I'm yet to take my FD to the track, when I dirve normally, city driving, I see about 80c, but when driving hard I see about 95c, but then I pull over pop the hood, than goes does fairly quickly..

 

I asked Rob Golden at Pineapple about that.

He didn't think it worth worrying about until it hit 260 or 265f ( I forget which now, sorry).

125c is 257f, so there is some margin left there.

My car (new engine) has not been pushed too hard yet, but with 6500 RPM in 3rd gear, 7 PSI I am seeing oil temps of ~200 and coolant at about ~210. That was in 90f weather.

That's with FMIC by the way.

Vented hood is on the way, and hope to see a couple degrees drop in temps.

 

Heavy Duty seals from Pineapple Racing.

 

Currently running a Stant 6 lb cap.

 

Dash reads from a different place than the PFC.

Dash sender is right below the oil pedestal, whereas the PFC reads from the sender in the waterpump housing.

The readings you are seeing are correct:

The dash sender sees cooler temps because it's coming from the radiator and flows past the ignition area. It should rise under boost, and cool down off boost as cooler coolant comes from the radiator. Whereas the PFC readings will be somewhat constant because it is reading coolant as it exits the engine, which has collected heat from everywhere in the engine.

With my v-mount I'm seeing very good temps 80-86 in 90 degree weather at 15-16psi. I'm using a stock cap .9 bar with Evans NPG+. I would rather go with a lower pressure cap, however I haven't found one that is a small one that fits on the WP housing; I'm not using an AST.

I have a Defi guage in the stock location with the sender in the stock location and I see similar temp changes. I don't know what my oil temps are as I haven't hooked up my oil temp guage, but I am running a fully ducted dual Mocal setup so it should be pretty good.

 

Rob probably said 260 and to monitor your oil temps. At least that is what he told me.


Off topic, but...

You'll get better coolant temps from ducting your radiator than a vented hood.

Not sure what FMIC you are using but Rob also suggested putting a spacer at the front of the undertray where it meets the bottom lip of the bumper so you get some air under the IC to the rad. I did that and noticed a nice decrease with my Greddy / Koyo setup. Also added some ducting and sealing under and over the radiator. Also need to do the sides somehow if I don't switch to a V mount.

 

hey quick question.. i was thinking about running evans later on and like you ppl say flush it with Sierra coolant.. but do you mean like drain it all.. fill it up with Sierra coolant which i think is 2 gal .. run the car and drain it again..? then buy another 2 gal and do it again?

 

i run just ordinary 50/50 and i live in florida where it gets real hot and humid my car never gets over 96 c its always in the 80's dude when you hit 106 c pull over and let that bad boy cool down or else youll end up like i did i warped a motor due to high tems when i was younger dont make the same mistake it will ruin your wallet.

 

thats why i want to run evans.... and 2morrow im drilling my thermostat (1 hole to see where it goes from there) i want my temps to be low 90s i had 99 temp lastnight crusing at 80

 

I've plugged most of the holes. Couple of very small ones left, just around the P/S line and oil line.

As for the vented hood, check out the vented hood threads. There have been consistent decreases in coolant temp from using a vented hood. Not just due to heat escaping, but giving airflow a place to exit. I believe it was Howard Coleman that measured the difference in airflow, and a vented hood just about doubles it.

FMIC is Greddy 2 row, with a Koyo Rad.

I've seen the car with the vented undertray, and have the hardware to do it, just haven't done it yet.

 

100F days at Heartland Park, I'd see temps with Evans about 125C at 13psi. Like you Damian, car ran flawlessly. I didn't like seeing these types of temps and reengineered my cooling system for a water based system again. The evans got the engine so hot that my Pettit heat tabs melted out and slid down the rotor housing a few cm! Worked great but I didn' t like the high temps. I now use distilled H20 and about 20%coolant and a product called "cools like ice water" from Pro-Blend. My track temps this year have been 220F or lower but it has been cooler than last year. In 105F temps with this setup, I was getting to 230-240F quickly but that was peak and didn't climb any higher. I ran one session on Friday and ran for 45mins and temps were stable didn't go above 240F. Oil temps were 230F and stable too! Unfortunately when I ran Evans I didn't have an oil temp gauge.
Art

 

Without knowing what the oil temps were when using Evans, you can't really compare the results of Evans vs. Water.

Also, while NGP may not transfer heat as efficiently as water, it does not boil until well above the engines possible operating temperature range.

Since water based coolants are subject to nucleate boiling, the coolant temps don't tell the whole story. Evans could well be transferring heat away from areas where the water based coolant is not working well due to localized nucleate boiling.

This can account for some of the higher temps.

 

My temps have NEVER got over 195F unless I am sitting still for a while idling then it gets to like 200-205F

I am running twin-19row oil coolers, Koyo Rad, and a Electric 55gpm water pump at 7psi

My normal running temps are in the 175-180F that is in South Texas temps, I have the PowerFC controling my fans so that is kinda like my way of controling the temps at idle, I dont have a T-stat at all

Evans NPG-R

 

so u can eliminate the ast and overflow if you run evans coolant its a non pressured system?

 

You can eliminate the AST with evans or without, its there mostly because the filler caps are not the high point of the system so air gets trapped in the throttle body.

You cannot however eliminate the overflow. I guess you could, but it would allow air to get sucked back into your system every time you shut down and restart.

 

Blake from pineapple had some very informative things to say about NPG+... We had a breif discussion about it on his Engine Building Thread.


https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ngine+building





=Ben

 

I stumbled upon this thread searching for something else and figured I'd update.

I have been running Evans in my car since the last motor build by the previous owner. A couple of months ago, the one coolant hose I had forgotten to replace burst on me while away from home. Thankfully, I was with another FD owner who went to his house and got me patched up. I was able to fill the cooling system with distilled water and got the car home running fairly normal temps with the Evans and distilled water mix.

I decided to revert back to coolant and water for my system. Its a pita to not have Evans readily available at any local auto parts store and I expect to have my cooling system apart again over the course of the year.

3 weeks later the car was running again. From what I noticed, my cooling system temps seemed to be a bit hotter (~1-3 degrees C) running the water/coolant mix compared to the Evans in regular street driving. It also seems to warm up a bit quicker with the water/coolant mix compared to straight Evans. At the 3 degree higher temp, my low fan is set to engage fwiw.

I was a bit surprised as Evans is supposed to run hotter. My mixture was around 80% water to 20% coolant. Maybe I just had too much water in my mix...

 

I know it was an old thread, but I'm searching Evans NPG+. I was wondering if you considered adding a non-ethylene Glycol anti-freeze to your system after your leak instead of the distilled water? From what I understand that is what Evans recommends rather than adding water or EG based anti-freezes.

Anyway, I'm considering making this change. I have a new AST I want to install anyway so that means at some point draining the system. I just want to be sure that I understand how to completely purge the water from the system before hand.

 

I'm just running regular Prestone and distilled water. I forget if Prestone non-EG...

I think there were some good directions on how to do this earlier in the thread. The best way to drain a lot of the anti freeze is to drain the radiator and also the block using the 14mm bolt in the driver's side int housing. Gets almost everything out that way.