Also the hinges could be slightly out of alignment causing the door to sag ever so little. And that little bit if sag could result in harder closing door.
For example .. my driver side door is significantly harder to close VS passenger door. Just test it 1 at a time closed driver side and just try closing passenger door. Closed passenger side and close your driver side. With everything else closed and sealed of course

 

 

 

Interior pressure didn't matter on mine... It just didn't want to close. I had to replace the door receiver assemblies to fix mine.


​​​​​​​The only difference in receivers I could see was the replacements had the oem plastic coating on the latch hardware. It was worn off on the problem latches.

 

My driver door was difficult to close too although the plastic coating was still present. I disassembled the door and latch hardware, cleaned and re-greased all the linkages. Now the door is much easier to close, but it does require more force with the windows up, just not the herculean force it used to require. So, I recommend you overhaul your door hardware to significantly reduce the closing force necessary. Remember the inside of the door is basically exposed to the weather and after 25 years it is dirty and the grease, if it is still there, is dried up. While you are at it, replace all the little plastic clips that connect all the various lever rods inside the door most of them are worn and/or brittle. I got my clips at clipsandfastners.com

 

 

i think it was dale that mentioned it in one of the older threads
maybe he can clarify.

best way to go about it is to buy new hinges and checkers
they are not that expensive however, the lower hinges is NLA lol

 

If the door is hitting on the frame, you may just need to re-adjjust the door. LONG time ago I worked on a 93 R1 that had a sagging driver's door. Opened the door, put a block of wood and floor jack under the door, then loosened the hinges and brought the door up a bit. A few iterations of that and the door was lining up right and closed fine.

I think the hinges are pretty hardy, it's just things getting out of adjustment. But if all else fails you can probably get used hinges fairly cheaply.

Dale

 

 

Absolutely NOT!

We need to keep him online and slaving away in the garage...

 

Lol at this old thread. Good to know wanting to make the doors less annoying to close is being "lazy". My definition of lazy is having the ability to fix or improve something and choosing not to because its difficult or there's not a drop-in solution.

 

It should be apparent if you have an issue with a misaligned latch or sagging door. Otherwise I've learned to firmly close my door keeping a steady force on latch all the way to close...and not just swinging as I walk away. I think it's reassuring in a way that the car is so tight. I remember back in the 70's and 80's when frameless door glass was all the rage. Big heavy doors on brass bushings and it seemed like crap rattled and leaked air constantly. These cars on the other hand are 25+ years old now and we're complaining about them?

 

I've had a bit of the opposite problem with my driver's side door actually, once it's closed it takes 2-3 times the effort of the passenger side door to open, my first thought is some of the weather stripping could be getting jammed but it looks fairly clean all the way round and the door doesn't appear to be sagging or misaligned. Opening it from the inside is easy as anything so possibly a latch or handle issue now that I think about it

 

Is it hard to pull the handle from the outside? Probably just needs some grease, they do stick after a while.

 

 

The handle definitely requires more effort to move compared to the passenger side and both the internal and external locks are very stiff as well - I'll start by giving it a good cleaning/lube and see if that sorts it out or if I'll need to dig a bit deeper.

 

Check out this thread for a very effective grease for the door parts. (Yea, I know I'm hyping my own thread )

 

Good find on the Clipsandfasteners door rod clips! Are both p/n used on FD?

 

If wanting to improve every aspect of the car to suit your needs and fancies is complaining, then I guess so! Why be satisfied with it because its 25 years old? Now, will I be spending lots of time to improve this minor annoyance now or instead work on putting my rebuilt engine back in my car..? I'll let you guess.

 

If the door slamming really bothers you, get some late spec door seals. They're thinner and a different design, the result is doors that close with a fairly gentle push. I own a 1992 and a 2002 FD and the difference is very noticeable when switching between the two.

 

Great tip on the late model seals.
You wouldn't have part numbers, would you?

​​​​​​​Some vendors will sell older stock as current.

 

I'll check the differences between my two cars and get you a list of part numbers in case you need more than just the one seal per side .

 

Here is the late spec inner seal, rest of the seals look the same across models.



Part numbers are:
Left: FD0168912B-02
Right: FD0168911B-02

HTH
Tom.

 

Thanks for the info whats that rubber patch thing

also does anyone know where and how we can order oem parts from japan ?

 

Optional extra on JDM FD's. Somewhere to plant your hand when getting out .