I'm looking for some up-to date setups that are working well.

My battery is in the back hatch, and I plan to use my stock front windshield washer reservoir as the tank, and have the pump mounted between the front bumper and rebar on a custom bracket. I am sourcing power from the engine bay positive block. Everything is already wired and installed, but I had to send the pump back for repair--it had sit on a shelf for too long and refused to prime.

I thing I learned, the pump can be primed while sitting on a bench, ie doesnt need to be operating while you force water through. It seems that in some cases using compressed air is the only way the pump will prime if it was sitting for awhile as mine had been.

I know the pump will work 'better' if mounted below the tank so gravity can work it's magic. How important is this? How many have the pump mounted above the tank?

I have considered getting a rear wiper tank (i have an R1) and using that, along with mounting the pump down near the spare.

I have an aquamist (instead of cooling mist) setup, doubt it matters.

I also plan to mix 50/50 distilled water and methanol.

Any input/feedback/etc welcome

 

Rich, I am currently running 50/50 water/methanol with a tank in the spare tire well as well as the pump. Remember the tank can't be aluminum if you plan to run methanol.

I'm busy losing money in Vegas right now but will post some pics when I get back in town on Sunday.

Bob

 

would love to see more of this set up too...

 

did you get the 99spec parts i sent

 

I have my tank (2.5qt) mounted where the stock battery would normally go. My control switch and relay are mounted back by the brake MC in the corner. I have a green operation LED and a red low-level LSD on the steering column under by boost controller and wideband. My pump is ziptied under the front radiator "support", under and behind the hood latch. With an FMIC and relocated radiator, there's a lot of unused space there. My tank sits about 6" lower than my pump, but Ive had no problems at all priming it...I test it every now and then with the IC piping off to verify that it still works okay. My nozzle is right above the radiator in the IC pipe. I have the 90* injector fitting inside there, so it fires the spray with the direction of air travel.

I'm using a single stage coolingmist kit.

 

In terms of mounting the pump, its critical in your case you mount the pump below the tank. Aquamist pumps will be rendered dead within 30 seconds if you run out of water. If it cant prime, you can kiss you pump good bye and an aquamist pump costs as much as an entire water injection system.

The aquamist system is an absolute work of art, the reliability of the pump is is biggest failure. Because our pumps are diaphragm pumps they are self priming, can be mounted in any position and run dry all day long.

I have nothing but respect for aquamist, they build a nice setup. Im sure you will be happy with it. Just dont let it run dry.

 

my 100% methanol system is coming together.

i run a Jaz 4 gallon fuel cell located in the pass side rear of the spare wheel well. i removed the center tower to lower the tank 3 additional inches.

my pump locates on the rear crossmember under the car. since my battery is in the pass package area i have a very short wire to the pump. the pump is below the fuel cell.


the air breather for the fuel cell runs back behind the fd plastic (everywhere plastic) and vents at the gas filler door, thus being not visable.

my three controller components are in the rear package drivers side w the controller leds on the dash.

i will be running dual nozzles located in my elbow.

once everything is situated, i measure hose lengths (all braided stainless) and Julio will make them and it will be showtime.

i run Julio Don's Alkycontrol system.

howard coleman

 

Rich here is mine...

I mounted the tank and pump in the spare tire well. With my 99 spec brakes the stock spare is no longer usable. Fortunately my insurance has towing on it

The tank is actually a lawnmower tank that I found at a lawn mover specific part store...I had to hunt to find something low profile enough. I did have to tap a fitting that is 90 degrees to get it to clear better. The tank is a one gallon tank.

**however, now that I am running 50:50 water/methanol I guess I need to vent the cap??? Is there a little gas cap that I can buy with a vent tube?

To get the car to hopefully pass spec (for autox and HPDE) I had them weld brackets to the trunk. (yes you have to drop the fuel tank to be safe!!! That was fun BTW)The tank is bolted in. The pump is also. For the pump I had him weld bolts in that fed thru the rubber mounting holes on the pump and then just put a washer and nut on to hold it in place.

I plan on putting some insulation and sound deadening around it ala Max Cooper, but right now I left it open to let it run for a bit to toubleshoot and make sure it doesn't leak.



Here I mounted the on/off switch and pump indicator light. I FUBAR'd the light and mounted it too low. I can't see it as the steering wheel blocks it from view when driving. I might move this later or hook another light in parallel somewhere on the dash cluster or next to my HUD.



here is the location for the primary injector and solenoid. The boost switches are located by my cruise. I found a perfect spot for it.



here is the location for the secondary injector that comes on at 10psi or so. Also I mounted the solenoid on the underside of the front crossmember...you can barely see it in the second pic.





Right now I'm debating David's new controller. It would simplify things alot, but it would be a PITA to remove the stuff that I already put in. Also, for what I want, I'm not sure of the gains....

Finally, that injector location on the greddy elbow could have been easier. The guy I had do it did an admirable job....but it would have been easier to mount it underneath the elbow. Nice flat spot. Just needed a 90degree injector.

Bob

 

I spoke to the tech today that is sending me my repaired and primed pump, and he gave me some interesting info.

