Hey, i was racing my friends 95 M3- bored and stroked nothing stock left on the engine, anyway, i not sure what boost i was running but i had leaned out on the dyno and i imagine i leaned out again, especially at the top of fourth. Anyway, i'm cruising along, pull to the top of foruth - about 130 or so and then let off the throttle, a few seconds later i look down and see that the tach is at 0, so i try to restart the car, and no luck. I look at my engine temps on the power FC and they are at 82 C, so i don't think i've overheated anything. Nothign seemed wrong at WOT, and I thought everything was fine but the car wouldn't start. I noticed smoke coming from the hood, so i popped it and there wasn't much smoke coming from the hood, so upon investigation i see that the hose that supplies coolant to cool down the throttle body has popped off the nipple. I don't see why this would keep the car from starting and from what i can tell this is the only thing wrong. So i try to start the car again, and it'll turn over but it won't crank. After doing this periodically for about 10 minutes, a buzzer that sounded like it was coming from the motor strated going off until eventually the battery died. I had to get the car towed back to my apartment. I havne't tried starting it again, cuz i wanna see what everyone has to say as to what i should do for diagnosis.

I plan on taking the intake off and making sure i can still spin the compressor side of the turbo, if i chunked an apex seal, would i have problems spinnning hte turbo. Also if i chunked a seal would the car not still run on a single rotor?

Anybody have any diagnosis suggestions.

What really sucks is that i was thinking of selling the car soon, but just took it out to show my buddy how slow his car was

Thanks for anything anyone ahs to offer.

-Rob

 

You most likely overheated and warped the engine even though the PFC water temp was OK at the time.
A fast blow out can give normal water temps if the engine is turned off or dies quickly. This only causes part of the engine to overheat. That line mainly affects the rear rotor.

Take out the plugs and check them for water contamination. Run compresssion tests for both rotors.

 

So this would cause it to not start, i thought even with low compression it'll still start. The plugs i could understand it not starting. How would've water gotten to the plugs? Blown coolant seals? How do i check for water contamination other than replacing them?


Oh and thanks Chuck, I appreciate the info and any more you'd like to offer up.

 

you were racing your fd while you knew it was leaning out? why god why? And what do you mean by "i'm not sure what boost i was running"

I agree with cewrx7r1 that you should pull your sparkplugs and see if you can smell coolant on your plugs. Try getting a compression test done while you got your plugs out. It's not that hard to take your plugs out, even from above; in the last 3 days i must have pulled my plugs about 20-30 times from above. Make sure you have fuel in the tanks (how much does the fuel gauges say? mines says im at 1/4 tank but im actually bone dry, stupid stock gauges suck!!!)

Also, you might wanna check spark by grounding sparkplug and cranking the engine.

 

Trust me, i'm kicking myself about it. THe reason i don't know what boost i'm running is cuz i don't have a boost controller, so basically i have a 10lb wastegate spring so it goes to 10lb quickly and then i can adjust the screw that limits how far the wastegate opens, and depending on how far that screw is screwed in is how much boost creep i have essentially, so usually i have the screw set such that the boost "creeps" up to about 16-17psi at the top of 4th, but when i took it to the track, i knew i wouldn't be using all of fourth, so i turned it up a little so that i would hit 16psi a little quicker in 3rd and get closer to that boost in 4th. Well my buddy drove home from chicago doday with his new m3 and wanted to go right that instant cuz he has riddne in my car and swore his car was faster. Well i said no, cuz i needed to adjust the boost, and he started taunting me, so of course i had to put him in his place, which i did, but it sure as hell wasn't worth the cost of a rebuild. I should've just paid 300 for a profec b a long time ago so that i didn't have this problem, or just invest in a 14lb wastegate spring. So anyway, yes i know i'm a moron, and this is just one more indication that rotaries won't last if you dont' take care of them, and don't belong in the hands of morons like myself.