Please donate one fact bout the FD
#101
Full Member
![](https://www.rx7club.com/images/misc/10_year_icon.png)
Originally posted by JM1FD
The ECU is only capable of activating fan relay no 2 & 4, and the lead is spliced together such that it cannot activate them independantly. Its a relay, so its binary...on or off no other magic speed control pulled out of its ***. Furthermore, this means that there is no "more agressive cooling fan map" since the ECU can't control anything more than relays no 2 & 4. Plus, there's no facility for the ECU to know what the cabin fan speed is, the only wire from the A/C controls to the ECU is at pin 1E. Yes the voltage at that pin varies from 1-3v when the A/C is on, depending on what the fan speed is, but the ECU only looks for it to be less than 3 volts (the Power FC looks for it to be less than 2v, which is where a lot of people's no A/C problems come from), and it only varies when the A/C is on.
The ECU is only capable of activating fan relay no 2 & 4, and the lead is spliced together such that it cannot activate them independantly. Its a relay, so its binary...on or off no other magic speed control pulled out of its ***. Furthermore, this means that there is no "more agressive cooling fan map" since the ECU can't control anything more than relays no 2 & 4. Plus, there's no facility for the ECU to know what the cabin fan speed is, the only wire from the A/C controls to the ECU is at pin 1E. Yes the voltage at that pin varies from 1-3v when the A/C is on, depending on what the fan speed is, but the ECU only looks for it to be less than 3 volts (the Power FC looks for it to be less than 2v, which is where a lot of people's no A/C problems come from), and it only varies when the A/C is on.
I have confirmed that the fans will indeed turn on at a lower temperature when an Electrical Load Condition is present (Blower on 3 & 4, Parking/Head Lighhts). Therefore if can, in that sense, be seen as a more agressive map.
Actual fan speed is determined by the number of fan relays on. Relay 1 (by AC Sensor), Relay 2&4 (by ECU), Relay 3 (by Water Thermo Sw). The number of conditions (1, 2 or 3) determines the speed Low, Med or High. Page F-144 of 94 Service Manual. A scan is included below.
Last edited by Lunar7; 07-19-02 at 11:47 AM.
#104
Originally posted by jspecracer7
That's what I use it for. That and any spare nuts and bolts that may suddenly "appear" within the car
That's what I use it for. That and any spare nuts and bolts that may suddenly "appear" within the car
![Big Grin](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#105
Originally posted by rotorbrain
im wondering if sex is possible in an fd. . . can anybody comment on this?!?!?!?!?!?! hahahahaha. just one of those things ive always wondered about. . . . just never tried. my car hasnt been off the ramps long enought to try. haha
im wondering if sex is possible in an fd. . . can anybody comment on this?!?!?!?!?!?! hahahahaha. just one of those things ive always wondered about. . . . just never tried. my car hasnt been off the ramps long enought to try. haha
#106
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 533
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
When starting the car, be SURE to warm it up FULLY, before kicking in the turbos. You have to let the seals, and all the internal components warm up, expand, and settle in before you start forced induction. If you don't, you can be sure you'll see blue smoke coming out your tailpipes.
1FAST7
1FAST7
#107
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 533
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Cool the turbos down! NEVER just shut the car off after 10-15 seconds. That is not enough. Invest in a turbo timer to idle the car down anywhere from 30 sec-1 min, or even several mins after racing.
1FAST7
1FAST7
#110
Senior Member
![](https://www.rx7club.com/images/misc/15_year_icon.png)
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 705
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by Lunar7
Actually there is an E/L Unit which senses Blower Motor on 3 & 4, Headlight ON, Rear Window Defroster ON and then passes this info along to the ECU. Page F-135 of 94 Service Manual. A scan is included below.
Actually there is an E/L Unit which senses Blower Motor on 3 & 4, Headlight ON, Rear Window Defroster ON and then passes this info along to the ECU. Page F-135 of 94 Service Manual. A scan is included below.
However this is not the same as the ECU directly knowing what the fan speed is. It merely knows that there is an electrical load signal be it for defroster, or blower or park lights or whatever, and that was my original problem with the post.
