Overported...NOW HOW DO I FIX??? (HELP)
03-27-06, 10:43 AM
#26
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just use epoxy to plug that hole. make sure you get it on both sides and you'll be fine.
the problem with porting templates is they show you only the port shape... that's not exactly the LEAST important thing, but MOST of the work in porting is done where you can't see from the top.
the problem with porting templates is they show you only the port shape... that's not exactly the LEAST important thing, but MOST of the work in porting is done where you can't see from the top.
03-27-06, 11:44 AM
#28
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Originally Posted by HDP
The cost of having someone else do your port job, seems like a killer deal now, huh?
03-27-06, 05:20 PM
#31
Get some industrial jb weld. Clean up the metal real good and fill the hole with the jb weld from the inside of the port and also the backside through the coolant passage. Once it cures sand and it and contour it to the shape of the port. I have used this method before and it has held up, but I only had a pin hole.
03-28-06, 01:16 PM
#33
There is a guy up here on the South Shore who is a master welder but seriously, i think the better route is getting a new iron. This is definately not worth having a weld blow in the end. Shoot me a pm if your interested I can get his contact info for you. He owns the body shop where my car was painted.
03-28-06, 03:22 PM
#34
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http://www.metalsurgery.com/
Call and talk to Curt. If you can get him to do the job on any cast part, he will guarantee against failure and the progressive damage. He does amazing work.
He has spent thousands learning to fix cast the right way....
I had him fix an engine that lost a piston and damaged the liner seat. He rebuilt the whole thing back to spec. It is still running today.
Call and talk to Curt. If you can get him to do the job on any cast part, he will guarantee against failure and the progressive damage. He does amazing work.
He has spent thousands learning to fix cast the right way....
I had him fix an engine that lost a piston and damaged the liner seat. He rebuilt the whole thing back to spec. It is still running today.
03-28-06, 03:38 PM
#35
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If you can get to the back side of the port, clean the hell out of it with solvent and water and let it dry completely. On the front side of the port, countersink the hole you made, this will make it slightly larger but will make sure your repair doesnt simply fall out the back. Place a piece of tape over the hole and slap a nice big glob of jb weld onto it from the back side, all over the top of the port on the back side. when it dries peal the tape off and spread a thin layer of jb-weld on the inside of the port too, filling the countersink so that you end up with a plug that cant be pulled out from the back or the front, because it is hourglass shaped internally. make sure you grind off any thin layer of jbweld that might remain around the area on the inside that could possibly flake off when the motor is together.
Thats how i fixed my housings when i ported into the waterjacket on the runners, they are currently doing great and have been in the car like 2 years. Some builders backfill the ports with epoxy on purpose and port into it.
Thats how i fixed my housings when i ported into the waterjacket on the runners, they are currently doing great and have been in the car like 2 years. Some builders backfill the ports with epoxy on purpose and port into it.
03-28-06, 06:10 PM
#36
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Why did you go strait down instead of an angle? I was told it should be a 45 degree angle inward to the hole to be smooth otherwise there is turbulance. Isn't there a putty you can use? I'm not shure if it will patch the hole but it is used to help form the smooth angle. why didn't you practice on bad irons first? Is Judge Ito's template and extended race port?
03-28-06, 06:15 PM
#37
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Originally Posted by snkydvl
There is a guy up here on the South Shore who is a master welder but seriously, i think the better route is getting a new iron. This is definately not worth having a weld blow in the end. Shoot me a pm if your interested I can get his contact info for you. He owns the body shop where my car was painted.
oh blah. blast over that thing with a mig if you don't like epoxy. it gets 200*, and sees boost pressure. it's not exactly like there's any significant stress on it.
03-28-06, 10:26 PM
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Sorry, I can't see JB Weld working on a port. I tried it on my exhaust and it burned it right off. Temperatures on an iron have got to be hotter than the exhaust. It doesn't seem worth the trouble of blowing up all the work and investment of rebuilding an engine for $300.
03-28-06, 11:28 PM
#40
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Originally Posted by Mazda99Nikon
Sorry, I can't see JB Weld working on a port. I tried it on my exhaust and it burned it right off. Temperatures on an iron have got to be hotter than the exhaust. It doesn't seem worth the trouble of blowing up all the work and investment of rebuilding an engine for $300.
I think the exhuast gasses are ~1600* that is far hotter than the iron of the plates is going to get up to.
03-29-06, 07:40 AM
#41
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Its ok guys, I ended up buying a used iron to rerplace the one that I ported into the water jacket. I have decided to use the intermediate iron, I dont belive that the porting into the oil seal is that bad.
03-29-06, 10:49 AM
#42
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Originally Posted by Mazda99Nikon
Sorry, I can't see JB Weld working on a port. I tried it on my exhaust and it burned it right off. Temperatures on an iron have got to be hotter than the exhaust. It doesn't seem worth the trouble of blowing up all the work and investment of rebuilding an engine for $300.
this is an intake port, not exhaust. if you're not able to fix it, don't. buy a new iron. but anyone competant in the shop will have no trouble fixing that and making it last.
03-29-06, 11:34 AM
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get a small cast plat that will fill the hole up a little and JB weld the **** out of that hole, j/b weld works. i used it on a leaking old beat up block b4 from a crack in it, the guy didnt want to get a new motor so i j/b welded it. but my only concern is when you go into boost, but like i said j.b baby, its GODs gift lolol
03-29-06, 12:30 PM
#44
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Originally Posted by HDP
That's like using Elmer's glue to frame a house...
you must have missed physics class. it'd be more like drilling a small hole through a pane of sheetrock and filling that up with glue. this is a non-structural section we're talking about here. the intake section sees less stress than any other part of the motor.
come on guys, how do you think peripheral ports are done?
03-29-06, 03:07 PM
#45
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Originally Posted by GUITARJUNKIE28
you must have missed physics class. it'd be more like drilling a small hole through a pane of sheetrock and filling that up with glue. this is a non-structural section we're talking about here. the intake section sees less stress than any other part of the motor.
come on guys, how do you think peripheral ports are done?
come on guys, how do you think peripheral ports are done?
THANK YOU to this freaking genious right here!!!!! his point is said so go and J/B weld that bitch. just make sure you clean the area good and have a nice solid peace of metal to cover the hole up and j/b weld that metal peice to the hole. but be sure to put a good amount of it too
03-29-06, 03:52 PM
#47
Originally Posted by GUITARJUNKIE28
you must have missed physics class. it'd be more like drilling a small hole through a pane of sheetrock and filling that up with glue. this is a non-structural section we're talking about here. the intake section sees less stress than any other part of the motor.
come on guys, how do you think peripheral ports are done?
come on guys, how do you think peripheral ports are done?
03-30-06, 03:38 PM
#49
Originally Posted by GUITARJUNKIE28
so you wouldn't patch a hole in your drywall with plaster? you'd reframe your house.
you need to learn where the stress is, and where it's not.
you need to learn where the stress is, and where it's not.
