I see between 95-100c tooling around...at the track it goes up to 125+

i know evans runns hotter than normal coolant so I'm not worried yet, but I have no baseline to compare too, can you guys post your temps for comparison.

 

God, I'd be scared shitless to see 125C (257F), Evan's coolant or not. That is really hot.

Are you sure your water pump/thermostat/fans are all working properly?

 

yeah, all seems to be working right, been to many track events liek that now and car has no issues... should i be more worried than i am? evans dosnt boil until some crazy high number, and the boiling ...(thus loss of ability to transfer heat away from walls and causing uneven cooling, warping housing exposing seals)... is what kills the seals from my limited understanding.

... but i dont know, that is why i want evans people to post their street/track temps

 

I have found that engine temps with evans vary with ambient air temp and engine load.

In Cool Weather 60degF
Street Temp: 180 cruising / 200 sustained high load
Track Temp: 210 (sustained extreme high load)

In Hot Weather 100degF
Street Temp: 200 cruising / 220 sustained high load
Track Temp: 250 (sustained extreme high load)

I like evans for all the typical reasons and also because my car always cools off very quickly when I throttle back from high load.
Therefore I am satisfied that the evans has things under control and is doing its job.
Rob at Pineapple racing told me that if you don't feel the engine loosing power as coolant temps rise then the evans is effectively controlling the metal temperatures in your engine.
It may be BS, but I really don't feel any loss in engine power as my engine heats up (to 250) now that I am running evans.
That is perhaps what impressed me the most.
My car used to feel like a true dog in hot (100 deg)weather when I ran regular coolant.

 

My numbers are for the incredible heat in Phoenix but here you go.

No A/C, Highway driving - 90C
A/C on, highway driving - 95C
no A/C, city streets - 95C
A/C on, city streets - 100C +

Lots of stop and go traffic with the A/C on the temperature never seems to max out, I have hit up to 105C before shutting off the A/C and rolling down windows. Temps then quickly drop below 100 usually leveling off at about 95C. Keep in mind this is in 105 - 110 degree weather. If the outside temps are 90 or lower I never see much of anything above 90, maybe 92 with the A/C on after alot of stop and go city driving.

I have a Koyo radiator and low fans set to come on at 85 trying to keep the Evans cool. I would be worried if I saw anywhere near 125C. What kind of track driving are you seeing these temps? What is the weather like wher you are? Sorry I have no track temps, I dont do any kind of racing when it is this hot.

 

Is there anything special you need to do to the cooling system to use the Evans? I'm running just normal coolant/water and I've got a MazdaComp radiator, and I'm not seeing any trouble yet. I will get temps when I plug my PFC commander back in.

 

Just flush it out a couple times with straight Sierra coolant. You want to get all the water out of the system and the Evans is compatible with the little bit of Sierra that will be left.

There is a write-up on this at pineappleracing.com.

 

Only done to track events with Evans...ambient temp was about 95. My temps went to about 110C or so worst case and car ran great.

 

this is exactly what i see lunar7, same high temps at teh track during hot days...but the cars runs very strong, like you mentioned with yours...

 

Car is usually around 89-90, sometimes as high as 95 when cruising. When I really get on it, it climbs to 105. I have a FMIC. Just curious...how many with high temps have FMICs?

 

Highway runing/idle -- 178 F (81.1 C)
Hard run (100+ mph)-- 190 F (87.78C)

 

Those of you running Evans, are your O-ring seals the OEM seals or upgraded seals?

I'm considering running Evans but weighing all infor first.

 

I have original tubos and engine (stock seals obviously) ans have run evans this entire track season with no problems yet.

 

Is it possible the EVANS coolant runs significantly hotter because it is more efficient at REMOVING heat? If normal coolant were able to scavenge heat more efficiently temps would be higher.
You need to be able to measure the actual temps of metal the coolant is passing over to see the difference between different coolant mediums. Have no clue how to do this.
Could be the temps we are used to looking at are predicated on the rate water/glycol absorbs heat. If a different mediums absorbs heat at a greater rate, the metal parts actually run cooler because the heat is now in the coolant.