When I mentioned the power/boost level I was at, he recommended using a high-powered windshield washer pump along some a diode in order to help give the aquamist more juice. He went on to say that with the amount of air my engine is flowing I definitely needed more water volume than the pump was going to give me.

Now, I'll be forthcoming, and say there is no way I am a pump/diode/flux capacitor expert. Can anyone elaborate on this?

Rich

 

I in no way would ever dis-respect a product like AQUAMIST. However, I would question the qualifications of the TECH you spoke to. If your tech is right, I think its incredibly sad you spend $$$$ for a methanol/water injection system and they ask you to use a windshield washer pump with it to give it enough power. Thats just crazy.

When you order a kit, you should get a kit that works regardless of your power level, infact when you order it, they should get that information.

Again, I would strongly suggest talking to ANOTHER tech as I think the information you received is not correct, at least I hope thats the case.

Typically a pump for methanol/water injection is a certain PSI. I BELIEVE the standard aquamist is 80 psi. Now assume you run 25 PSI, your pump has to overcome that, which in turn makes your pump a 55 PSI pump. (AGAIN, I dont know for sure what the PSI rating of the AQUAMIST is, but I think its 80 or 100)

Hope that helps, but Im sure it doesn't.





David

 

I have seen pics of apneablue setup on another thread that uses the stock jack location for the pump, and put his tank in one of the storage bins behind the seat. It seemed like a good location to me, but what is the easiest way to route the tubing from the pump in that location to the engine bay?

dubulup has his pump mounted in the trunk but not hidden, just on top. I can't remember, but I think his tank is right next to his pump.

I would like to hear from either of those guys to see if they would change anything in their setup now that they have used it for a while.

I love the idea of using the spare tire location, very innovative, but I personally would worry about being stranded everytime I drove my car, even though it isn't driven very much.

I am going to try and use the rear windshield washer resovoir as the tank, and mount the pump in the stock jack location, but like you, rich, I am concerned about keeping the pump lower than the resovoir, even though it is a coolingmist pump, the laws of gravity would still assist the pump. I just don't know if the jack bin is lower than the rear washer resovoir, although it appears to be slightly lower.

Although this doesn't help much, from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diode :

"In electronics, a diode is a component that restricts the direction of movement of charge carriers. It allows an electric current to flow in one direction, but essentially blocks it in the opposite direction. Thus the diode can be thought of as an electronic version of a check valve."

Don't ask me how to apply it in your situation, I don't know either.

Anybody know what the capacity of the rear windshield washer resovoir is?

 

I wouldn't use the rear windshield washer reservoir. It's too small. I can take a pic of it for you if you want, but it seriously only looks to be 2 quarts, at most.

 

Yeah, I was kinda worried about that. I was looking at it last night. It seems like there would be a way to replace the rear resovoir tank with a larger one, but the problem that has to be addressed is finding a tank that has an angled filler neck like the stock one, and small enough to fit through the hole on the plastic shroud covering it. Perhaps the stock one can be modified somehow to make it a larger capacity. Any ideas anyone?

 

a3dcadman is doing it...

check the end of this thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...&page=20&pp=15

 

The UK spec rear washer bottle is that size as standard, holds over a gallon from memory.

 

Really, that is fantastic! That would save me a lot of trouble of adding a second resovoir and running dual resovoirs. I was in the process of working on it last night and did some redneck engineering involving cupholders and a second resovoir, but if it truly does hold a gallon or more, I will be finding a dealership in the UK and ordering a replacement resovoir.

Is there anybody that can confirm the capacity of the UK spec rear resovoir, and if it can be swapped with the A spec?

Thanks,
Dave

PS- I hope you don't think I am hijacking the thread, I think it is pertinent to the topic.

 

I'll try to get a pic of one but it definitely fits j-spec fd's, can't see why it wouldn't fit a US spec one. Price is around £100 from a dealer, that's about $175 at current rates, you may be able to get 17.5% off if it's for export though (VAT, the equivalent of Sales Tax).

 

Best I can do for the moment but this is a page from the UK parts list. Shows the size of the bottle and the part number. Maybe Ray at Malloy Mazda can do something with it?

 

hmmm... thats for the head light washers.....

 

and the windshield... and the rear screen...

 

Is that a dealer only RX7 electronic parts catalog ?

If not, how can I get one . . .

:-) neil

 

Holy thread resurrection, Batman! (Though not as impressive as your 2003 hit on the same topic.)

There was a recent thread on this large rear tank. You can order it in the US if you are a member of the Mazda Motorsports program (for $600 or so). The image is probably from a European, Canadian or Australian RX-7 parts catalogue.

 

Copied from the other thread:

Headlight cleaner switch (66-610A) FD01-66-610A, on a superseded dealer disc $AU121.81.

Nozzle (50-715) FD13-51-820 $AU146.67 each!!

Headlight surrounds, (50-741B, 50-741X) FD14-68-406, FD14-68-407.

rear window washer tank FD07-51-810(D,E,F and on the UK cars, G) $AU1303.28

 

Inspiration:

https://www.rx7club.com/auxiliary-injection-173/hfs-5-install-thread-739124/

 

I have something that will both shock and amaze you will post pictures this weekend.

Imagine that 5.5-6L tank becoming 12-15L.....