Have single with no emissions...and 4 vac hoses...yet quote for R&R was $1300 same as a bone stock seven...WTF?

Shouldn't it be cheaper for a single turbo no solenoids, or emission that putting back a complicated stock seven?

 

??? Ummmm, removing and re-installing the engine has nothing to do with the kind of turbo or how many vac lines there are.
There isn't even one step that's different, you still have the harness, you still have the exhaust, you still have the transmission, you still have the P/S pump and AC, you still have the motor mounts.
What exactly did you think a single turbo conversion would save you when it comes to removing the engine??

Regardless, I believe the standard quote for just R&R should be $800.00 not $1300.00 unless there is other work being performed on the engine.

 

What is R&R?

 

Removal and re-install, in this case a motor.

 

thanks.

 

???? Considering that I have done 5 motors....yes there is quite a bit of difference....

the rats nest...whole hella lot more vac hoses....things that crack and break when even lightly removed.

Your telling me there is no more involved when R&R ing a stock 65 vac hoses umpteem solenoids (which I have none)?.....engine harness is no problem when everything not needed for single, no emissions setup...no rats nest....A/C and PS gets removed when block is out...easy **** here.

He is not removing the tranny...


no step thats different...hmmm how many motors have you removed?

 

The shop probably just has a flat rate for R&R of a rotary engine.

 

Here is the 4th
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/pictures-new-turbo-install-374291/

Since when do you have to touch ANY vacuum lines removing the engine?? And you have done 5 motors? what are they Civi motors?
Do you even know what engine R& R mean when you asked the question?
Here is a list of things done for Engine R&R:

1. Release fuel pressure
2. Disconnect the battery
3. Disconnect the ECU
4. Detach A/C compressor, move out of way
5. Detach P/S pump, move out of way
6. Disconnect oil lines to the oil cooler
7. Disconnect boost controller (if not stock)
8. Disconnect secondary harness connections (Alternator etc.)
9. Discoonect transmission sensors
10. Disconnect MAP sensor
11. Drain all fluids, disconnect radiator hoses
12. Unbolt tranny and pressure plate (unless you want to remove the tranny too)
13. Unbolt DP
14. Unbolt motor mount
15. Hoist engine out

This is just off the top of my head. But I'm pretty sure there isn't much more. Re-install is just the reverse of the same list. Where do you see anything about vacuum line?
So again, how many motors have you done??

 

Again 5 motors...guess the R&R definition is unclear...I mean stripping the motor...getting a new motor and reinstalling parts to the new motor...certainly there is more involved in these steps for a stock set up than a single setup?

Takes me about 2.5 hours to do prepare the engine to pull...the above quote is for removal, stripping, reinstalling parts to new motor and reinsertion...but fluids are extra...still think that $1300 is WAY high...thinkingMAX $1000.

is this unreasonable?

 

Cover if you've done 5 yourself why in the world would you be getting a quote for someone else to do yours? and trex usually if you're having a motor pulled its for a reason...either you will have it rebuilt or put a different short block in. either way the motor would be just a short block and would need everything, including rats nest etc put back in, no?

 

Because....I am a Senior Project Manager for a Biotech Co (Chemical Engineer)...and am extremely busy...have done enough work on my seven..just about everything possible. Apparently widebody...you are not familiar with my username...I have done nearly every mod myself except for tuning and frankly, would like to have work with warranty for once....

 

i always figured r&r ment removal and rebuild. if its just to pull your engine, why the hell not buy the rotary aviation videos which show exactly what to do and every fricken bolt and nut there is on our car and pull it yourself. if you dont got 5 hours (actually 3 hours since you can prep an negine for pull in 2.5 hours) to burn or the 50 dollars in tools (im assuming you are smart enough to find a place which will rent you tools fairly cheaply or have friends with them), then burn the 1300 dollars its gonna cost you!!! dont bitch, everyone has gotta make a living, although not everyone needs a ferrari haha. i do think it should be closer to 800 bucks to pull and reinstall a new engine...

Since your are a Senior Project Manager for a Biotech Co (Chemical Engineer), you should be able to easily afford this (i mean come on dude, its not like you have a 6.25 dollar an hour job like some of us have! why does it seem like the people which are fairly well off bitch the most? frick you make it like you need that extra 300 bucks for food or something!). also, you do realize that you can shop around right? if you dont like the price, go someplace else! they dont have a gun to your head. the people you are having do it for you cant possibly be the only ones that will do it for you. hell, have your car shipped to another state if you have to, your in the mainland and it should be fairly cheap.