 

very possible and some have suggested that it is the reason for seeing higher temps

 

Gambino, thats exactly what Rob@Pineapple says. CJ

 

My temps run about 195 degF in 100 degF outside temp, hard street driving on highway. I've seen it as high as 205 degF after really hard driving. Typically 185 degF in cool weather.

Evans will need to run hotter than water based coolant to transfer the same heat thru the radiator, my temps have gone up ever so slightly over water/coolant/water wetter.

 

I just got my new Pineapple ported motor with upgraded coolant seals installed and I am running Evans at the suggestion of Rob & Joel at Pineapple.

Rob @ Pineapple says that the higher temps I am seeing while running Evans is not that big a deal. He said that the Evans NPG+ is much more efficient than EGW at adhereing to the metal surfaces and removing the heat away from the metal. Thus causing us to see higher coolant temps.

Rob says that you shouldn't worry about temps until you see 260 F (!) The Evans will not boil until 380 F... You should really worry only if you see sudden temp spikes.

With two motors dead due to O-ring failiure...I'm still worried.

 

posted by R. Gambino:

"Is it possible the EVANS coolant runs significantly hotter because it is more efficient at REMOVING heat?"

No. It's basic heat transfer properties are not as good as water or egw. It picks up heat from the very hot spots but doesn't shed it as well to cooler engine parts (false quicker warm-up) or to the rad.

"If normal coolant were able to scavenge heat more efficiently temps would be higher"

You could run air as coolant, it would get hot as hell, and engine metal temps would be extreme" Hotter fluid does not mean better heat transfer.

"You need to be able to measure the actual temps of metal the coolant is passing over to see the difference between different coolant mediums. Have no clue how to do this"

Good idea. Some indirect data from those that measure oil temps indicate higher oil temps with evans. This goes back to metal being hotter with NPG+, for a common coolant temperatue.

"Could be the temps we are used to looking at are predicated on the rate water/glycol absorbs heat. If a different mediums absorbs heat at a greater rate, the metal parts actually run cooler because the heat is now in the coolant."

Actually the opposite. At normal temps, Evans gets hot without absorbing as much engine heat = hotter metal temps.

----------------

The NPG advantage is much higher boiling point, and no pressure required. Take 2 equally mod'd FD's, one with 50/50 and one with NPG. On hot day start doing laps progressively faster. Once both are beyond the t-stat wide open point at 200F, the evans will clearly run higher bulk coolant temps. But as lap times drop the egw car hits a critical temp where bulk coolant temp rises up to say 225F, and normal controlled local boiling becomes uncontrolled (DNB .. departure from nucleate boiling), and temps start to spike up ... back off. Although the npg car might be 240F at this point, it still has very controlled local boiling, and can still be run much harder, at even higher temps.

A hotter engine runs more efficiently ... less energy dumped thru cooling system. Stay below limits established by pineapple's experience, and watch oil temps. And give a few more miles/minutes for warm up beyond what the gage indicates.

my $02

 

In my NA second gen, running a new Pineapple Engine I am seeing 210º cruising temp as measured with a mechanical temperature gauge mount in the water pump housing neck. This is with a 90º Outside temp.

What kind of Cap is everyone running?

John

 

im running zero pressure.... nrmal cap with bottom seal removed

 

On my car it was the ast cap that I removed the bottom seal from, not the filler cap.

 

mine too..ast cap...Not filler cap or you will leak the coolant!!

 

I'm running a 0 psi cap with NPG+, a Koyo, bypassed throttle body and all new hoses. I also have ribbed water channels on the housings.
I try and keep it really cool, in mild weather just driving nice it stays at 80c. If I get on the throttle it goes up to 85-87c, at which time I use the A/C trick to turn the fans on high. It will get up to 94c if I let it (not turning A/C on).
I have a NAPA 180 deg thermostat.

 

hmm, running at 80 is to cold for my blood, i would think it is well out side of optimal temperture range for efficient running? but im speculating

running the car at its stock operating temp is a good thing, it is when it goes over that when it becomes undesirable.... running very cold does not = running very well