Plug compatibility between S6, S7 & S8 engine harnesses?
#1
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From: Seattle, Washington
Plug compatibility between S6, S7 & S8 engine harnesses?
I sold off my old wiring harness from my 95' thinking I was going to be purchasing a new one from Ray Crowe.
I have now made the decission to do a complete wire tuck, fuse box, relay & battery relocation.
I will be completely re-looming my engine bay 1 DAMN wire at a time with a mega squirt 0 oxygen barrier wire (new OEM standard)
the only thing I see myself needing is the various clips/plugs needed to attatchs to the accessories & ECU
I'll be shooting wiring for an AEM unit.
Or does anybody have any part numbers for the harness clips/ plugs themselves.
I have now made the decission to do a complete wire tuck, fuse box, relay & battery relocation.
I will be completely re-looming my engine bay 1 DAMN wire at a time with a mega squirt 0 oxygen barrier wire (new OEM standard)
the only thing I see myself needing is the various clips/plugs needed to attatchs to the accessories & ECU
I'll be shooting wiring for an AEM unit.
Or does anybody have any part numbers for the harness clips/ plugs themselves.
#2
Several of the connectors are AMP/Tyco Econoseal II, see www.bmotorsports.com but not all. the ECU plugs themselves are AMP and are similar to what's used in Hondas and other Japanese cars of the era. your best bet is to cut those wires off a spare harness or to buy a patch/extension harness from www.boomslang.us
some random connectors or pins may be here: http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/El...onnectors.html
an AMP catalog is here http://www.tycoelectronics.com/catal...560,17553&I=13
There may be some Sumitomo connectors but I can't be sure. A Sumitomo catalog is here: http://www.sws.co.jp/en/product/wh_parts/connector.html . The problem is, it's hard to get anything in small quantities directly from the manufacturer. You'll have to convince a smaller shop to carry them (like bmotorsports.com). And you really should buy at least a basic crimping connector pin crimping tool (not a radioshack tool) http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pro...roducts_id/362 . You do not want to have 100+ solder joints.
but I have to ask... why are you using a plug & play standalone but deciding to make your car's wiring unrecognizeable from factory? Maybe you should just get a Haltech with a flying lead harness like everybody else who rewires an Rx-7. They do have a universal AEM EMS that can be wired up but it is expensive
some random connectors or pins may be here: http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/El...onnectors.html
an AMP catalog is here http://www.tycoelectronics.com/catal...560,17553&I=13
There may be some Sumitomo connectors but I can't be sure. A Sumitomo catalog is here: http://www.sws.co.jp/en/product/wh_parts/connector.html . The problem is, it's hard to get anything in small quantities directly from the manufacturer. You'll have to convince a smaller shop to carry them (like bmotorsports.com). And you really should buy at least a basic crimping connector pin crimping tool (not a radioshack tool) http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pro...roducts_id/362 . You do not want to have 100+ solder joints.
but I have to ask... why are you using a plug & play standalone but deciding to make your car's wiring unrecognizeable from factory? Maybe you should just get a Haltech with a flying lead harness like everybody else who rewires an Rx-7. They do have a universal AEM EMS that can be wired up but it is expensive
#3
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I'm super stoked on the AEM unit 2 that will be released later this year. I will be watching and learning mostly on the AEM unit, since a friend of mine will be beta testing the #2 unit.
The AEM offers what MOTEC does, for a fraction of the price. Also, I have better resources to learn/ purchase from here locally.
The series 1 unit is available as a plug & play, but I will be moving every electrical junction possible out of the engine bay & into the rear bins.
The tuck is to remove components from heat, allow for better ducting & appearence.
The AEM offers what MOTEC does, for a fraction of the price. Also, I have better resources to learn/ purchase from here locally.
The series 1 unit is available as a plug & play, but I will be moving every electrical junction possible out of the engine bay & into the rear bins.
The tuck is to remove components from heat, allow for better ducting & appearence.
#5
If your goal is reliability, a new OEM engine harness is the way to go, as counterintuitive as it may seem. It will have the best shielding (a HUGE deal on any ECU besides stock and the PFC). Electrical noise on the CAS and you're dead. Also you won't have to worry about a gazillion splices and other connections going bad.
I've just never been a fan of "wire tucks." You just make everything harder to get to and harder to service. If you're worried about heat, ceramic coat the exhaust plumbing.
I've just never been a fan of "wire tucks." You just make everything harder to get to and harder to service. If you're worried about heat, ceramic coat the exhaust plumbing.
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