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Originally Posted by are-ex7
(Post 11918297)
I really want to run this setup on my car but I can't get the -10 oil filler neck.... IRP is sold out, should I get a series 5 steel neck fabbed up?
If you want someone to make one, I'd try Alex at Plazmaman, they do aluminium bends and he's an old rotary hand. If you want to retain stock cap, thread is 36x4, I'd suggest a speedflow cap instead for less hassle. I'd also say cans that store the oil rather than returning it to the engine, if you're doing any serious track work aren't much chop - a couple laps at wtac you were planning, yes, maybe not so critical. |
Originally Posted by ptrhahn
(Post 11918414)
I've used a ton of set ups, and there are a couple keys:
1. Enough capacity... I'd go for at least 1qt. if it's a track car on sticky tires that may potentially run with a completely full oil pan. 2. Being able to see how much is in the can 3. A large enough feed line and vent to relieve pressure (-10 is preferred) 4. Easy draining. That last one is why those GReddy style cans are a pain in the ass. Once it's full you need to take it apart. I went (finally) with a 1qt. Jaz can. It's large enough, has a -10 inlet, is "natural" plastic so you can see how much is in there without taking it apart or any complicated sight tubing, and has a drain petcock, so you can get the stuff out easily. I use their radiator overflow bottle too, to make room for brake ducts. |
Originally Posted by billyboy
(Post 11918578)
That's all the Caine/Uni-group engineering car uses.
If you want someone to make one, I'd try Alex at Plazmaman, they do aluminium bends and he's an old rotary hand. If you want to retain stock cap, thread is 36x4, I'd suggest a speedflow cap instead for less hassle. I'd also say cans that store the oil rather than returning it to the engine, if you're doing any serious track work aren't much chop - a couple laps at wtac you were planning, yes, maybe not so critical. |
Originally Posted by are-ex7
(Post 11919037)
That's an awesome looking engine bay, are running 2x -10 ports to the tank? Or just one ? does your tank have any internal baffling?
Thanks!... this may be the first time anyone ever liked my engine bay. It's just a single -10 from the filler neck to an unbaffled tank (here's a link to it): ..:: JAZ PRODUCTS ::.. It would be even more effective to get a vent on the other side of the engine... maybe in the future. |
This may be a dumb question but without the pcv or a catch can(oil filler capped), could the oil pan be under pressure?
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Not any more pressure than the dipstick will hold.
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I think you'd likely blow the dipstick and puke oil from there—at least on track. It has happened, and judging by how much oil I can get in my catch can, you'd have a real mess.
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I've seen this question asked a few times in this thread but with no answers yet.
Is there any way that you can do this with the stock twins? One hose from the filler neck and another hose from the other side of the block? With a filter on top of the catch can? |
it would be possible but a custom drain line would be needed from the secondary turbo to the drain with a tee branching up for the catch can.
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Originally Posted by silverTRD
(Post 12019970)
it would be possible but a custom drain line would be needed from the secondary turbo to the drain with a tee branching up for the catch can.
I'm probably better off just using a vented catch can with one hose connected to the filler neck. |
Well it depends I guess. If you're getting a lot of oil in your intake tract then it may be a huge help as opposed to the one vent line.
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Originally Posted by cib24
(Post 12019982)
Ok, that sounds like it isn't worth it on a street car that does 10 or so track days per year at 11-12 psi on twins.
I'm probably better off just using a vented catch can with one hose connected to the filler neck. If you can't wait, ask garfinkle |
Originally Posted by Monkman33
(Post 12020090)
I have one of these fittings made up. It will be for sale in August.
If you can't wait, ask garfinkle My next try on the stock twins is going to be to run the baconsports oil pan and then run with the oil up to the 1/2 way on the dipstick. I know that running it at 1/2 will greatly minimize what I saw in my catch can previously, but hated running the car that low on oil. The new pan will allow me to run at 1/2 on the dipstick but still have an appropriate amount of oil capacity. |
Originally Posted by Smokey The Talon
(Post 12020177)
interesting. As in you're making them for sale? or just had one custom made by David? Any pictures? Any risk of oil flow from the rear turbo causing an issue?
My next try on the stock twins is going to be to run the baconsports oil pan and then run with the oil up to the 1/2 way on the dipstick. I know that running it at 1/2 will greatly minimize what I saw in my catch can previously, but hated running the car that low on oil. The new pan will allow me to run at 1/2 on the dipstick but still have an appropriate amount of oil capacity. I can have my wife send me pictures of it if you're interested. I think I Paid $35-40 for it since it was his first one. |
I'd be interested in the pics. Did you ever get a chance to run it and test it? Just not sure how well the vent works on an active oil drain, but I also don't know how much oil actually drains out of the stock twins either.
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What size fuel hose do I need to use for the oil filler neck nipple to the catch can and the catch can to the primary intake elbow nipple? 3/8, 1/2, or 5/8?
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Originally Posted by Monkman33
(Post 12020381)
David made it.
I can have my wife send me pictures of it if you're interested. I think I Paid $35-40 for it since it was his first one. |
I just ran into this issue with my 2nd gen.
Got a breather tank hooked up to the pipe just below the oil filler base, and after the tank got filled all the way up to the inlet, it started spitting oil out. I should've drained it before the test at the track last week :awesome: Anyway, I think I am going to make my own fillerneck. Is there a difference between the 13B-REW oil filler base, and the one on the 13B-T? Do I have to make any fancy things inside the fillerneck besides a bung for the breather hose? Oh, and the 2nd engine has no return at the rear iron. Turbo oil return is at the front and its currently in use of the turbo :P |
One trick is a big line and big filter. A lot of people try to restrict the flow, and that has the effect of raising the pressure. Think about what happens when you put your thumb at the end of a garden hose.
Try a -10 line and big (2" plus) filter so it can vent the pressure. I used a 1 quart Jaz catch can, which is also see through and stainable so it's easier to use. It'll fill a bit on first run, then once you're down a half a quart, just leave it like that and it won't keep filling. |
Hi Damian, the photos have disappeared from your thread. I wonder if you could fix the links? Thanks!
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Originally Posted by Han_5010
(Post 12322789)
Hi Damian, the photos have disappeared from your thread. I wonder if you could fix the links? Thanks!
I will get the pic link back up and working in the next few hours. |
Originally Posted by damian
(Post 12322809)
Hey thanks for letting me know, great to see people are still using this info ;-)
I will get the pic link back up and working in the next few hours. |
Damian, thanks for putting together this guide. I have two questions for you
1. You said you didn't have to empty out the can for a whole day of track driving. That is great; however the catch can oil I've seen is mostly dark. Wouldn't it be beneficial to dump that oil out and just add new oil along the way? 2. Oil line that goes above transmission: How did you secure it? Is it ok for those braided lines to rub on metal parts? |
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