Hello all

I just did a swope of my own corrado (r32 enine in it lol but not finished) for my mates RX7 FD3S Efini type R ive been told but def a Efini

He hasnt used it in the last few months

so when he droped it off to me on a trailer

started up great went to 2000rpm
then slowly started to lower itself, but it only lowered to 1500. He told me take it for a spin as its been sitting and that clear it up and then go back to normal as with him used to idle about 800-900 rpm

Been using the car and the idle been getting worse i.e going up form 1500 rpm to 2000rpm in traffic and one fo the probs was the inlet to servo pipe as it was really cracked

Changed that over and now the car drops idle to about 1450 and only way to lower is using clutch (i.e foot on the brake car in gear and use clutch to lower it)

I def can tell its not a vacum leak as there is a solid idle and pulls fine and no loss of boost

and u can tell its something electrical that controling it/keeping the idle high

so does anyone have any clue what it could be or know of how i can diagnose the car i.e if u buy a tool that tells u etc?

thank you in advance

 

search under accelerated warm up system. Having trouble following you, but this sounds like normal. Start it in first with the clutch in.

 

sorry i misstype part of it

changed it now and ill search that

also what difference does it make starting the car with clutch in ?

 

ok went out and tied it but done same thing as always

when u start it

2000 drops to 1800 drops to 1500 drops to 1200 then climbs back upto 1400-1500 and stays there

 

I think the AWS was only for USDM cars. Went in combination with the precat.

I would look up the procedure for adjusting the idle, and maybe also adjust the TPS. The TPS procedure is in the 3rd Gen Archives (I think, its the post by Damian), and the idle stuff is in the factory service manual. You can download that from the sticky thread.

Dave

 

thanx for ur replies

so that u know starting it with the clutch in does make a difference

its only once you come of the clutch it either stays low about 1000 rpm of comes back up to 1200-1400

what does that mean?

but ill do the tps tomorrow as i read up on today looks easy job

and so that you know mines a Jap import with de-cat and airfilters so sounds lovely lol

 

The US models have an Accelerated Warmup System. It basically runs the car at 3000 for the first minute or two just to get the cats hot. It also wears hard on the engine. The trick to bypassing this insanity is to blip the throttle or start it in gear with the clutch in. That's what that clutch in discussion related to.

Your car should not have any of that - simply a normal warmup cycle by which the idle speed will start high (1500(?)) and work its way down to a normal 800rpm. If it's not coming down, it's probably a throttle/idle adjustment issue.

I also forgot to mention that the dashpot on the throttle can also affect things. I suggest running a search for dashpot and idle and you should get plenty of info.

 

Good point. I knew Japan didn't get the shaft, but I didn't know about anyone else.

 

Ok i def do have that warm up procedure

it does jump to about 3000 rpm then climbs back down

also checked the TPS and its perfect within range so no need to adjust

 

Well if this helps at all...I was having a ton of idle problems a few months ago...Checked everything...It ended up being the alternator...You might wanna get the chargeing system checked...

Thanks,
Shawn

 

oh ok would that affect the idle when its cold and hot?

as ive noticed when i took it out the other night

revs tend to keep about 1000-1200 rpm

but when i took it out today in heat i couldnt get the revs below 1400 rpm

 

You may also want to check your idle speed control solenoid. This is a bellows-type valve on the back side of the UIM. Sometimes things get stuck in the bellows and hold it open. This will cause your idle to be unnecessarily high.

 

see ive tried starting the car with idle valve unpluged still teh same and even running still teh same

car could be idling low it wil raise by itself

 

but even tonight took mate out in it and when got back idling high

used the clutch to lower the revs (foot on the brake using car in gear to slow the engine down)

and just sat there at 1000 rpm no probs until i touched the throttle again then went back up to 1400

 

vac leak, mis-adjusted air bleed under the elbow, faulty iac, tension in the throttle cable, has the throttle body coolant line been bypassed?

 

If you have something stuck in the bellows mechanism of the valve, unplugging it electrically will not change the problem. The only way to be sure is to pull the ISC off of the UIM and inspect.

 

Mine did that crap once. Then i unplugged the tps and pluged it back in. No more problem.

 

Another thing you might check if the car has not been used for months are both the coolant intake and outgoing pipes to the choke to see if they are clogged. It too me a while to find the problem but had much the same syntomps as yours added with engine dying out, white smoke and fuel in the oil. Basically the car was running as if never hot and so ecu was feeding extra fuel and kept rpms high on idel.

