oil leaking at the rear of the pan
#1
Rotary Freak
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oil leaking at the rear of the pan
What do i need to do to fix this? I know to remove the oil pan the motor mounts have to come out. I have a set of polyurethane mounts i've been meaning to install but havent had the time or will. Anyways, if i do remove the oil pan, do i need a new gasket or can i re-use it? Would it work if i just remove the oily bolts and throw another bead of rtv on them?
I'm leaking oil but its not that much, i can live with it...i just rather not if i can help it. First time i'm doing this so any and all advise is welcome!
TIA
I'm leaking oil but its not that much, i can live with it...i just rather not if i can help it. First time i'm doing this so any and all advise is welcome!
TIA
#3
Racecar - Formula 2000
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Oil Pan Sealing Tips
#4
127,338 OEM, 11.5psi
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you have the same problem as a did. you might want to change out your motor mounts they get sqesssheee and the dont hold, because of were the oil pan sits, it gets pressed down by the block and then bens so oil seeps out. well thats what i was told
#6
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
DO NOT USE A GASKET!!! I had to reseal my pan a couple of different times, cause I messed it up the first time. You don't have to drop the subframe if you have a DP. Just jack the tranny up until it touches the tranny housing, first remove the motor mount bolts, this will give you clearance to unbolt the pan and oil filler neck(inside) and turn it to the right and wedge it out from between the engine and the frame. It works quite well, have done it many times. I had to sit the pan on the subframe and reach up and use my finger to spread the Right Stuff Gasket maker all around the lip of the pan and the engine housing where it meets up to, I then lifted the pan up and bolted it in, use new bolts (hardware store) and seal around the threads of the bolts, you also need to put extra gasket maker around the motor mount bolts, I used extra to be sure. Oh be sure to put extra on the lip where it meets up to the tranny and the engine, weak spot. I then attached the oil pan brace and torqued em down. I haven't had a leak since and I am using Mobil 1 Synthetic, it would have found the leaks if there were any. Hope that helps.
#7
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you also may consider a new pan too. That's what I had to do. And after numerous attempts to fix the leak I bought a new one and finally the leak was gone. I guess taking off bent it a little
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#8
Racecar - Formula 2000
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Originally Posted by sonix7
DO NOT USE A GASKET!!! I had to reseal my pan a couple of different times, cause I messed it up the first time. You don't have to drop the subframe if you have a DP. Just jack the tranny up until it touches the tranny housing, first remove the motor mount bolts, this will give you clearance to unbolt the pan and oil filler neck(inside) and turn it to the right and wedge it out from between the engine and the frame. It works quite well, have done it many times. I had to sit the pan on the subframe and reach up and use my finger to spread the Right Stuff Gasket maker all around the lip of the pan and the engine housing where it meets up to, I then lifted the pan up and bolted it in, use new bolts (hardware store) and seal around the threads of the bolts, you also need to put extra gasket maker around the motor mount bolts, I used extra to be sure. Oh be sure to put extra on the lip where it meets up to the tranny and the engine, weak spot. I then attached the oil pan brace and torqued em down. I haven't had a leak since and I am using Mobil 1 Synthetic, it would have found the leaks if there were any. Hope that helps.
#9
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
yes, I got a new pan, it is crucial that the lip of the pan is not bent at all, not one bit!! If you want to take the chance with the old one make sure the lip is flat as hell.
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