Andrew Harper

While winding the window back up on my 1996 car the window stopped about once inch short of shutting.

I removed the door trim and checked the window switch with a voltmeter and troubleshooting guide.

Decided to change the switch assembly as 12v was going in but nothing was coming out of the connections.

I have now installed the new switch but still no power to the windows.

The switch is now working but there is no response from the window motors.

Checked fuses, connections, wires (no damage), I also have a good earth.

If you unplug the motor plug on the door and take a reading of the connector with the window switch up you measure 12v, with the plug connected you get nothing!

If one window motor goes do both the windows stop working?

Has anyone had this problem?

Street King

I have the same problem right now. Both my window switches are new but I think mr driver's side went bad, thats what every one else says to me. No matter if the passanger switch still works it wont if the drivers side has a problem. Which window are you talking about. I did the same thing with the volt meter and have what your getting. Power to the damn motor but nothing is working. Only my driver side window works.

Pumped

check the harness between the body to the door.
that was the fault on my car.

BlackR1

Andrew, hwo much did you pay for your switch assembly and where did you get it?

Andrew Harper

Managed to sort the problem, the connecting block between the door and chassis was'nt making good contact.

I Find out by trying the following....(If your gonna copy this please be careful!)

Unplugging it first I attached the battery, directly to the motor connector in the door.

The battery should wind the window up or down (depending on which way the points are connected).

Knowing that the window motor now works I then plugged the motor back into the wiring loom and then connected the same battery Positive supply into the Blue/white wire connector in the windows switch connector and tried the switches. Both switches worked the windows (so the problem must between the fusebox and door).

Tried a continuation test from the fuse connection and the window switch block in the door and recieved eratic readings.

When I moved the connections in the door to chassis plug it restored the voltage!

Now I just have to make sure it doesn't happen again.....

The switch assembly I simply bought from a Mazda dealer here in the UK. I would imagine dealers in the US should be able to help. The only problem I find is that no parts for the RX7 are kept in the country, so it takes about 5 days to get here.

The price is around £85-00 ($127-00?).

Have you tried a breakers yard?

Street King

I just found mine out yesterday fidling with the wires that go through the driver door into the the firewall. Now it works so I guess thats my problem either a kinked wire or a bad ground. Thanx pumped I was getting real annoyed with this damn window. Now I can ride with out having to have the a/c on!!