hi guys,
i have to replace my oil pan because it is damaged.
do i need to use a new gasket?
i read on a thread but i am not sure that it is better to instal the pan with silicone without the gasket.
can anyone please clear this?
thanks!!

 

-

 

No gasket, just sealant.

 

RTV sealant and oil pan brace, no gasket: http://banzai-racing.com/store/FD_oil_pan_brace.html

 

Check out this thread for a few good tips:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...easier+oil+pan

 

use plenty of sealant. if you buy a factory new engine, that is all they use, sealant, no gasket

 

Not for sure, but I think the FSM calls for a 3 to 4 mm line of sealant. I went around the bolt holes. Using too much can end up in your pick-up screen...which is something that has been an issue on some of the remain engines.

 

No



later

 

For the sealant use:

Permatex - The Right Stuff - Item #25223

Just go to your local parts store. They should have it. It is the most popular gasket maker used on this site for the oil pan. Can't go wrong installling an oil pan brace as well, like the one from Banzai. Got a Banzai oil pan brace on my FD.

 

hi guys,
thanks for the help.
i will use only the sealant. i am not sure that i can find the specific sealant here in greece. is it a problem if i use any silicone sealant for engine?
also, the screens inside the pan is removable or welded? i have an oil pan that is a slight distorted at the botom and i would like to straighten it up.
my original pan has a smal break beneath the oil level sensor bolts. this one is not distorted and is in better shape. can i weld or braze the break?,if yes can anyone advise how to do it?
thanks!!!

 

another question:
if i remove the subframe i will loose the alignment?
thanks

 

The type of sealant is important. I used Permatex Ultra Gray, and, now, 5 years later, my pan is still not leaking. Some other "gasket-maker" sealants are not strong enough (do not have enough adhesion or tear strength) to last in this application.

Dave

 

I have read threads that say that removing the sub-frame will possibly alter the alignment settings. Therefore I re-sealed my pan with the sub-frame in place.

However, IMO, if you mark the subframe location well before you remove it, any changes to alignment should be very small.

Also, quite accurate toe settings can be done with just a tape measure and a carpenter's square by marking position of tire front and rear outer sidewalls (1/2 way up the tire) on the floor and measuring with the tape. Caster could change a bit, but if you marked the sub-frame position you should minimize this.

Dave

 

"The type of sealant is important."

i will take that a step further and use the word ESSENTIAL.

you need to either locate Permatex "The Right Stuff" or something very similar. i do hear good things about a Toyota sealer that you can probably source thru a Toyota dealer.

you can either weld or braze your pan... it is just mild steel.

once you remove the pan you can easily straighten out the dents. the pickup screen can be cleaned and straightened easily.

i recommend you mark your suspension settings and after re-installing the pan and subframe have the car realigned.

less than an eighth of an inch toe in front. zero toe rear.
1.2 degrees negative camber front and rear
zero rear thrust angle
30 psi front tire pressure, 27 rear tire pressure set cold.

do not run the motor until 48 hours minimum after you install the pan. clean any sealer out of the pan bolt holes and ideally run a tap thru the holes. torque the bolts to 100 inch pounds. add sealer to the exterior areas where the pan and block mate.

good luck,

howard

 

have you guys finally started milling the grooves into the braces?

 

No, and we will not ever add it one. It compomises the design, as explained in these two threads, in great detail:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...oil+pan+groove

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...oil+pan+groove

 

there are many versions of this " right stuf" ?
all are presurized cans? it is a spray?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Permatex-The-Rig...item3a56589480

is this the same?

thanks

 

guys,
the right stuff is a presurized can and i cannot find any near me. is the "ultra black" the same ?
the ultra black is described as an RTV sealant.what is the RTv means?
thanks again

 

Ultra-black should be OK, IMO. I think it is the same as the Ultra-gray that I used successfully.

RTV means "room-temperature vulcanizing." In other words, it cures (hardens) at room temperature.

Dave

 

mazda has sealer also, 8527-77-739, along with toyota and honda. the right stuff is good too.

the 48 wait is REALLY REALLY important.

 

I need to get the oil pan brace

be careful to not get the right stuff on your clothes, it doesn't come off, it also doesn't work as a modelling agent, you can't make a mound of it and sculpt it with an x-acto knife.

 

For reals! Found out the hard way...there apparently is NO WAY to get that crap off...well other than burning the portion off and a touch of sewing would probably do the trick.
The black stuff should be good to go like DaveW said. IMO the 48 wait should be increased to 72.



~Shar

 

Yes, The Right Stuff is pressurized in the can.

No, it is not a spray.

It comes out like toothpaste but you don't have to squeeze it because it's already under pressure. Very easy to apply.

Yes the link you have shows the correct product. Remeber it's Permatex item #25223 if you want to shop for it elsewhere.

Steve

 

I think "The Right Stuff" is the best but no matter what you use be sure and clean the surfaces well with acetone or laquer thinner. Remove all traces of oil. Run all threads with a tap and install the motor mounts and torque at this time also.

 

guys hello,
it is imposible to find the right stuff. none ships it to greece.
do anyone of you know who ships these to greece or can help someway?
i can find the ultra black, gray and the blue i think.
can i use any of those?
thanks