Furthermore, maxpesce still hasn't come up with anything demonstrating that one fan can operate at low speed, and the other at medium or medium/high as he claims....that's what I really want to see. I don't think its gonna happen....
#112
I Sold My Car 2 the Devil
![](https://www.rx7club.com/images/misc/10_year_icon.png)
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Duncanville, Tx
Posts: 2,361
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It is possible to attain less than 60deg from you a/c when you have a FMIC by hooking up 2 17" (it think) fans to the condenser. Putting them on there and making them run takes about an hour and 30 min.
Blowing 3 motors in 5 months is not good on your pocketbook.
Changing the differential bushings on an FD requires that you remove both axles and drop the differential.
FD's roll on 225/45 16's
FD's have attained the nickname miniviper
The curbweight of the car sits right around 2800lbs.
Fd's can actually break on a bi-weekly basis.
Touring fd's have hard leather seats.
![devil](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/FIREdevil.gif)
Ryker
Blowing 3 motors in 5 months is not good on your pocketbook.
Changing the differential bushings on an FD requires that you remove both axles and drop the differential.
FD's roll on 225/45 16's
FD's have attained the nickname miniviper
The curbweight of the car sits right around 2800lbs.
Fd's can actually break on a bi-weekly basis.
Touring fd's have hard leather seats.
![devil](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/FIREdevil.gif)
Ryker
#113
1JZ powered
![](https://www.rx7club.com/images/misc/10_year_icon.png)
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Where there's only two seasons, hot and wet! I love Okinawa
Posts: 4,423
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by Lunar7
Actually there is an E/L Unit which senses Blower Motor on 3 & 4, Headlight ON, Rear Window Defroster ON and then passes this info along to the ECU. Page F-135 of 94 Service Manual. A scan is included below.
I have confirmed that the fans will indeed turn on at a lower temperature when an Electrical Load Condition is present (Blower on 3 & 4, Parking/Head Lighhts). Therefore if can, in that sense, be seen as a more agressive map.
Actual fan speed is determined by the number of fan relays on. Relay 1 (by AC Sensor), Relay 2&4 (by ECU), Relay 3 (by Water Thermo Sw). The number of conditions (1, 2 or 3) determines the speed Low, Med or High. Page F-144 of 94 Service Manual. A scan is included below.
Actually there is an E/L Unit which senses Blower Motor on 3 & 4, Headlight ON, Rear Window Defroster ON and then passes this info along to the ECU. Page F-135 of 94 Service Manual. A scan is included below.
I have confirmed that the fans will indeed turn on at a lower temperature when an Electrical Load Condition is present (Blower on 3 & 4, Parking/Head Lighhts). Therefore if can, in that sense, be seen as a more agressive map.
Actual fan speed is determined by the number of fan relays on. Relay 1 (by AC Sensor), Relay 2&4 (by ECU), Relay 3 (by Water Thermo Sw). The number of conditions (1, 2 or 3) determines the speed Low, Med or High. Page F-144 of 94 Service Manual. A scan is included below.
Now that's good info right there. I did some experimenting with my datalogit a few months back to see what the fans did and how they come on with various accessories coming on and off, so this is how I devised my fan "map" if you will. I know that the stock fans do come on at 100 and 105.
#114
1JZ powered
![](https://www.rx7club.com/images/misc/10_year_icon.png)
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Where there's only two seasons, hot and wet! I love Okinawa
Posts: 4,423
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by wonder1and
Changing the differential bushings on an FD requires that you remove both axles and drop the differential.
Changing the differential bushings on an FD requires that you remove both axles and drop the differential.
Let me add to this as well. The stock FD differential is a TORque SENsing diff, or TORSEN for short. It does not handle wheel hop well. If you blow your diff, there may be a chance that the axles will NOT come out of the differential casing. You'll have to pull the differential down WITH the axles in them....Not the most fun thing in the world.
![Mad](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/mad.gif)
#116
Junior Member
![](https://www.rx7club.com/images/misc/05_year_icon.png)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Forest park Georgia
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thanx alot for the replys. this has really helped me alot. i didnt expect to get sooo much feed back from this thread. and if there are more keep them comming.
