Nitrous on a fd?
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Nitrous on a fd?
Question, what would have to be done to make it safe to run nitrous on an fd. I have a direct port nx wet kit in the car but have been told not to use it. Its only a 35 shot. I have been told it will blow the motor. Is that true or can it be used
If it cant at least ill have a nice nitrous purge lol
If it cant at least ill have a nice nitrous purge lol
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lots of people say no to nitrous on fd's but i wonder how many have actually run it. Every fd i know of that has run nitrous does very well with it.
You need the supporting mods though
ie: dont run pump gas, use a higher ocatane fuel,.
turn your boost down about 2 psi to compensate for the increase in boost pressure with the nitrous (unless thats what yoru going for, then be properly tuned to handle the couple extra)
retard the timing about 2 degrees so nothing goes crazy in their.
I havent run my nx kit on my car yet, but if i ever have enough money to break **** i def will.
(rear axles, trannys, blowing front housing off engine, ect )
You need the supporting mods though
ie: dont run pump gas, use a higher ocatane fuel,.
turn your boost down about 2 psi to compensate for the increase in boost pressure with the nitrous (unless thats what yoru going for, then be properly tuned to handle the couple extra)
retard the timing about 2 degrees so nothing goes crazy in their.
I havent run my nx kit on my car yet, but if i ever have enough money to break **** i def will.
(rear axles, trannys, blowing front housing off engine, ect )
#4
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You might be able to do it if you calculate the stoich so that with the extra oxygen provided by the 35shot, you're still getting enough fuel to stay in a reasonable AFR (say, 12:1). But the bigger the shot, the more rich you'll be running the rest of the time. If you have a programmable ECU that supports multiple maps, maybe it would work if you had a juiced and non-juiced map. But the fact is that it takes time for bad tuning to eat a piston engine, and many nitrous users have or did have bad tuning at one point (including the tuning period itself). Any mistake will blow a rotary - it's much easier to simply mess with boost.
Dave
Dave
#6
nitrous on an FD is no different to increasing your boost. A car needs a few things to make it produce more power - more air, and more fuel. This is universal for rotaries and piston engines. Nitrous just creates more oxygen.
Just make sure you have the right proportion of both and youll be fine...It is true though, there is less margin for error on a 13b.
Just make sure you have the right proportion of both and youll be fine...It is true though, there is less margin for error on a 13b.
#7
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I have a wet kit. Honestly i cant break anything, and the nitrous is operated by the throttle. Would it be safe to run a 35 shot?
here is my dyno
http://www.681network.com/rx7pics/dynorun.jpg
would it be safe to run it, and btw i would plan on using it untill i got my a megasquirt
here is my dyno
http://www.681network.com/rx7pics/dynorun.jpg
would it be safe to run it, and btw i would plan on using it untill i got my a megasquirt
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#9
Tony Stewart Killer.
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a 35 shot lol
why risk it?
250 rwhp huh. Why don't you make sure you have a full exhaust first. You'll get huge gains when adding a downpipe and a midpipe --either one. If you can also raise the boost a little you'll pick up a lot of power. I don't even see where you mentioned the ecu you're running. If it's the stock one please just part out your car. I think you may be running a couple psi more than stock though according to your dyno. You really need to post all of your mods man
why risk it?
250 rwhp huh. Why don't you make sure you have a full exhaust first. You'll get huge gains when adding a downpipe and a midpipe --either one. If you can also raise the boost a little you'll pick up a lot of power. I don't even see where you mentioned the ecu you're running. If it's the stock one please just part out your car. I think you may be running a couple psi more than stock though according to your dyno. You really need to post all of your mods man
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The engine was replaced 95k and turbos (11k on new engine and turbos) ive been told it is a mazda reman, not sure if it is totally stock or different. I know the guy that put it in. (bought it after all of this)
3 inch turbo back exhaust, greddy frount mount kit, greddy air intake, nx direct port nitrous system(never used), walboro fuel pump,unorthadox racing pulleys
The exhaust has a new high flow cat.
I dynoed 250 whp on a 100 degree day driving 50 miles to the dyno and no cool down time. I have stock boost. It is the stock ecu but a megasquirt will be put on and tuned soon for practically free. (400$ isnt free but pretty good)
When i get the megasquirt the boost will prolly go up during races and stuff. I was just wondering just because it was on the car when i got it, pretty much for show, never used. I at least want it to be usable, as long as it will not break anything.
3 inch turbo back exhaust, greddy frount mount kit, greddy air intake, nx direct port nitrous system(never used), walboro fuel pump,unorthadox racing pulleys
The exhaust has a new high flow cat.
I dynoed 250 whp on a 100 degree day driving 50 miles to the dyno and no cool down time. I have stock boost. It is the stock ecu but a megasquirt will be put on and tuned soon for practically free. (400$ isnt free but pretty good)
When i get the megasquirt the boost will prolly go up during races and stuff. I was just wondering just because it was on the car when i got it, pretty much for show, never used. I at least want it to be usable, as long as it will not break anything.
