After my FFR Cobra Kit car is finished with my father, I am planning on starting my own RX-7 build as funds allow. I have been doing some heavy research and analyzing other people's projects and have come up with a "staged" project for myself. The plan starts out with mostly reliability mods then transitions into a single turbo kit. This is what I have planned out so far. The prices that are listed are the cheapest prices that I have been able to find through my own research. If anyone would like to know the source of the part then just go ahead and ask. I am also going to be doing this on a stock ported motor with no internal upgrades (maybe a rebuild if necessary). I would like anyone and everyone to make any suggestions on different parts, different orders, lower prices, etc. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks.

Stage 1:
-Blitz Cooling Performer $120.00
-Defi-Link Meter BF (White) Boost gauge $200.00
-Defi-Link Meter BF (White) Water Temp Gauge $180.00
-Defi-Link Control Unit II $103.00

Stage 2:
-Hose Techniques SVH Kit (Blue) $118.00

Stage 3:
-Blitz DTT DCII Turbo Timer $99.99

Stage 4:
-Fluidyne Aluminum Radiator $415.00
-Aluminum Air Separator Tank w/ Leveler Cap $156.99
-Taylor Battery Relocation Kit $49.95
-Circuit breaker, grommets, etc. ~$50.00

Stage 5:
-A-Spec 450R Fuel System Kit $869.00
-A'PEXi Power FC w/ Commander $980.00
-Datalogit Software $350.00

Stage 6:
-HKS Carbon-Ti Catback Exhaust System $464.10

Stage 7:
-A-Spec Tuning GT35RS Turbo Kit w/ 1.00 rear housing, ceramic coated exhaust housing, Tial 50mm W/G, and an I/C kit. ????
-Innovative Motorsports LC-1 Lambda Cable w/ Sensor $199.99

This is where I am at as of right now. I will also add a midpipe and then maybe some exterior modifications. I also have to find a gauge pod for the two gauges that I am purhasing. Feel free to make any suggestions. Thank you for your time.

Kevin

 

Tubo timers are a waste of money.

 

You think so? I'd rather have a turbo timer running than me sitting for a minute to wait around. Thanks for the quick reply though. Any other thoughts?

 

You dont need to sit around and wait. Just dont boost at all and drive real easy for the last few miles before you shut it off. Make sure its down to regular operating temp. Thats better for the car than having it idle.

I have a turbo timer, and its always turned off. I think I have used it once.

 

Hmm, that is a simple substitution. Maybe I don't need a turbo timer. Thanks for the advice.

 

My comments:

Stage 1:
-Blitz Cooling Performer $120.00 -- What is this? You don't need it!
-Defi-Link Meter BF (White) Boost gauge $200.00
-Defi-Link Meter BF (White) Water Temp Gauge $180.00
-Defi-Link Control Unit II $103.00

I strongly recommend one of flyrx7's gauge pods: http://hometown.aol.com/flyrx7/Rx7-Gauge-Pod.html

In the future, I would add an oil temp gauge, or perhaps a fuel pressure or exhaust temp gauge.

Stage 2:

-Hose Techniques SVH Kit (Blue) $118.00 -- Way overpriced and not necessary unless you have turbo control problems. In any case, I certainly wouldn't bother if you are planning to go single turbo.

Stage 3:
-Blitz DTT DCII Turbo Timer $99.99 -- Definitely a waste of money!

Stage 4:
-Fluidyne Aluminum Radiator $415.00 -- Not necessary unless your OEM radiator is failing.
-Aluminum Air Separator Tank w/ Leveler Cap $156.99 -- Move to Stage 1.
-Taylor Battery Relocation Kit $49.95
-Circuit breaker, grommets, etc. ~$50.00

Stage 5:
-A-Spec 450R Fuel System Kit $869.00 -- Not necessary until you are running higher boost.
-A'PEXi Power FC w/ Commander $980.00
-Datalogit Software $350.00

Stage 6:
-HKS Carbon-Ti Catback Exhaust System $464.10

Stage 7:
-A-Spec Tuning GT35RS Turbo Kit w/ 1.00 rear housing, ceramic coated exhaust housing, Tial 50mm W/G, and an I/C kit. ???? -- You will need a LOT more than just this. Here's a write-up of what's involved: http://www.negative-camber.org/crispyrx7/gt35rpage1.htm
-Innovative Motorsports LC-1 Lambda Cable w/ Sensor $199.99

The order of several of your items would cause you a lot more work...it would be best to upgrade the fuel system at the same time as going single turbo, for example. I think you need to keep reading up a little bit.

You also have not addressed any suspension or wheel/tire mods to handle a 400 rwhp beast. Nor an upgraded clutch.

There are also many maintenance items that will need to be addressed. Also, are you doing all of the labor yourself?

 

Thank you Rynberg! These are the kind of suggestions I was looking for. Turbo timer is definately out then, no need for it. Now I am going to throw my excuses back at you for you to comment again. The Blitx cooling Performer is there so i have an easy place to mount the Water temp sensor for the gauge. It is a lot for just a hose and it does seem like a waste. Finally! I now have a link to Frank. Thanks so much, I was looking for his website. I have seen his work. I think I get a tri-pod and fill it up soon. The AST will be in Stage 1. The Aluminum Radiator and the hose kit are thee because they are some strongly suggested parts. The hose kit replace all of the brittle stock hoses and the radiator is to improve cooling efficiency. I think I will leave those in there. The fuel kit is to prepare for the turbo kit. I figured why not upgrade it so I can turn up the boost on the kit? I had come across this page before but just got so confused. Thats's a lot of additional parts to buy. Also, where should a Blitz boost controller be added in?

