xblazinlv

OK.....so I'm finally converting the car to non-sequential and have a few questions before I go cutting anything.


In the pictures attached below, I just wanted to verify what I'm going to do:


Pic 1: The manifold, I'm going to cut this flapper door completely off. Correct?

Pic 2: The manifold again, on this time I circled the section I will take out and tap once the flapper is off. Correct??

Pic 3: This is the pre-spool flapper i need to cut off or weld. Correct?

Pic 4: I am a little confused by this door..... it seems on most pictures there are only two bolts holding it down, and on some of the turbos I've seen this is not 100% secured down. Does this cover need to be 100% closed and secured?


That's it, thanks. I'm going to post pictures hopefully of my conversion step by step.

xblazinlv

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JhnRx7

iTrader: (12)

here is what i did, for the door on the manifold i cut that completely off, then once it is cut off there will be a hole and that gets welded closed. then for the flap on the turbos i took the pre-controll acutator off then held the flap completely open and welded it in that position so it is always open. for the fourth picture, i did nothing with that. the two empty holes are where the two long bolts go when you mount the turbos to the manifold.

xblazinlv

Gotcha....thanks for the help. I haven't decided if I want to weld my pre-control door open or just cut it off. I've heard positive things about cutting it off, probably safer than welding it too. Hmmm

BuckyFD3

Did you cut off the pre spooler flapper then, I'm doing mine as I type.

Or can anyone help, if it needs held open I'd rather machine it out which would be the same as holding it open.

BuckyFD3

Mine at the moment, oil is ATF by the way.

So should I chop this flap out??? And if so what about machining the the bridge out aswell. Easy done on the milling machine.

xblazinlv

I just welded the pre-spool flapper control arm on the outside of the manifold so it would be open 90% of the way.

I guess if you cut it, it creates un-necessary turbulence.

BuckyFD3

Cheers, I went the full hog and cut/milled the lot out.

xblazinlv

Did you cut out the separator in the turbo manifold in that last picture?

BuckyFD3

yea cut it out of the manifold and the turbo side. So it should flow better.

xblazinlv

Hmm....I've never heard of doing that before. I wonder if that will cause any un-necessary turbulence.


Let us know how that works out

BuckyFD3

Cant really see it causing any more turbulence, might lose a bit of low down power and a bit of extra lag. But I have a half bridge port and will run these turbos till its all sorted and ready for a big single.

Speedworks

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/non-seq-turbos-now-picture-how-505708/

BuckyFD3

I read that thread and got info from it. Soem things were a little unclear thats why I posted on here.

Speedworks

Yeah, it's not so hard to find theoretical info about this subject but the picture are nowhere to be found..


I'm still looking for the vac hose setup that goes with the FULL non seq setup like the one Jimlab put forward.

BuckyFD3

Photos do help alot, another thing that confused me was people were on about wastegates fro the 1st and 2nd turbo's. When I ended up taken it apart there is only 1.

Photos are better in the long run.

xblazinlv

I have the diagram, give me a sec and I'll attach it

xblazinlv

Non Sequential Vacuum Diagram:

Speedworks

^A+ many thanks. This is for the FULL non seq conversion yes?

Bucky, what do you mean tehre is only one waste gate? There are 3.

1. manifold flapper whcih you need to cut. Either remove and weld or just leave the flapper cilinder in there and spotwelf it on the outside.

2. wastegate on secundary turbo (the one behind the removable door). You can eiter spot weld it shut or open depending on your own theory about spool up times.

3. Primary turbo wastegate which needs to be machined and will be the only working wastegate remaining in the setup.

I'll be using a manual boost controler on this wastegate, because an electronic one is just a waste of money on this setup. A mechanical boost gauge will do just fine as it no longer has to reflect the quick transition boost drop.

CantGoStraight

There is only one wastegate, the other two you mention are not wastegates, when people say they have ported there wastegate there is only one involved and it is for both primary and secondary turbo's.

xblazinlv

Yep, only 1 wastegate, and two other flappers.

BuckyFD3

Thats what I mean, before taking the turbos apart and having a look myself, I thought there was 3 gates. But 2 of them arn't really gates. They look like gates but do different things.

I have just done this conversion till I run the rebuilt motor in and convert to a T78. Plus I was bored at the time

Speedworks

How do you like it compared to the seg turbo's? I'm still in the process converting because I don't have much time to work on it.

BuckyFD3

I bought the car with the engine blown, so i have never driven the car. Waiting for a couple of things to be delivered via post and it will be back together.

I drove a friend rx with seq turbos and it seems good, converted to poor mans non seq and he says its miles faster but there is a lot more lag bottom end. His engine is standard with bolt-ons but standard DP.

Speedworks

Acc the people who did the full conversion and with filters,DP and catback/cat replacement it should hit near full boost at 3200 rpm or in that range. That's fine with me, just watch your self how little time you spend driving the car under that rpm -> very litle.

Unless you want to drift at every corner in town I don't really see the necessity to have bosst at lower rpm. I think it should add to mileage as well because driving in 5th gear at 3000rpm should give you a speed between 60 and 70 mph, which is good for highway cruising.

Just wondering what ECU you will be using? I have PFC and I was reading a PFC tune file on this forum and got intriged by the injector staging.
I think a little modification should be in place with the non seq setup as boost will kick in at a slightly different rpm and will be constant till redline and not drop at 4500 rpm.