#11
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Originally Posted by bheiman
The engine was replaced 95k and turbos (11k on new engine and turbos) ive been told it is a mazda reman, not sure if it is totally stock or different. I know the guy that put it in. (bought it after all of this)
3 inch turbo back exhaust, greddy frount mount kit, greddy air intake, nx direct port nitrous system(never used), walboro fuel pump,unorthadox racing pulleys
The exhaust has a new high flow cat.
I dynoed 250 whp on a 100 degree day driving 50 miles to the dyno and no cool down time. I have stock boost. It is the stock ecu but a megasquirt will be put on and tuned soon for practically free. (400$ isnt free but pretty good)
When i get the megasquirt the boost will prolly go up during races and stuff. I was just wondering just because it was on the car when i got it, pretty much for show, never used. I at least want it to be usable, as long as it will not break anything.
3 inch turbo back exhaust, greddy frount mount kit, greddy air intake, nx direct port nitrous system(never used), walboro fuel pump,unorthadox racing pulleys
The exhaust has a new high flow cat.
I dynoed 250 whp on a 100 degree day driving 50 miles to the dyno and no cool down time. I have stock boost. It is the stock ecu but a megasquirt will be put on and tuned soon for practically free. (400$ isnt free but pretty good)
When i get the megasquirt the boost will prolly go up during races and stuff. I was just wondering just because it was on the car when i got it, pretty much for show, never used. I at least want it to be usable, as long as it will not break anything.
how are u controlling boost currently?
#12
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Originally Posted by bheiman
It is the stock ecu but a megasquirt will be put on and tuned soon for practically free. (400$ isnt free but pretty good)
When i get the megasquirt the boost will prolly go up during races and stuff. I was just wondering just because it was on the car when i got it, pretty much for show, never used. I at least want it to be usable, as long as it will not break anything.
When i get the megasquirt the boost will prolly go up during races and stuff. I was just wondering just because it was on the car when i got it, pretty much for show, never used. I at least want it to be usable, as long as it will not break anything.
The stock ECU cannot handle more than a little bit of modding, and from the way it sounds your existing mods are probably already too much. Find out exactly if that's a rechipped stock ECU or what (they look somewhat alike unless you read the labels). If you inject juice or increase boost without retuning and close monitoring you're probably gonna break something. Something like that engine and those turbos (turbos don't flow chips of apex seal very well), which cost a little more than $400.
Dave
#13
Tony Stewart Killer.
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you are a badass if you can get away with adding the nitrous
give credit to some of us on here, we've already been through it
You can't even run the mods you have right now safely on the stock ecu.
Get a pettit unlimited ecu leave the boost at 10-12 psi and don't touch anything else.
give credit to some of us on here, we've already been through it
You can't even run the mods you have right now safely on the stock ecu.
Get a pettit unlimited ecu leave the boost at 10-12 psi and don't touch anything else.
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Originally Posted by GUITARJUNKIE28
if you're gonna do nitrous, don't be a wussy. a 35 shot isn't enough to make much of a difference.
#20
i dont know why you guys are going on about upgrading his ECU to run nitrous (is that what you are saying?)
He has a WET kit which means it injects the extra fuel as well as nitrous. If he is running ok now with what he has (which it sounds like he is, albeit hanging by a thread) then a wet nitrous kit may actually help matters as he can jet it to add the extra fuel required.
A yes- whoever said 35hp will see 50whp is correct, and i wouldnt suggest running more than that in a single hit without a progressive controller, unless you want to put excessive strain on your engine mounts/drivetrain when you flick the switch.
He has a WET kit which means it injects the extra fuel as well as nitrous. If he is running ok now with what he has (which it sounds like he is, albeit hanging by a thread) then a wet nitrous kit may actually help matters as he can jet it to add the extra fuel required.
A yes- whoever said 35hp will see 50whp is correct, and i wouldnt suggest running more than that in a single hit without a progressive controller, unless you want to put excessive strain on your engine mounts/drivetrain when you flick the switch.
#22
he still needs the ecu cause when he shoots the nitrous, hes gonna gain some boost, maybe 2 more psi?? i dunno, which means that even if he has a wet 35 shot, hes gonna need more fuel. un less you get a fuel pressure regulator and turn that up a little to compensate for the extra boost youll get, i along with everyone else recommend that you get an ecu. preferably a Power FC or Haltech, then a good tune. dont run the risk of not getting an ecu. ive got an Apex'i intake, dp, mp, and cat back, on the stock ecu. needless to say, i blew a seal and screwed up my turbos. im now paying a little over 10k to get it fixed. DONT MAKE THE SAME MISTAKE.
#23
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Trust these guys man, they know what they are talking about. Your at a point in your car where nitrous isnt the best idea to make hp. You are better off getting a standalone like power fc and getting it tuned professionally. From there you can turn the boost up a bit and extract more power, and it will be safer then running the nitrous. You also need to consider an upgraded fuel system regardless. There is a lot of power to be had without the use of the spray. If your not satisfied after that and have someone professional tuning the car, then by all means add the spray. It will add more power to a more modded car by the way. This is due to the cooling of the intake charge. Good luck, and i hope you take our words for it.
Adam
Adam