Pillow balls for the trailing link or trailing arm replace
03-12-10, 08:34 AM
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Pillow ***** for the trailing link or trailing arm replace
hi,
i have problems with the pillow ***** and need to replece them. what choises do i have?
are there any aftermarket bals or something?
i heard for some poluyrethans . is it suitable for that setup or not?
where to find those?
i am looking at the 94+ parts diagram page 2830 , and there are two part numbers :
the fd01-26-220 and the fd01-26-230 .
can someone please clear this?witch is the correct?
i do not know the oem cost of the pillow ***** . there are some available trailing links with a nice price. do anyone have an opinion about that?
thanks
i have problems with the pillow ***** and need to replece them. what choises do i have?
are there any aftermarket bals or something?
i heard for some poluyrethans . is it suitable for that setup or not?
where to find those?
i am looking at the 94+ parts diagram page 2830 , and there are two part numbers :
the fd01-26-220 and the fd01-26-230 .
can someone please clear this?witch is the correct?
i do not know the oem cost of the pillow ***** . there are some available trailing links with a nice price. do anyone have an opinion about that?
thanks
03-12-10, 08:54 AM
#2
There are some aftermarket pillow *****, like FEED and some others but they aren't going to be any better then the OEM. You can get either oem or the aftermarket ones at RHDJapan.com. Also Ray Crowe at Malloy Mazda in Woodbridge VA has great prices and excellent service, but I'm not sure if he ships overseas. AFAIK there are no polyurethane replacements for pillow ***** as they would not be able to perform the same function.
03-12-10, 10:03 AM
#3
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Yep, you have to replace them with original Mazda parts. This is one area where the aftermarket really can't better the design - it's a solid bushing.
Make sure to get both the pillowballs AND the dust seals. The reason they fail is the dust seals get old and let dirt and junk in which kills the teflon-lined bearings. I've seen new ones fail within a year that didn't replace the dust seals.
In theory, changing the dust seals out as preventative maintenance would greatly extend the life of the bushings.
Dale
Make sure to get both the pillowballs AND the dust seals. The reason they fail is the dust seals get old and let dirt and junk in which kills the teflon-lined bearings. I've seen new ones fail within a year that didn't replace the dust seals.
In theory, changing the dust seals out as preventative maintenance would greatly extend the life of the bushings.
Dale
03-13-10, 02:58 AM
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thanks,
thats why the ***** are destroyed. i changed only the bals 4 years ago and i made 2000m since then. the car was always in a garage. now the ***** have 1/4" play. ...
what about the rubber bushings at the other end of the link? it is in a good shape but many members suggest the poly replacements. i do not know how the poly looks like. can i purchace a bar and turn it in a lathe ? is it too soft for lathe? do i need any metal parts to fit with the poly or i use the old ones from the oem rubers?
i have acces to a lathe and it would be wonderful if it is so simple to make them. (parhaps not only the trailing links but all the ruber bushings on the front and rear arms.)
thanks!!!
thanks
thats why the ***** are destroyed. i changed only the bals 4 years ago and i made 2000m since then. the car was always in a garage. now the ***** have 1/4" play. ...
what about the rubber bushings at the other end of the link? it is in a good shape but many members suggest the poly replacements. i do not know how the poly looks like. can i purchace a bar and turn it in a lathe ? is it too soft for lathe? do i need any metal parts to fit with the poly or i use the old ones from the oem rubers?
i have acces to a lathe and it would be wonderful if it is so simple to make them. (parhaps not only the trailing links but all the ruber bushings on the front and rear arms.)
thanks!!!
thanks
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