Apexi AVC-R II Electronic Boost Controller

Apexi AFC Neo Air Fuel Controller

Ignition Timing Controls by msd

would this be a better way to go then getting a who new ECU ...like power fc or HKS f-con and lil chipper as this are is to tune mostly self learning with option to customize....

now where i am living no one wants to f@*& wit this cars at all no one wants to work on them idk y...

now i am not looking to get some huge power out of it

was thinking stage 1 fuel system
BNR Stage 3 Turbo Upgrade 93+ RX-7 or efini twins same what ever i can get


v-mount inter cooler
my car is all ready ported
3mm apex seals
3" titanium exhaust
high flow cat .... wanna take it out and have just 3" straight pipe

its 94 so i wont have problem wit inspection

now i am looking to get like 360 - 380 with 16 -17psi on 93 octane

 

with the mods that you want to get you'll definitely want a stand alone ECU.

the PFC is the most used so everybody knows how to tune and it is relatively easy to tune yourself.

going with the stand alone unit will also prevent you from messing up the engine, you'll be able to monitor other key systems that just a "piggyback" won't

personally, there is no other option other than going stand alone; piggy backs are just a waste of money and time on this car and you also have a higher risk of something going wrong

 

ok thanks....how hard would it be to tune PFC on my own i would be doing that for the first time wit lap top on the highway
or u think i could just jack it up and take rear tiers off and big fan in front ...i have seen that done ....or would i be able to tune it just wit commander

i got good price on new pfc wit commander 895
and 225 for software
if u in nyc u can get it chipper if u pick it up


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((i know every one is paying alto more 1000+
u can get the number to call apexi directly about PFC in import tuner mag
and then apexi will set up up wit one of their direct dealers for that price
of 895 thats retail price if u pay more u getting riped of ))
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Hmm, I paid $750 shipped (new with commander). Then I bought a Dataloggit and now I can control basically everything the commander can... and more.

BTW if you are going to spend money on new twins, dont even think about the 99 spec twins. 2350 for BNR stage 3's is by far the better choice. The 99 specs are still pretty weak.

Definitely go with a standalone ECU.

I would recommend at least a resonated midpipe... unless you like having to wear earplugs inside your own vehicle... not to mention what people outside...

If you are wanting to run a consistent 17psi, go BNR stage 3's. best bang for your buck.

i prefer to stay sequential, but some people dont understand the sequential control system enough to stay seq, so many end up going non seq. if you want to get the most out of your bnrs, stay sequential. (this is just my opinion, no reason to go non seq with new turbos, might as well go single)

 

i hear u.... BNR must stay sequential any one tray to run them differently i would laugh at them...

stock twins on fd HITACHI HT12 turbo
i heard of this but i dont know true or how hard is it to get to this parts
u r able to bolt on bigger or machine existing housing and drop in bigger blade and 360 bearings in to a stock turbo witch would make it capable of higher boost levels
witch would make it = of BNR stage 3 ....it just wouldn't have manually adjustable boost controller on them as bnr do


..... u got good deal on pfc did u get it from some one that didn't need it any more ....but price when up..right now....some ppl trying to sell used ones for 800 i offer then 500 if they have fc commander with it and they start flipping out..i can buy new one for that u know....

and yea i like when ppl need earplugs .... i wan it to be loud

 

Too loud and obnoxious, and the you will have the cops attention. Let the honda's with the coffee can exhausts get the annoyingly-loud award. The FD is sexy enough without being excessively loud.

For the price, you are getting a great deal with the BNR's.

They are actually custom GT28 CHRA's modified to fit into the stock housings. Then all the extra work to port the wastegate and make everything as good as it gets. And the fact that the stock cooling lines (both oil and water) will work... and the quality of Bryan's work... You just can't beat the BNR's bang-for-buck factor.

I got the PFC for the right price, because I bought a BUNCH of other stuff from that company. And it was one that they ordered in for a client... that never paid for it... or showed up.

Lets just say: If Pineapple Racing offers it for a 2 rotor FD... I have it. (except for the new Idler pulley, I am debating going EWP, so I may not even need an idler.)

Something else to keep in mind:

If fuel is the blood and the engine is the heart, then tuning is the brain. It doesn't matter if your car is in marathon shape... If it is brain dead.

Go with a good ECU and get it tuned by a professional. Don't skimp. Any corner-cutting with an FD will result in expensive consequences.

 

My advice matches the above statements. Get the PFC but also know that will also need a good boost controller as well if you plan on running the BNR's like you want. If you are not an experienced tuner, then get the car however you need to in the hands of someone who is. transport, travel, and other expenses are far cheaper than a new motor what will also require a tune...