Luckily I found it in time now she is runnig fine.

 

mad_7tist - def no vac leak as its on -20 on boost gauge on idle and ive been told for 7 bar engine thats perfect

plus when it is idling at 1000rpm its perfect no jumping about etc

The throttle body coolant line hasnt been bypassed (yet as i think its that) reason i say that yesterday when i started it i push down on the lever that wax thing pushes on and u could feel it moving another lever but even thou the one i pushed on carried on u lost the other one once it reached its limit i guess

plus like i mention it can sit there on 1000rpm happly when i get it down and only two things make it go back up, either touching the throttle or heat form the engine idling

jd to rescue - totaly agree with u and ive pulled it off and thrown loads of injector cleaner through it, but the white thing that moves inside it is stuck there wheres (and im used to VW's here ) when there was a idle prob u used to take it off and if the internals didnt move u knew it was jammed, is there no way of checking if mines jammed or not? i..e take it of leave it still pluged in and when i put contact on ull see it move etc?

hsitko - ive already unpluged it and pluged it up and even checked the values with the link on this forum for TPS adjustments and its perfect and unpluging it hasnt made a difference

vellj001 - interesting point i might look into that when i get home what to i do run hard wire through it see if it is blocked? and if it is blocked the wax rod woudlnt work would it? where in mine it does come out but like i mention the lever it pushes on u can feel a 2nd mech working but goes past it.

Im strongly think ing of removing this warm up crappy system as i dont liek the way it revs it up from cold and i think you guys over there do this often? and doesnt affect the running of the car?

 

Just so you know when you engage the clutch slightly with the brake on your not changing the idle, your putting a slight load on the motor. That is not the same thing. Have you ched out the dashpot to see if it's sticking (should compress fully but at a slow rate) it's basiclly to keep the throttle plates from slamming shut when letting off the throttle quickly.

 

I dont sit there with the car in gear burning the clutch plate thats just damm stupid

like i said i used it to lower not hold but lower the idle and then take it out of gear come off the clutch pedal and leave it to idle at 1000rpm

Yes i know using the clutch to lower it is not clever but its to prove my point something is sticking and that i dont have a vac prob as it idles perfectly at 1000rpm

also yep like mentioned before all throttle stops are perfectly adjusted and working including the dashpot (im guessing thats the mushroom looking thing that sits on the same side as the throttle cable? that like u said slows the return down

 

The white bellows looking deal should move freely open with finger pressure and spring back when released. Be careful not to deform or puncture the bellows doing this as it is fairly thin plastic. If it will not move freely after cleaning then you may need to get a new ISC. It is a variable device meaning it moves to varying degrees of open and closed based on signals from the ECU. So just plugging and unplugging the valve will not tell you anything. I believe there is an omhs check that can be done, but the fact the bellows are (is?) not moving freely is a pretty good sign something is wrong.

 

yeah ive tried to move it even with a flat head and nothing

didnt put to much preasure just incase it broke but looks like i might have found my fault

going to pull it off agian and confirm its just stuck there

If i take it off and just turn ignition on and off should it move? buzz or do anything? without starting the engine?

again jd to rescue thank you very much for ur help

 

ok took idle valve off

and no i remember what it was doing

the plastic white over cover moves about 1mm back easily but then thats it nothing more its like thats all its movement

i pluged it back in and turn ignition on and was buzzing but noting moved in the actual insides

so not sure if thats normal but thought i would update

 

Well, let's think this through a minute and tell me what you can assess from your end.

Let's start with your original problem. You have a high idle--1400+. The reason you are getting a high idle IF THE ISC IS THE PROBLEM is because the ISC is sticking open. That means that the bellows valve is not fully closing against the far end of the opening. There is a spring-loaded piston on the inside of the bellows that moves it in and out. What I am concerned is happening is that the piston is not moving freely and, thus, causing the bellows to hang open. So when you push it down, does it spring back closed? That is the important action considering what your problem was to start with.

Others on here can correct me if I am wrong, but at normal idle, I believe the bellows valve is closed. The bellows only opens when a new load comes on at idle like the AC compressor or the fans. The bellows will then open slightly to advance the idle setting to compensate for the new load. Hence, if it is hanging open when no added load is present, it is going to cause a high idle condition like you described.