/T Streets!

 

Ok, that makes more sense. I was envisioning a more subtle leaning into detonation territory (which, ironically may make more power).

Man, a video of this sure would kick a$s... (The Z3 on their site doesn't count! )

 

I've always wanted to get one, maybe i will now.

 

can you turn it off when you wont or is it a all the time thing ? casue the tc on my sis z3 and the tc on my moms 350 z both suck and make the car slower
joel

 

thx for the replies!! was the install pretty straight forward...same for the tuning/programming? just drive per instructions?

 

I just bought one but I don't have it installed yet.

sszablya - how did you hook up the clutch engage/disengage switch for your full throttle shifting and what kind of switch did you use for it?

bigmack000 - you can turn it off as well as 5, 10, 15, and 20% slip settings by turning a small **** on the controller.

 

I love mine. Especially when the roads get slick. Always in control. Mine is set for 10% slippage most of the time.

Instead of tires going up in smoke you just accerelate. Saves tire wear.

Ken

 

If I remember correctly the Full throttle shift looks for a GND when the clutch is depressed - chances are you already have the correct switch on your clutch.

BTW - the RLTCS does not reduce inj pulse width - it either provide 100% of the needed pulse width - or 0%. It will alternate cylinders until traction is found. Running either all or none of the fuel needed is the only way to really be safe.

Setup is a snap - pop in the calibration plug and roll straight then turn the car so it can learn. It takes about 10 seconds. The default settings are good - you can fine tune it with a laptop too.

 

Has anyone tried this with a high-hp car? I break the tires loose every time I apply 30% or more throttle, under 100 mph. I have to play the peddle game, and I know I am not being as fast as I could be. But I am affraid with something that spins all the time, it would be.. ??

 

Yea, I figured they were skipping pulses... I didn't see any info on their site. Gotta question anything that goes inline with the injectors.

I take it, it deals with our primary/secondary setup OK?

 

http://www.racelogic.co.uk/traction.htm

 

Linked from wylie's link:
http://www.racelogic.co.uk/techtrac.htm

We'll I'll be damned. Thanks wylie. I only looked at the install instructions and made assumptions.

 

hmm i liek hwo it can be adjusted. think i migth look into gettign this if my fd breaks loose all the tiem when its done good info in this thread thanks guys
joel

 

I use it on my Supra (should be close to 800 rwhp when it hits the dyno) and it works fantastically.

You simply nail the throttle and it accelerates as fast as the traction will allow. It's a bit un-nerving to hear the car missing - but that's what it's supposed to do. It sort of sound like a car on a 2-step.

The software allows you to fine to how aggressive the trac control comes on too - so its very flexible. But I've been happy with it just as it was out of the box. It keeps you from getting sideways and possible off the road.

 

Jim,

What slip percentage are you using?

 

Depends on the road conditions. I usually keep it on 30% - when it's wet out though - I put it on the wet setting just to be safe.

I was surprised by just how much wheelspin 30% is - but that seems to be the best setting for my car.

Play around with it - it's very cool!

 

So how would it work if you use direct port NOS? Would it missfire properly or would the NOS still ignite causing a lean condition? I only ask because I'm installing that too.