#118
Obsessed
![](https://www.rx7club.com/images/misc/10_year_icon.png)
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Oceanside, California
Posts: 313
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Re: Drivers door light
Originally posted by maxpesce
This feature was an OPTION - many (mine included) are not equiped with the lighted Drivers door Lighted lock cylinders - The lighted cyl's have an amber plastic ring around the key slot - the unlighted ones have a black metal ring.
This feature was an OPTION - many (mine included) are not equiped with the lighted Drivers door Lighted lock cylinders - The lighted cyl's have an amber plastic ring around the key slot - the unlighted ones have a black metal ring.
It's a 93 Base
#120
Senior Member
![](https://www.rx7club.com/images/misc/10_year_icon.png)
Re: Re: Re: Drivers door light
Originally posted by noon
Mine has a black metal ring(I know this because it is slightly chipped) and it also has a lighted lock cylinder.
It's a 93 Base
Mine has a black metal ring(I know this because it is slightly chipped) and it also has a lighted lock cylinder.
It's a 93 Base
-pete
#121
Out of order
![](https://www.rx7club.com/images/misc/15_year_icon.png)
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: somewhere
Posts: 7,040
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
to effectively have "racing sessions" in the FD3S, you must first scoot the seat all the way back, and recline the backing all the way down, and remove the back "cargo wall." then there are 2 effective options, note i said effective.
1) Driver must lay back, and have his woman get on top, and "reposition" the hardware to fit into place. It shouldnt require any modifications, or jamming into place. Should fit like the M2 intake pipe kit.
Then, have your "technician/mechanic" grab the harness bar that was revealed after removing the cargo wall, and let her have at the "twins." Driver must sit back, and hope for the longest E.T.'s during the spirited event.
2) have the seat all the way back, and have your "technitian/mechanic" position her face towards the floorboard, with her "power plant frame" in your face. Then, try different techniques so you can effectively pull off a .69 reaction time/position. Then, let her shifting hand work the stick, and you work her throttle, until you reach full boost. Once in the red, your injectors should be hitting %100 duty (as well as the T-88 LARGE single, or twins with custom exhaust), and will soon need to be relieved. Tell your partner to stop, and brace for the "slowdown" as she lets off the throttle. The wastegate should have only let out minimal amounts of boost during WOT, but when she finally gets off the throttle, the BOV should do its job, and release ALL excess pressure, as long as the flange/spring is not stuck in the closed position. That, or your piping is getting old, and you had some premature boost leakage.
That is how to effectively compete in an endurance race in the FD3S.
1) Driver must lay back, and have his woman get on top, and "reposition" the hardware to fit into place. It shouldnt require any modifications, or jamming into place. Should fit like the M2 intake pipe kit.
![Big Grin](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
2) have the seat all the way back, and have your "technitian/mechanic" position her face towards the floorboard, with her "power plant frame" in your face. Then, try different techniques so you can effectively pull off a .69 reaction time/position. Then, let her shifting hand work the stick, and you work her throttle, until you reach full boost. Once in the red, your injectors should be hitting %100 duty (as well as the T-88 LARGE single, or twins with custom exhaust), and will soon need to be relieved. Tell your partner to stop, and brace for the "slowdown" as she lets off the throttle. The wastegate should have only let out minimal amounts of boost during WOT, but when she finally gets off the throttle, the BOV should do its job, and release ALL excess pressure, as long as the flange/spring is not stuck in the closed position. That, or your piping is getting old, and you had some premature boost leakage.
That is how to effectively compete in an endurance race in the FD3S.
#122
1JZ powered
![](https://www.rx7club.com/images/misc/10_year_icon.png)
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Where there's only two seasons, hot and wet! I love Okinawa
Posts: 4,423
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by RedR1
to effectively have "racing sessions" in the FD3S, you must first scoot the seat all the way back, and recline the backing all the way down, and remove the back "cargo wall." then there are 2 effective options, note i said effective.
1) Driver must lay back, and have his woman get on top, and "reposition" the hardware to fit into place. It shouldnt require any modifications, or jamming into place. Should fit like the M2 intake pipe kit.
