DairokutenMaoh

iTrader: (4)

Hi all, my FD won't crank, I went through forums and tried most of advice and I'm about to run out of ideas here. The car never had starting issue, and yesterday after a long drive, I turn the car off for gas stop, and it wont crank again when I turn it on. No crank, no click. Car is throwing CEL code 2, the crank position sensor NE, but I'm not sure how to investigate further at this point.

Things I tried :
- jump the factory immobilizer
- jump clutch switch
- Tested battery/Starter (good)
- Tested voltage at starter during ON and crank (12 volt)
- Jumped starter on the car with harness connected ( fuel pump comes on, no crank)
- Jumped starter off the car ( solenoid kicks and starter cranks)
- Push start the car (engine turned on right away)


Spec :
1993 Rx7
- stock harness
- stock engine
- stock rats nest
The car is mostly stock besides racing beat down pipe and cat back

Any input is appreciated

Sent from my iPhone 6 using RX7Club

Funkspectrum

iTrader: (5)

Security relay?

86boy

iTrader: (1)

Main engine fuse?

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

Get out the FSM and read to learn, or else send it to Mazda.

DairokutenMaoh

iTrader: (4)

Did some more investigation today, and I found that the voltage from ignition is only 8 volt when cranking. So I looked up the petit starter booster diagram and made myself a booster based on it. Pretty simple, but the starter still won't crank.

I applied 12volt at the ignition, and the starter turned. So at this point, I'm positive the no crank issue is somehow related to the iginition.

DairokutenMaoh

iTrader: (4)

You mean learn to read? I will get started on it tomorrow, I just learned how to type today too.

DairokutenMaoh

iTrader: (4)

How do I find out if it's bad or not?

DairokutenMaoh

iTrader: (4)

I tried security relay by jumping the blue connector that was connected to the relay at the driverside quarter panel.

Sideo

Just look through the top and see if its burned or if you want you can use a multimeter to see if it has 12v on both sides. but blown main fuse definately would stop it from cranking.

86boy

iTrader: (1)

/\ what Sideo stated. Usually when it blows you have no voltage to anything... Although it could def. Cut back current and/or voltage if its slightly blown. There should be a thin piece of metal you can see going form one side to another, and if its blown you you should see that piece broken. It should...note I say SHOULD I haven't looked for it yet on my FD... Should be on next to the positive battery terminal on that little bank of fuses there. Should have a site glass to see the fuse through the top of it. Also those fuses are actually bolted down not the conventional slide in fuses. Should be somewhere around an 80 amp fuse could be higher or lower. Like I said I haven't looked at the FDs main fuse yet.


Had that happen to my corolla when the alternators charging wire... Decided to get hot and melt the plastic it sat on and short out. Started to lose different thing. I first lost my dash lights then I lost my headlights then I lost my stereo then I . st pulled over as I knew something was really wrong. After I shut it off nothing worked no crank no click no Nada lol. Granted my issue went south pretty fast, but the main engine fuse controls quite a bit for providing power.

TangoHelo

Not sure if you solved this issue yet, but I had the same exact thing happen to me and pretty much took the same initial steps. While I was jumping the clutch switch, that is the one aft of the clutch that allows the plunger to extend out from the switch, I found some pieces of hard rubber/plastic on the floormat.
Turns out this was the insert that resides in the circular aperture of the arm coming off the clutch pedal assembly and depresses the plunger of the clutch switch that's located forward of the clutch coming off the firewall.
That switch disables the starter when the clutch is not depressed, which is the safety feature requiring that the clutch be to the floor in order to start.
So that plunger was just going right through the hole of that arm, and the starter reacts as if the clutch is still up.
I took a couple small felt furniture sliders my wife had bought, trimmed one to fit snugly in the hole, bonded it to the other one and epoxied it in. Car started right up, problem solved!
Not sure if you can order that insert from Mazda, but a trip to the harware store should have you back on the road in no time.
Hope this helps!

FD7KiD

iTrader: (8)

PICTURES
hey guys, do you think you could please post pictures to reference what your talking about. that way future owners who aren't familiar with the system can have an idea where to look and how it looks like, it would be extremely helpful for visual learners like myself to know whats up, if anything think in terms of "make this thread into an awesome right up to a specific problem" thanks in advanced

-Ricky.

TougeMonster

iTrader: (1)

This recently happend to me on my FC, turned out to be dirty starter connections and battery grounds