 

Actually, I am not bitching...I am asking if this is reasonable...I have always done my own work so I do not know what are "good" prices...the reason I posted on this forum was to reference costs...and having some money or a good job doesnt mean you have to burn the money in your pocket.

Christ! Is $1300 reasonable or not? That is the ******* question....dont need the condencension...please lets not lose the scope of the question with meaningless opinions. Around my area there are not alot of choices (that I am aware of anyway) so its florida ohio or north carolina...

I'm thinking most of you panzees dont really know what is cost reasonable for the work. It is the responses above that make "SEARCH" functions a PITA...sifting through trash from trash..

 

I usually charge around $800 for an R&R, If a person isnt planning on replacing the vacuum lines on a stock turbo car, then it is really about the same as the single car( i always leave the rats nest, harness, secondary fuel rail, and LIM in one piece).

 

To answer your question now that we have a clear understanding of the actual work you are referring to. If the work has warranty then it is not too high. If no warranty is given for the work done it should be around 1K to 1100.

Engine R&R refers to remove and re-install, NOT remove and rebuild. That is different than the teardown which is the process of removing all peripheral components to get to the short block. Rebuild is the teardown of the short block and replacing all out of spec parts (apex seals, rotors, housing etc.). If you have ever seen the Bruce Turrentine (Rotary Aviation) videos it explains it very clearly.

There are people that pays for R&R only and do the tear down and/or rebuild themself to save money.

If you are an engineer then you should understand the concept of asking the right question. Without it, it's dificult to get the right answer.

 

Well Trex....you must be a public school product! Several posts ago I defined exactly what the quote was in reference to...so apparently you cant read...so we can cut the "if i am an engineer..." how many motors I have done....might look up my engine pics which were recently posted...

Who the hell pays someone to pull the engine then does the stripping themselves? What.. does the mechanic come to your home and pull it for you? Or maybe he pulls the motor then ships it to you to remove all the parts then you ship it back to have him reinstall? And then to pay $800 for that?

The removal is the easy part....stripping parts then transferring them is much more of a PITA and labor intensive (read = more money) then reinstall is more difficult than removal (IMHO).

$800 is quite a variance from $1300....but the quote is from a Rotary specific shop...

 

$1000 is typically the medium. Some shops/people lower, other shops higher. $1300 is fairly reasonable depending on the shop. If it's a shop with a "name", then yes you'll pay more but you'll most likely have better service.

 

Damn....thanks Mahjik!

 

It's really sad to see someone trying to cover a minor mistake by trying to be a jerk.
I didn't know MIT is a public school, sorry.
My post is a response to you original post and just to remind you what your original question was:

Would you mind pointing to where it meantioned tear down and transferring to a new motor?
Maybe you should invest in a reading class.
I know people who have in fact paid for the removal of the engine, put it on the back of a truck, take it home to do the tear down, rebuild and porting, drive it back to the shop for re-install. Saved $ 2000.00 in the process (people charge $1200 to $1800 labor or more for rebuild and porting).

"The removal is the easy part....stripping parts then transferring them is much more of a PITA and labor intensive (read = more money) then reinstall is more difficult than removal "
You are right about one thing, when it comes to sentences like this, I really can't read. LOL
I'm sure you will find a lot of help with that attitude on the forum, what ever makes you feel like a man.

 

I wouldn't ever pay anyone that much to remove and replace my motor. I don't imagine it would take even the average Joe mechanic more than an hour or two with the proper tools to remove my motor. I agree that seems way high, but does seem inline with what some places charge.

 

Trex:

Posted above...

"Again 5 motors...guess the R&R definition is unclear...I mean stripping the motor...getting a new motor and reinstalling parts to the new motor...certainly there is more involved in these steps for a stock set up than a single setup?"

Maybe this is not clear enough? As far as writing complete sentences...who cares? This is a forum not a thesis defense.

Not saying much for MIT there Trex....

As far as feeling like a "man"....dont have to worry about that. Played two years, professional indoor football as a quarterback (thus the cover8 username = zone pass coverage) staring at backers 1yd away from my face trying to rip my head off. Talking "tuff" on the forum matters little to me.

I've done plenty of work on my car and am trying to justify the cost of having someone else do the work. I have a brand new engine and it is not running correctly with a massive oil leak too. I am trying to plan for worst case.

A simple cost quote from folks that had similar work done would have been most helpful. Really dont have the tolerance tonight for bullshit on this forum. Quality has really gone down