Get a resonated midpipe unless the car's main purpose is going to be for track use. Only then would I even consider the straight 3in pipe. It isn't needed and really you will not gain much out of it other than noise and more potent exhaust smell inside the car.

 

yea u right.....i am not going to skimp on important stuff....i also heard that u cant run synthetic oil in BNR's....

i am just one of them ppl, i like to do as much as i can my self... if i could see it get don once i would learn it .....i just like that feeling when car gets don and i can say that i did it there is nothing better then that.....

call me crazy but if i could get some parts chip or when i take my twins out i would tray building my own bnr's or some thing better....
combine it with t66 Center Housing Rotating Assemblies .....
i got place where i can do machining for free


and about exhaust...look up Mad Mikes fd from formula D its sweet ik know he got 20b in it wit N/A setup
i want my car sound some thing close to that or i might jut take my high flow cat of ...muffler stays on...idk will see

 

I have spoken with Bryan. you CAN run synthetic... but only if you tell him that when you order your turbos. He installs a dynamic (iirc) seal instead of a carbon seal. I don't remember exactly what he said, but you CAN run synthetic, as long as he knows that you will be doing so BEFORE he builds your twins for you.

you wont get a 20b sound out of a 13b. just wont happen.

for 2350 bucks... you can't beat the r&d. also, you can't go very big. the BNRs using a GT28 chra is about the MAX you will be able to use. It maxes out flow for the stock manifold and housings. Go any bigger and you are gaining no peak power potential, and slower spool.

Remember, your flow (intake or exhaust) is only as good as your weakest link. So stuffing a bigger turbo is pointless. I doubt it would even work anyways. Bryan did a great balance of fast spool while still maxing out the stock manifold. My personal goal is 425whp sequential on c16, but I will be MORE than happy with 390. sequentially, that much power would be a fantastic drive!!!

Do a the right streetport and have a healthy sequential system running 375 hp with a powerband from 2300 rpm and up.

 

Oh my god, posts like these make me want to sell my FD's and never return to this forum again.

Do you speak English? If so, did you graduate from elementary school? You misspelled the word "cheap" as "chip" --- Are you ******* kidding me?!

Also, you want your 13b Turbo motor to sound like an NA 20b with Peripheral Ports and ITB's... Wow, just wow...

This community is going to ****.

 

Sorry... Double Post.

 

Dude. relax. He could be bi-lingual, could be a kid, could be an adult that just doesn't spell very well. At least he is somewhat listening to the posts. Not fully, but somewhat.

Not everyone knows everything about rotaries. Unless we take the time to teach those that show the desire to listen, then eventually everyone will be gone from rx7club.... and they will probably follow you to whichever forum your almighty-grammar-****-*** settles into.

It is posts like yours that make me want to club baby seals.




At least he idolizes the sound of the most-baddest-of-*** engine ever. Could be worse: He could have come on here asking how he can make his RX7 sound like a 600cc sportbike. :P

Heck... even I dream of having a 20b, peripheral port monster, but alas! I do not have 35k to even think about it. So for now, I appease my baby (my non-running FD) by sitting in the driver's seat whilst making braap-brrraaaAAAAAAAAPP-psshht!brraaAAAAAPPPPP-psht! noises with my eyes closed and daydreaming of every corner I just apexed... every shift I just made.... and every panty that was just removed by my awesomeness..... Only to have my vision crushed by the reality of opening my eyes to see my buddy with a beer in hand... laughing at me... profusely...

But that's a whole different story... :P

I am just saying we could be a bit nicer. Sound good?

 

Hey I TOTALLY agree. I also do everything myself as well...except for tuning. This is one thing I have to admitt I do not even come close to having the knowledge required to attempt it. The rotary is fairly unforgiving if a mistake is made while tuning. I plan on taking some classes to help give myself more knowledge but those will be based off of piston engines and I will have to convert it to rotary specific knowledge after I get the other down...

 

--stokedxiv--yeah really calm down, if you don’t like the guy’s spelling then don’t post in his thread. There are many guys in here who are Spanish and oriental. Do you want every body to be a grad student like you?

 

yea *** i am not American and i speak 5 languages so get your un educated *** out of my face.......

what i men by 13b like 20b is high pitch when u gun it.......ik it cant be the same 20b got one more rotor
then 13b and if u got nothing to talk about donut bitch this is not english class i tray my best ....

