I eliminated my power steering from approximately 4,000 miles on and had no problems whatsoever, and I know that many others, including Brian Richards (Mostly Mazda/M2 Performance) and Kevin Wyum (One Lap, monster twins, etc.) have also eliminated the pump and either plugged the rack or just left it open. I have a fluid recirculation hose currently, shown below, that Trev Dagley and I thought up in '97. You can now get the same thing, with stainless braided hose, from Crooked Willow, if you're interested.



Since I've heard that this not the most reliable way of converting to full time manual steering, since there are questions about the strength of the internals without power assist, and because I have a clearance issue with the fluid line along the top of the rack to remedy, I've been doing some research, and come up with a couple ideas.

1) Replace the FD power rack with a manual rack from an FC. I've heard that this is a direct replacement, but can anyone confirm that? I even found a web site last night (but of course, can't relocate it today) that listed this as a mod on a track-only car. I haven't followed up with the owner(s) of the site yet.

Benefit: True manual rack, no worries about longevity or strength
Benefit: Eliminate fluid recirculation hose requirement
Benefit: Eliminate rack lines along top of steering rack
Detriment: Possibly heavier than FD model?
Detriment: Where do I get a new one? CAN I get a new one?

2) Aftermarket steering rack, possibly "Mustang II" style, like the Pro Stock/Pro Street guys use.

Benefit: True manual rack
Benefit: Eliminate fluid lines
Benefit: Looks cool... score big with the chicks
Detriment: Possibly expensive
Detriment: Would require redesign of the mounting system

Any other ideas?

For example...



Flaming River's quick ratio (15:1) manual steering rack, 3.33 turns lock to lock - $270. Supposed to be very light weight, not that our stock racks are heavy.

 

Jim,

One thing you didn't write about the manual FC rack... I'm absolutely POSITIVE that the manual FC rack is slower than the power FC rack, which in turn (I'm not positive about this part) is slower than the FD rack.

Tech info I'm guessing at (from foggy memory), I think the manual FC rack has a ratio around 24:1, the power FC rack is 16:1 and the FD rack is 14:1.

Another thought, what about a Miata rack? Should be similar in size, maybe the tie rods are a different length and you can use your tie rod ends on a manual Miata rack.

Don't know anything about Mustang II stuff, might even be embarrassed to have parts from one of those cars on my car. I guess unless it is from a Mustang II Corbra, LOL...

Hope you got something from that crap...

Jeff

 

I've "heard" of the Miata rack working in an FD. I think SCC might have mentioned it in one their write-ups? I thought the steering was exteremly heavy when I removed the belt from car. Does the loop-back hose help at low-speed? I like the 30 and up feeling, but not 30 and down.

 

Manual rack on FC is 20.3:1 ratio, 3.5 turns to lock, w/ power assist it's 15.2:1, 2.7 tunes to lock.

 

The main drive behind this, beyond improving the reliability of the steering rack by eliminating possible weak links inherent in a "converted" power rack, is to improve clearance with the oil pan. As can be seen below, the pan is very close to the top rack fitting...





There are two solutions:

1) Eliminate the line, which will probably compromise the "converted" rack's lubrication recirculation, and have an unknown effect on the "feel" of the rack, or...

2) Knock a dent in the oil pan.

Since I have a $300 Canton Racing road racing oil pan, I'm not keen on knocking a dent in it, not to mention the fact that my 396 stroker requires more clearance for the crankshaft in the front than a stock LT1 crankshaft's throw requires. I'd rather replace the rack with a true manual rack, aftermarket if necessary.