The Mazdaspeed made Carbon Fiber as well.

Their price was over $2000 for a CF hood. I saw one in person and and even though I have some bias , our hoods ARE better constructed. For less even!

 

Do you have any pictures of your hoods?

 

I will any {good vented} will always cool off the engine bay, Also I know if u guys are new to the Rotary world but all Rotary run hot and the 3rd run even much hotter than fb or the fc. Also alot of guy's say itknock off the intake temp I don't how? Cause once your intake build up heat it's goona be there unless if u use i/c cooler {like the aquamist} or u keep moving. Also I do have the mazdaspeed replicia hood and to me my engine bay has less heat the mazdaspeed hood. Also u can think of it this way the more heat u have coming out from the engine bay, The less part's u will have to replace. Like for example how many of u replace your engine harness already or better yet individual plugs like alternator or air pump? In my opinion what cause alot of the 3rd high maintenance is the heat that build up in the engine bay.

 

how the hell could they *not* breathe better at speed? I don't understand. You have air going in the front and a place for the air to leave the hood in the back. Either I am completely oblivious to some rule of aerodynamics or the hoods vent hot air at speed. I'd bet my butt that a vented hood is going to do more to cool the engine down than a radiator ever could

 

A little trick called Bernouli's principle, it is also the reason you can throw a curve ball with a ball. Just as lift is produced on a wing, the top of the hood(vented) air is moving faster than any air moving into the mouth of the car, the faster moving air over the hood creates(lift/vacuum) and pulls hot air out of the engine. This isn't opinion or argument it is Physical fact!
Art

 

TTT,
Not to argue your point but I have this problem. I am running a piece of cardboard covering half my radiator when temps get below 65 degrees F so the car will warm up to 180 Degrees. Note: I don't have a thermostat and run a mix of 40 below from problend and 25% antifreeze/distilled water.
Art

 

Why no thermostat? I thought that bringing the coolant up to operating temperature was precisely what they were designed to do?

 

That is the idea, however, with a fmic and road racing the engine temps raise very fast, and the thermostat restricts the flow of water through the water pump by almost 40%(flow tests showed an average of 37.4%) and in order to dissipate heat faster you need to flow water through the radiator faster....Soooo, you put a larger one off large 3 pass radiator(almost exactly like MazdaComp's first early models, before quantity took precidence over quality) and slow down the water pump slightly with an underdrive pulley so as not to cavitate tremendous amounts of air into the system and remove the "guts" of the thermostat and Voila! A cooling system capable of keeping the engine under 230 degrees F under full race boost conditions for 30 minute sessions in 105 degree July temperatures. I would rather the car run cold and modulate the lower temps than be worried about overheating in traffic or on the track!
Art

 

Mazdacomp recomends a gutted thermostat, rather then no thermostat.

I think the FD should have came stock with a vented hood. The prices are so insane though. I can get a vented carbon fiber hood for my Honda CRX for about $500.