Primary Air Bleeds Replace?
#1
Primary Air Bleeds Replace?
Hi Everyone,
I have spent the last few hours searching and I can not seem to find a definitive answer on this.
I have pulled my injectors for cleaning and balancing I am going to order new insulators ect but I have noticed that the primary air bleeds do not have a serviceable o-ring/grommet on the top (where the fuel rail makes contact with the air bleed) are the air bleeds something that should be changed when servicing the primaries? I pulled one out and the rubber on the top seems pretty hard.
For the record these are not the insulators N3A1-13-257, the rubber seems to be part of the air bleed.
Thanks
Mike
I have spent the last few hours searching and I can not seem to find a definitive answer on this.
I have pulled my injectors for cleaning and balancing I am going to order new insulators ect but I have noticed that the primary air bleeds do not have a serviceable o-ring/grommet on the top (where the fuel rail makes contact with the air bleed) are the air bleeds something that should be changed when servicing the primaries? I pulled one out and the rubber on the top seems pretty hard.
For the record these are not the insulators N3A1-13-257, the rubber seems to be part of the air bleed.
Thanks
Mike
#2
Yes I definitely recommend replacing the air bleed sockets. The plastic gets brittle and can fall into and hurt the motor. At over $30 each, a lot of so called "builders" reuse them or remove them entirely. Can't say how many cars I've worked on that had these hacked or missing entirely. Getting them out cat be tricky on the car. I use a sharp hooked pick to pull them out. Its a good idea to have a shop vac handy in case one breaks. Empty the vacuum prior to make sure you get the entire air bleed socket out. Or better yet go with a modern injector that doesn't need the air bleed socket to seal and help atomize the fuel.
#3
Thanks Ihor!
I will replace them, peace of mind and not that expensive. I would change to different injectors but the mods I have now and will have in the near future stock should be fine be fine.
Thanks again
I will replace them, peace of mind and not that expensive. I would change to different injectors but the mods I have now and will have in the near future stock should be fine be fine.
Thanks again
#4
#5
Finally got my injectors back, company I was dealing with was having a hard time sourcing a Mazda side feed block.. anyway instead of starting a new thread here is a question.
One of my primaries had a cracked pintle cap so they replaced it with a different one and also used a fiber looking washer to make up the difference to the lower o-ring, is this going to work?
I am pretty sure that it will but a bit of reassurance is always good.
Thanks everyone
One of my primaries had a cracked pintle cap so they replaced it with a different one and also used a fiber looking washer to make up the difference to the lower o-ring, is this going to work?
I am pretty sure that it will but a bit of reassurance is always good.
Thanks everyone
#6
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 4,834
Likes: 318
From: Indiana
I am not even sure it will seat properly in the rail. You might want to install it in the rail, then remove it and see if anything is deformed.
New primary injectors are available at RockAuto for $116 ea
New primary injectors are available at RockAuto for $116 ea
#7
Yep it doesn't seat in the rail, the lip on the pintle cap is to close to the tip of the injector. I am going to try to modify it and see if it leaks I will keep you all posted.
Trending Topics
#8
so after removing the yellow pintle cap and sanding the lip off (and cleaning the crap out of it) i reinstalled it, it seated in the rail perfectly. I did the leak test per the FSM and no leaks, I tried the leak test 3 times with no leaks or fuel smell. in the process of putting the secondary air bleeds back in I broke the OMP line to the rear housing, right at the banjo so another week before I can start it.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post