RLaoFD

iTrader: (6)

So I finished my swap earlier today (been going on for exactly 2 weeks now) and just had a few questions.

First, there is a noise coming from the transmission that I can constantly hear, and it increases as RPM's rise. It sounds like a faint rattling, I suspect it has something to do with something spinning.

Second, my shifter is too loose for my liking. Is there anything I can do to stiffen it up. When it's in gear, it still wiggles from left to right a lot.

Third, how do i disable the blinking "Hold" light properly? I am using the auto gauge cluster and was just planning on swapping out the faces for the manual one, but I cannot source it at this time.

and on a side, is there any way to unbolt the tranny without taking of the UIM?

Thanks

RLaoFD

iTrader: (6)

bump

96fd3s

another bump, good luck

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

How is the condition of the shifter boot and bushings? The stock shifter is ridiculously over-engineered with a bunch of rubber parts, wave springs, bushings, etc. The rubber boot that slips over the shifter and has the 3 bolt holes is the only thing that really secures it. If that tears, the shifter will move around. The bottom bushing that fits in the "cup" of the shift lever inside the trans also frequently wears and can cause sloppiness. Get a new stock one. The metal aftermarket ones transmit a lot of noise. Also check the long groove bushing in the large ball part of the shifter. There is a metal peg that fits into that groove and keeps the shifter from wobbling.

RLaoFD

iTrader: (6)

^I am using a stock one right now. I went to Mazda today and tried to buy a replacement for the bushing that goes into the transmission and the parts guy there kept insisting there wasn't anything between the shifter ball joint and the tranny. I of course had to disagree because I've seen myself that there is a little orange bushing down there. I asked for their FSM and showed the parts guy there there was something there, and learned it was called a Shift Seat. Unfortunately, he didn't know if he could order the part because it was not shown on the computer so he was going to call mazda's main office tomorrow. Thanks for letting me know about the little rubber boot, Ihor. The used one I have on there now has a slight tear in it, and I didn't think anything of it.

About one of my other issues. I figured out that the spinning/rattling sound coming from my trans only occurs when the clutch is not pushed in. When i have the clutch pedal depressed, the noise goes away. Hope this gives someone a clue to help me diagnose what's actually going on. Also, it doesn't seem to be making the noise when the car is cold, or on first day startup.

HawaiianRedMako

Call Ray Malloy at 1-888 533 3400. I ordered the shifter parts from him, he's probably cheaper than the dealers for the exact same Mazda parts!. The dealers don't know s**t about FD's

RLaoFD

iTrader: (6)

I ordered a couple of the parts from Mazdatrix, they seem to be really inexpensive.

A couple of other little problems, if i have my running lights on, once in a blue moon the car idle hunts above 1k rpm. It keeps on bouncing and doesn't stop. I'm considering jumping to a PFC maybe, if I come to the conclusion that it will be the best way to go. Also the car has died on me twice after a cold start in mid-turn. It starts right up but I don't know what could be causing it. Again, PFC would be my solution.

Would the auto harness work with a manual ECU? If so I might look into picking one up to test to see if it will run better when cold. After it warms up, the car is flawless, and more fun, I might add.

evilg

Remove the Guage cluster, then remove the light bulb for the hold light. That is probably the easiest way to do it..... - I did that on an MX3 I used to own.

badddrx7

iTrader: (7)

Blinking "Hold" light - No need to remove dash cluster at this time

To eliminate go to the driver side kick panel. Remove the panel. Remove battery negative cable. Look for the CPU #2 inside the panel area. Look for a 7 wire connector on the CPU #2 ( NOT the 19 wire connector ). Then look for an ORANGE wire, should be on the end. Remove the connector, turn it around and pop open the pin holding tab. Using a very small screwdriver lift the lock up on the ORANGE wire and pull it out. Secure the wire pin with tape. Put the holding tab back down and plug the connector back in. Replace the kick panel cover and re-connect the negative cable. Turn the car on and enjoy the dash without blinking light.

Report back



LAter

RLaoFD

iTrader: (6)

Thanks Tom, I will try this tomorrow. The car is running much better after the first 50 miles of learning on the ECU, but it looks like I'll have to reset it again...