 

thanks man i speak 5 languages not so good in writing English

 

its not to hard tho as some ppl can make it look ....as long as u get every thing to fire up u be ok
pfc comes wit base map to start of with and if u order it from a good dealer they can trow some seatings in there based on your mods..... i wouldn't drive the car wit it .....will need some fine tuning before test drive.....

thats y i am talking about piggybacks....u don't need to do much

Apexi AFC Neo Air Fuel Controller has 16 point fuel correction and it will support large injectors
its self learning
u can fully customize it

Apexi AVC-R II Electronic Boost Controller
every one knows that this r really good

and Ignition Timing Controls by msd and coils and amp for better spark

very basic setup that any one can do

hardest part i would say would be ignition timing

but as sweet as that sounds i am going to go wit PFC

i am going o get manual for it and still do it my self
i am just going be that much happier when its done

 

The HKS Twin Power is a great plug and play (if you buy the adapter harness) ignition amplifier for the FD. Not bad on price tag either.

You can control everything you need in the PFC if you also pick up a dataloggit. I got mine here:
http://www.rx7.com/store/rx7/fdecu.html

I have yet to find a cheaper price from a vendor, new.

Without the dataloggit, you will be somewhat limited with what you can do with the PFC. besides, tuning from a laptop is easier than with the commander.

I would also recommend getting the help of someone with experience. otherwise, it could be a VERY expensive learning curve... even the slightest error can cause catastrophic failure if said error is in the wrong place.

 

ik i got some wild ideas lol
idk i just wake up and i be like what if i could do that
when i install my bnr's
i am going to take the old ones and and mes with them.....

All GT28 turbos are ball bearing thats good..... They come in a T25 turbine witch i don't like to small
they r civic turbos...


i wanna small spooling blade with bigger turbine housing and blade.........

now GT42 what i am talking about...... double the size double the fun....
they allot of money so i am going to get chines version
t66 for 100$ and mes wit it for fun its only a T4 flange i would only do this to secondary turbo
got old rx7 for a test subject i try to kill it for long time

 

ok i got some vendor numbers ....not at home right now cant look it up.....but it would save any one about 300$$ for the new unit....i will post them up ...

 

Again, You're not going to be able to fit a bigger turbo in the stock housings.

Even if you could, the bigger turbo would not be able to produce more power than the BNR's quite simply because the stock housings/manifold WILL NOT flow more than the BNRs do.

Not all GT series turbos are ball bearing.

The BNR's are GT28s, with custom work from Garrett to make them work with the stock cooling system. (both oil and water)

I really don't see much of a benefit to trying to Frankenstein a larger turbo as the secondary. You won't have an easy time of getting the manifold to work. Quite frankly, just go single before re-using the inefficient stock exhaust design... unless you want to retain the sequential system.

It sounds to me like you are at the toss-up between going single and staying sequential.

The choice for a budget oriented sequential setup is the BNRs. For Single... well, my knowledge runs out at the twins.

 

yea u r right and good at riding ppl i don't know what i wanna do i love my twins
i just wish they where bigger.... aaaaaaaaaaa
ok no more stupid ideas...lol

i just broke my clutch master cylinder (i was thinking it was jut an oil line) i dont know what i did but when i got under... ther was no bolts holding it any more..... it got blown of
and then ...in attempt to replace it, i broke one bolts that holds up starter
now i got to drop the transmission down drill them out ...

 

the gt28's are bigger and better. capable of 20psi. 400+ hp. those are in the bnrs.

 

ok if i could get my hand on lil more info i can put them together no problem
i know that on supra they use GT28R-CT12 Conversion

GT28
GT2854R - 471171-9
GT2860R - 707160-5
GT2860R - 707160-7
GT2860RS - 739548-1
GT2871R - 472560-15 now witch one
GT2871R - 743347-1
GT2871R - 707160-10
GT2871R - 743347-2
GT2871R - 771847-1
GT2876R - 705330-1
GT2876R - 705330-2 (big one) singel turbo set up would put out 280-480max Horsepower

 

seriously... you are really going to try to make your own?

With all due respect. Don't. $2350 is cheap, and Bryan will make your twins better than you think.

Not to mention the fact that they are custom GT28 chra's from Garrett.

If you are really planning on doing this, my help is over. I won't support the undercutting of a company that puts a TON of R&D into the FD and makes a fantastic product for a MORE than fair price.

Are you going to machine the housings?
Do you know what machining is required?
Are you going to spend more money learning as you go instead of just letting a company with a great reputation and a great product and a warranty do it for you?

To me, this seems like a bad way of trying to cheap out. Bryan has spent a lot of money, time, and effort in choosing which chra to use to get the best benefit out of the stock turbo housings.

Not to mention, he even modifies your Y-pipe for you too.

http://www.bnrturbos.com/3rdGen.htm

Good luck.

And just to re-iterate: Larger (anythings) in the stock housings and manifold... will NOT net you more peak power. The BNRs already outflow the manifold and housings. Going bigger will only HURT your low end.