So I started to notice a small oil leak coming from the oil level sensor a few days ago on my FD. I began to pull the oil level sensor out when one of the two top bolt heads sheared off.

My plan was to replace the o-ring that creates the seal between the pan and the oil level sensor mount plate. Of course now with the bolt head being sheared away I have an uneven clamp load and the oil continues to leak.

I'd like to drill out the sheared bolt, but I'm unsure if this is worth the risk???? Is there a chance for metal shavings (during drilling) to enter into the pan by way of the drilled and taped hole? I would assume that the drilled and tapped hole is not a thru hole into the pan, but regardless I'd like to verify before I begin drilling.

Any pictures of these drilled/tapped features as they enter the pan would be greatly appreciated.

A pic of the sheared bolt head

 

Wow, that's a tough one. If you removed the other 2 bolts and removed the sensor, does the broken bolt stick out enough to get something on it? If it sticks out enough to clamp something on, it might be possible just to screw the broken piece out - I've done that before.

I don't believe those bolts go through to the oil pan - if so, that would be a potential leak around the bolts. Biggest problem with drilling that out is just having enough room to work in - that's mighty tight in the car.

Push comes to shove, you could always just get a good used oil pan and swap it in, but an oil pan job is pretty tricky/time consuming.

Good luck!

Dale

 

1) Drain the oil

2) Take out the other two bolts and remove the sensor

3) Get some PB blaster and spray the bolt, I would let it soak for a couple hours and spray it again.

4) Get flat headed vise grips and clamp down on what's left of the broken bolt and try and remove it.

 

I wish I was lucky enough to say that the bolt was some what backed out before the head snapped. I'm pretty much working with nothing. If I were to remove it I'm confident that I would have to drill it out.

I feared that. I'm still somewhat hopeful that I can get in there with a drill so long as the tapped holes do not enter the pan.

 

Anyone with a picture of an oil pan already pulled??

 

I'm thinking I'm screwed.

 

Normally, bolts break off flush - have you removed the sensor and seen if the bolt is stuck out a bit?

Normally those 10mm bolts aren't that hard to extract. I've done it on a tranny before.

Dale

 

Dale I appreciate your help on this one.

I have removed the sensor and there is nothing to grip on to. This bolt broke off at the worst possible point.

 

The only option is to use a bolt extractor (looks like the horn on a unicorn). You will need to drill a small hole in the center of the broken bolt and insert the extractor. Your biggest problem is getting a drill in there without having to drop the engine carriage. I do not think it will be possible.

Unless you want to go to all that work, you may be better off leaving it alone so long as it is sealed and does not leak oil.

 

Stop...and take a dremel tool with small cutoff wheel ( use a regular cutoff wheel and wear it down about 1/2 way ) and slice across the broken stud to create a slot for a stubby screwdriver to get a hold of it. Cut across the flange a little if you have to

Tom

 

I appreciate all the advice. I plan on taking a look at it this weekend to see what all I can do. I'm still a bit hesitant to start drilling into the bolt without knowing what is on the other side. It can be difficult gauging just how far you are drilling.

Dremeling in a small slot just might work. Hopefully I get a new o-ring in time to take a look at it this weekend.

 

The bolt is a 10 mm shorty. Your going to need to get over being tentative about working on these cars. Your predicament is something that occurs almost any time you do significant work on the car. If it isn't a bolt snapping off, it is a solenoid nipple that breaks, or a connector that fractures or the wiring pulls apart, and on and on. I just pulled a motor on a 2nd gen over the weekend and snapped off the oil pressure switch and another itty bitty bolt. Cussed a little and then went ahead and tapped them out and made the repairs. I thought in the end that wasn't too bad for a 19 year old car. So just take a run at it and do the best you can. Next week it will be something else. Guaranteed!!

 

Well I finally got the replacement o-ring and found the time to take a second look at the problem. There were a few things that I found out. The three drilled and tapped holes are blind holes....they do not enter the pan. This was good news for me and there was plenty of clearance to get a small drill at the two top 10mm bolts. The bottom 10mm is a different story.

However, with the car on jack stands it was very difficult to get a punch started and placed center. I then noticed that the old o-ring had taken a pretty significant permanent set. I figured I would try and replace the o-ring with new and torque the remaining two 10mm bolts. With that done the leak has completely gone away and I figured I can still replace the sheared 10mm as soon as I can get the car up on a lift.