RLaoFD

iTrader: (6)

okay so I pulled the orange wire on CPU #2 and that did not work. Anyone have any ideas?

sereneseven

If it a tinny rattle noise like a (empty soda can with a rock in it) it could be something worn or loose in the throw out bearing system like the spring on the arm being broken or the tabs holding the bearing to the arm being bent allowing the bearing to move around on it and rattle.

If it is more of a dry bearing noise(whurring?muted rattle), the most likely suspects would be either the input shaft bearing or the intermediate bearing between the input and output shafts both of these bearings seem to start to wear out around the 60k-80k mark. problem is pretty common though most owners simply ignore it or don't notice it.

If the noise lessens while in fourth you can elliminate the intermidiate bearing.

badddrx7

iTrader: (7)

Before we proceed are you absolutely sure you lifted the orange wire on the smaller 7 wire black connector and taped it off, and NOT the orange wire on the larger 19 wire connector? And it is taped up and not touching ground?


Later

RLaoFD

iTrader: (6)

Tom,

Very peculiar, but I found that I do not have the 19 Pin Harness connected in the CPU. Either I wasn't paying enough attention due to time constraint, or it wasn't there, and I'm pretty sure it was the latter. I did however find the 7 Pin connector and found the orange wire at the end of it just as you said. I safely removed it and taped it off. I did all of this in a matter of a minute or so, so I'm thinking maybe I did not allow the ECU to reset in time?? I removed the negative terminal on the battery, removed the wire, plugged the harness back in, and put the negative terminal back in a little over a minute.

RLaoFD

iTrader: (6)

The noise definitely lessens after 4th, and it also almost completely stops with my foot on the pedal.

So here's what I've gathered as likely suspects--let me know what you guys think,

-throwout bearing system
-input shaft bearing

badddrx7

iTrader: (7)

If you are absolutely sure of the wire ( and the 19 pin connector is there on the CPU-2, look on the side) then test the end of the orange wire with a continuity tester and tell me if it is grounded. Disconnect the battery first.


Also does it flash fast constantly and does it flash with the exterior lights off, or all the time...lights on or off.


LAter

RLaoFD

iTrader: (6)

Tom,

It flashes constantly, when I have my key in the 2nd, or ON position. I will test it on Friday when I have a long drive home so that I don't have to deal with the reset ECU in stop and go because my fresh reset ECU is annoying, auto or manual.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

Randy,

I also have some sort of a whirring noise that goes away when I depress the clutch pedal. I only really notice in when the car is stopped. It started when I replaced the clutch about 4 years ago. I always assumed that the new throw out bearing was "noisier" than the old one. In 4 years, the noise has not gotten any louder, and has not caused me any problems.

I would like to see your car after the swap, and listen to your whirring noise. let me know when we might get together.

Adam

RLaoFD

iTrader: (6)

Hey Adam!

Would you be free sometime next week? I am driving up north to go home this weekend so I won't be available. Maybe you can provide more insight on this noise because it's hard to describe to the other forum members online. Plus I haven't checked out your car since you've told me about the changes you were doing. See you soon.

RLaoFD

iTrader: (6)

Problem #2 is solved.

Please keep the insight coming!

Farkel Jr.

iTrader: (10)

A little off-topic but I saw you a couple weeks ago around the Campus market area in Poly :P

Good luck with your troubleshooting though

RLaoFD

iTrader: (6)

^ yeah i have class in Manufacturing- 36 or something like that. It's in the middle of no where, hence the Campus Market side

and thanks. I'm confident that this will be sorted out soon.

RotaryBuddha

iTrader: (4)

I had the same problem. The hold light would blink, I just removed the automatic shifter computer. And it stopped blinking. I have a auto-to-manual swap on my car as well. But I have a PFC. The computer looks like this http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...a/DSCF2791.jpg

RLaoFD

iTrader: (6)

Cool, because I couldn't get it to stop blinking... Where is that computer exactly?

Thanks

ObliqueFD

iTrader: (32)

Right behind the ECU that is hidden behind the passenger kick panel.