Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Ok, I've been fighting an oil pressure *possible* problem since Mazda touched my car about 4 weeks ago.

My question is, what is a normal pressure while cruising about 70 mph in 5th?

I just had my Oil Pressure Sender replaced, and I still see some erratic and higher pressure readings than I'm used to. I'm just wondering if what I'm seeing is now normal with the replaced sending unit or if I still have a problem.

Thanks

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Anyone? Nobody checks their oil pressure ever?

billyrohm

my gauge needle is normally at or around the line between 60 and 120.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

So under full acceleration you actually see it go up as high as 120 even when the car is warm?

Mine never did until I had some oil leaks repaired. This is what I'm wondering, if now it's normal and before it wasn't.

billyrohm

the gauge never gets to 120.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Hmmm, I'm still seeing the gauge go all the way up to 120 under hard acceleration even after the Oil Pressure Sending unit has been replaced.

Any ideas on what to look at next?

maxpesce

On my newly rebuilt 93 I get aprox 90psi crusing on the fwy. it will peg the guage @ 120psi at 4500+ rpm(even hot, cold 120 comes up at about 2500rpm). It is possible that your thermal bypass pellet (in the e-shaft) is bad, also I have been told that after market Oil filters may pop their bypass valve at pressures over 100psi, but the OEM Mazda unit has a much stronger bypass press valve.

MaxPesce - 93 Touring

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Thanks maxpesce,

I was told that as well about the Oil Filters. When Mazda had the car 2 weeks ago, they also installed a Mazda OEM Oil Filter, but it didn't help the problem.

I'll recommend the check of the bypass pellet to the mechanic today.

If you are seeing 120 PSI on your gauge at high RPMs while warm, are you considering that normal or are you investigating it as a problem as well?

ronarndt

Mahjik- Since the stock oil pressure sending unit and gauge are notoriously unreliable, you may want to check the *actual* pressure with a good mechanical gauge to see if you really have a problem. You can get a S-W or Autometer gauge for $20-40 at most auto parts stores or brand x kits for even less. You can temporarily remove your sending unit, connect the threaded adapter to the hole the sending unit came out of and run the capilary tubing into the interior of the car through the firewall or even just run it out over the fender and thru the window into the car. Drive and check the pressure and compare it with what is on the Mazda electrical gauge. The pressure comparison on my FD, even with a new sending unit, was off by about 15 psi at idle and about 20 at 4500 rpm. If it wasn't such a bitch to work behind the dash on these cars, I would put in a mechanical gauge permanently to replace the electrical one.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Thanks ronarndt,

I was assuming that the gauge was still calibrated correctly, but that could be a bad assumption.

Just on the off chance that it is still reading high, any other suggestions?

BrianK

I see ~120psi under hard acceleration at high revs as well. It's normal. I've seen around that pressure on other low-miles 7's I've test driven as well.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Briank...

I guess I'll let that one rest since it doesn't seem to be harming anything. Now if you can pop over to my air pump thread and help me there I'll be almost back into FD Heaven again.

user 84205

oil presure is different it the states, well the numbers
are at least.

DEPENDS= on the oil your using, how clean it is. HOW
full it is.. How cold your engine is and how cold outside.

ALL and ALL it doesnt matter. Just as long as it doesnt
sit on 0... If that happens any other time then when the
car is off, you have a problem