putting engine back together...got some questions
#1
putting engine back together...got some questions
ok well...i was putting together my engine and got stuck with plugs im not 100% sure about...took off all the emissions and non-seq
#1 ???
#2 just go on that bolt for the rack?
#3 ground on the engine hook on uim?
#4 ???
#5 ???
#6 temp sensor on uim?
#7 is this correct? fuel temp sensor thing?
#8 are the plugs on the right ones? (white on top?)
#9 ???
#10 ???
#11 EGR plug?
#12 sensor on thermostat housing?
#13 - #15 im just wondering if i can remove all this and weld everything closed since im going to be running an aftermarket bov on the intercooler piping
#16 ???
vac chamber - do i need this anymore?
thanks in advance for the help! ^_^
#1 ???
#2 just go on that bolt for the rack?
#3 ground on the engine hook on uim?
#4 ???
#5 ???
#6 temp sensor on uim?
#7 is this correct? fuel temp sensor thing?
#8 are the plugs on the right ones? (white on top?)
#9 ???
#10 ???
#11 EGR plug?
#12 sensor on thermostat housing?
#13 - #15 im just wondering if i can remove all this and weld everything closed since im going to be running an aftermarket bov on the intercooler piping
#16 ???
vac chamber - do i need this anymore?
thanks in advance for the help! ^_^
#2
also i found these 2 diagrams so im guessing i can just do like the first one...and get rid of the wastegate control solinoid and turbo precontrol solinoid right?
and what am i doing to the turbo precontrol actuator? do i just pull the arm and weld it open like that? then cap off the lines to it?
#1
#2
and what am i doing to the turbo precontrol actuator? do i just pull the arm and weld it open like that? then cap off the lines to it?
#1
#2
#5
Most of the connectors only fit in one place.
#1 looks like its for the purge control solnoid, hard to tell from the angle you took the pic at.
#2 is just a ground and it goes on one of the 12mm bolts that hold the solnoid rack down
#3 is a ground and goes to one of the bolts holding the engine hanger to the uim
#4 should be double throttle if its orange on the inside
#5 should be air intake tempo sensor
#6 there should be 2 just like it, the one with the white dot goes on the right solnoid when facing the engine looking from the front of the car.
#7 there are 2 just like it, the longer wire one goes to the fuel rail the other one goes on the coolant sensor on the back of the thermostat cover.
#8 looks correct
#10 is airpump
#11 is egr and is not used if your car is a 93
#12 goes down by the ac compressor
#13 you could eliminate it and block the nipple 15 if you want to change the bov
#14 remove the butterfly for non-sequential
#16 goes to the small coolant sensor under the oil filter, NOT the big oil pressure sender
#1 looks like its for the purge control solnoid, hard to tell from the angle you took the pic at.
#2 is just a ground and it goes on one of the 12mm bolts that hold the solnoid rack down
#3 is a ground and goes to one of the bolts holding the engine hanger to the uim
#4 should be double throttle if its orange on the inside
#5 should be air intake tempo sensor
#6 there should be 2 just like it, the one with the white dot goes on the right solnoid when facing the engine looking from the front of the car.
#7 there are 2 just like it, the longer wire one goes to the fuel rail the other one goes on the coolant sensor on the back of the thermostat cover.
#8 looks correct
#10 is airpump
#11 is egr and is not used if your car is a 93
#12 goes down by the ac compressor
#13 you could eliminate it and block the nipple 15 if you want to change the bov
#14 remove the butterfly for non-sequential
#16 goes to the small coolant sensor under the oil filter, NOT the big oil pressure sender
#7
ooo thanks a lot! and i found what that broken connector on my starter/alt harness connected to it goes to a big plug on the main harness that is like square with 4 lil round connectors inside it
anyone know about the diagrams?
anyone know about the diagrams?
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#8
Recovering Milkaholic
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 8,206
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From: Budds Creek, Maryland
Yes remove the pre control. Then either tack weld the flapper open or cut it off from the manifold. You can just cap the vacum lines. You run your boost control into the wategate actuator and cap the far side of the actuator off.
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trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
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07-01-23 04:40 PM