Then, have your "technician/mechanic" grab the harness bar that was revealed after removing the cargo wall, and let her have at the "twins." Driver must sit back, and hope for the longest E.T.'s during the spirited event.
2) have the seat all the way back, and have your "technitian/mechanic" position her face towards the floorboard, with her "power plant frame" in your face. Then, try different techniques so you can effectively pull off a .69 reaction time/position. Then, let her shifting hand work the stick, and you work her throttle, until you reach full boost. Once in the red, your injectors should be hitting %100 duty (as well as the T-88 LARGE single, or twins with custom exhaust), and will soon need to be relieved. Tell your partner to stop, and brace for the "slowdown" as she lets off the throttle. The wastegate should have only let out minimal amounts of boost during WOT, but when she finally gets off the throttle, the BOV should do its job, and release ALL excess pressure, as long as the flange/spring is not stuck in the closed position. That, or your piping is getting old, and you had some premature boost leakage.
That is how to effectively compete in an endurance race in the FD3S.
to effectively have "racing sessions" in the FD3S, you must first scoot the seat all the way back, and recline the backing all the way down, and remove the back "cargo wall." then there are 2 effective options, note i said effective.
1) Driver must lay back, and have his woman get on top, and "reposition" the hardware to fit into place. It shouldnt require any modifications, or jamming into place. Should fit like the M2 intake pipe kit.
![Big Grin](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
2) have the seat all the way back, and have your "technitian/mechanic" position her face towards the floorboard, with her "power plant frame" in your face. Then, try different techniques so you can effectively pull off a .69 reaction time/position. Then, let her shifting hand work the stick, and you work her throttle, until you reach full boost. Once in the red, your injectors should be hitting %100 duty (as well as the T-88 LARGE single, or twins with custom exhaust), and will soon need to be relieved. Tell your partner to stop, and brace for the "slowdown" as she lets off the throttle. The wastegate should have only let out minimal amounts of boost during WOT, but when she finally gets off the throttle, the BOV should do its job, and release ALL excess pressure, as long as the flange/spring is not stuck in the closed position. That, or your piping is getting old, and you had some premature boost leakage.
That is how to effectively compete in an endurance race in the FD3S.
![Frown](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/frown.gif)
![Big Grin](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#123
Out of order
![](https://www.rx7club.com/images/misc/15_year_icon.png)
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: somewhere
Posts: 7,040
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
lol Jspec, i was trying to see how far i could stretch the "sex in an FD" that someone posted up there before me, Hoping no one would notice till the end of my thread that it was indeed, sex and not Auto-X. Cha ching, it worked ![Big Grin](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
another fact: the stock speedo on an FD reads 180 in the US. i think Jayspec can tell us what it is on the kilo side (i know our speedo's read kilometers underneath, but i never read it, and suck at conversions).
![Big Grin](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
another fact: the stock speedo on an FD reads 180 in the US. i think Jayspec can tell us what it is on the kilo side (i know our speedo's read kilometers underneath, but i never read it, and suck at conversions).
#124
1JZ powered
![](https://www.rx7club.com/images/misc/10_year_icon.png)
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Where there's only two seasons, hot and wet! I love Okinawa
Posts: 4,423
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by RedR1
lol Jspec, i was trying to see how far i could stretch the "sex in an FD" that someone posted up there before me, Hoping no one would notice till the end of my thread that it was indeed, sex and not Auto-X. Cha ching, it worked![Big Grin](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
another fact: the stock speedo on an FD reads 180 in the US. i think Jayspec can tell us what it is on the kilo side (i know our speedo's read kilometers underneath, but i never read it, and suck at conversions).
lol Jspec, i was trying to see how far i could stretch the "sex in an FD" that someone posted up there before me, Hoping no one would notice till the end of my thread that it was indeed, sex and not Auto-X. Cha ching, it worked
![Big Grin](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
another fact: the stock speedo on an FD reads 180 in the US. i think Jayspec can tell us what it is on the kilo side (i know our speedo's read kilometers underneath, but i never read it, and suck at conversions).
side note: 180 kph is actually 112.5 mph