 

$120 for a hose adapter with a fitting? Eesh. Just tap into the thermostat housing.

But if you are going single, you will end up ripping out almost ALL of those hoses! The hose job is a bitch, quite frankly, and there is no need to go through it if you don't have to!

Like I said, you will want to install them at the same time to save on a bit of labor.

The PFC can control boost acceptably well until you go single turbo. Install a boost controller at that time.

 

Thanks again for your wonderful words I will add in the Boost Controller too. I guess I will wait until i am installing the turbo kit to change any remaining hoses to the silicon hoses. Ya, the radiator hose is out also. taping into the water pump housing will be a lot of work though, requiring the removal of the pump but I do have a tap and dye set so I might as well. Thanks again for your suggestions. Any more are welcome!

 

Ohh, another reason I wanted to add the fuel kit in at that time was so that when I added the exhaust, I could tune for it in the Power FC and also to prepare for the turbo kit. IDK if I want to istall the turbo kit myself looking at that page on his installation. I do live near Pettit Racing, think they'll install it?

 

Ryberg has definately steered you in the right direction and given great advice. And I'll add my 2 cents:

If you feel like drilling a hole and tapping the hole for a thermo-sensor is alot of work, then PLEASE!!! Scrap stages one thorugh whatever... In order to pull off a successful single turbo swap, there will be much blood, sweat and tears involved - tapping a small hole is the LEAST of your troubles.


FYI - you will not need to tap the water pump housing for anything whatsoever. You will need to tap the filler neck. Check here: http://robrobinette.com/water_temp_gauge.htm

However, one thing to consider is the fact that the Power FC you talked about adding will monitor the coolant temp via the factory sensor, provided you have the Commander hand-held unit.

Anyway, back to the single turbo issue. Ask yourself why you want to really go that route. To simplify things??? To add big power??? To be one of "them single turbo guys??"

As a single turbo guy myself, I'm telling you, you should reconsider, especially after hearing your coolant temp senor comments. A well sorted twin turbo RX-7 will be the most fun you can have on four wheels this side of an Enzo. Seriously!


From the sounds of it, your FD is in good running condition - there is really no reason to fkcu up a good thing!! Add a boost gauge. Add a downpipe. Add the aluminum AST. Make sure your coolant system is up to par, perhaps changing coolant hoses [especially the two turbo hoses] and adding a bigger aluminum radiator.. After driving the car with this configuration for some time, if you can honestly tell me you are bored with the car, and need more excitement, THEN come back and start to talk more mods.

I'm telling you that a proper single turbo swap is a full commintment to this car. Manifold. Turbo. Intercooler. Piping. Hoses. Intake. Clutch. BOV. Battery relocation. Fuel system. Various Gauges. Boost controler. ECU. Tuning.

Learn about the car - make sure it is running in TIP-TOP shape as is. Move on from there.

I'm sorry, but when someone lists a frikking Blitz cooling performer as a stage one mod.... You are only in for a world of trouble..


Welcome to the world of 3rd gen RX-7s!

 

The car I bought had a turbo timer in it. At first I thought I'd remove it, but now I plan on rewiring it to run the water pump (electric) and fans after I shut off my car.

 

busy13b- Thanks for your suggestions. I'm just a lazy a** so me saying that removing the water pump will be dificult is my personality talking. Also, as I stated in my first post, I don't have an RX-7 yet, but I plan to. I am definately going single turbo though, knowing that my RWHP goals cannot be reached with the stock twins. I do however, have to step back and rethink my approach to upgrading the car. This is great that I posted on here :-). Thanks again for your help. Anymore suggestions are welcomed.

 

This car and being a lazy *** is a bad combination. This car is demanding in the labor department and if you have a problem getting motivated, then have fun . Its a neverending story. Maintanence and more maintanence, even if it runs good, you will still be up under the hood all the time checking. That's part of the afair. I am glad Rynberg answered all the questions. Like half of the **** you listed is unneccesary. My advice would be to take your time modify the car gradually, learn about what mods your doing and how they will work together. Then decide. You will have made a much more informed decision and a far less costly one. I like the statement "determine what you want this car to be and what is most important to you. speed, reliabilty, looks, all of the above" then modify it accordingly. Good luck.

 

You guys are ball busters. Sonix- What else is unecessary? Everytime I post I make myself look worse and worse. Thanks for all of the suggestions. This is a learning process which I am ready for. I know that RX-7 are definately not known for reliability and I will have to work to keep it as my daily driver.

 

I decided that I am going to stick with the stock twins because a single turbo is just not for me. Too expensive. might be something that I look into later though.

 

^^smart decision. or just buy a car that has already been properly setup with a single turbo.

 

Nah, I want a stock RX-7. I don't want a car that has a turbo kit installed by someone I don't know, I would only consider it if it were installed by a good shop.

 

Pettit racing is WONDERFUL. I would trust them with my car anytime. If you want a turbo kid installed, go to them, they are very reputable and dont charge and arm and leg. Well they do, because its a rotary shop, but they are fair.

 

Don't forget a downpipe. I'd say upgrade the downpipe before you install a new radiator, unless you've got cooling problems.

I'd mod in the following order:


Maintenance First!!! Oil change, coolant flush, fuel filter, spark plugs, new tires, new belts & hoses as needed, fix any other problems, especially oil leaks.

Gauges (air & water. Oil if you plan to race the car)
Fix any overheating or boost issues shown by the new gauges.

Downpipe.
AST replacement or removal.

PowerFC and wideband O2 sensor, tuned by a professional.

Battery replacement and/or relocation. Look into the PC680 (15lbs and small packaging) as a replacement rather than relocating a big heavy battery. Mine has been fine for 6 months now.

-s-