hey leave my jersey people alone, cant blame him for being cultured...i mean you didnt give him a chance..at least one guy was nice enough to answer his questions..thats after all what he asked for. lol

 

Fo real do, I don't be thinkin err e body be actin like dis co all tow up. May be it be da fan belt dat be actin up. Don't hate cause he got da phat ride yo.

 

Car was probably fine until he found it...

 

any way we can save this kid the embaressment and chop up this thread of his????

 

Probably more people would help, if they didn't have to struggle reading his posts.

When asking for free help, don't turn off people by typing like a 12 year old Ebonics Retard. When you type ****, that is hard to read because it is misspelled, people stop reading your posts, and won't respond.

Grow up. Try and show some respect from people you want help from.

 

"Ebonics Retard"?

I was going to say "ghetto fabulous" but I like your description better.

 

By acting as if you're making this a test, and that you're fit to judge us, comes off pretty arrogant. When you bought your car you didn't buy tech support from this forum, so ask nicely, and ask questions that haven't been answered 100 times already. Instead of getting responses from the experts, you're just lucky to get my thoughts.

Don't know myself. I would pull the console and check what's there - maybe a previous person screwed up the connectors. It's a little tight getting those plugs in, so a bent pin is very possible.

Change the fuel filter, now. I can't say offhand what the next step would be.

Broken engine mount, cracked powerplant frame, broken diff mounts are possible. Probably the engine mount - looking at a few hundred for the mounts alone. You could add an engine torque brace, and see a huge improvement, but it would only mask the problem and abuse the other mounts more.

You need to install a boost gauge and read the pattern. That's how to know what your turbos are doing. Without the gauge (even temporarily) installed you're making it hard. Use the capped nipple on the extension manifold that points toward the passenger front wheelwell.

Buy an 18" breaker bar, a dead-blow (sand) mallet, and PB blaster penetrating oil. That combination has loosened a lot of SOB parts. Make SURE you're not loosening the bolts that hold the caliper together - only the ones holding the caliper assy in place. You should replace the pads, too or else they'll transcribe the uneven wear onto the new rotors.

As a PS: we take the time here to make our posts readable. We use the search tool, and expect that threads be readable and use correctly spelled words so that we can find them. It takes a lot of each person's time to answer your questions; the least you can do is make it readable and clear. Spend some time searching and reading on the subject we're talking about, and you'll quickly figure out what makes posts useful and readable.

Dave

 

LOL

 

where in jersey are you?

 

damn first it was the sT33TrACERz kid and now its this guy. This has got to be somebody playing a joke...

 

Ouch!!

For #5, you can also just drill those damn screws. IF you replace them, use LOTS of anti-seize. Or just don't replace them (they aren't stricly necessary, and a PITA to boot!)

 

I think this just about sums it up for the thread. You are to lazy to type, so we are to lazy to help.

The members of the rx7club are going to be forced to be lazy and not help you... thread locked.

But on a side note. You replied in this thread https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...95#post3030995 asking for more mechanics in NJ... You should feel lucky to have so many so close by.