how much longer do you got your warrenty for?

 

Nitrous is detectable..

Because of the sulphur in automotive nitrous. All they have to do is test your oil and see if there is any sulphur in it. To avoid this, change your oil before you return it for the warranty work, or use medical grade (no added sulphur) nitrous.

I hear the reason they added the sulphur is to prevent people from huffing it..

Also, all the other suggestions of switching intakes, avoiding any holes drilled for nitrous lines, etc. are right on and great advice.

P.S. I HIGHLY doubt anyone is going to test your oil for sulphur.. I'm just letting you know that it is a possibility.

 

i still have about 13K miles, and as for the sulfur in the nitrous, i know some shops that sell medical nitrous.

 

Hey zoog have you ever thought about nitrous? I had my dry kit install but kinda scare of using it because people in this forum kinda discourge me of using it.

 

i've had nitrous on my previous car but it was a wet kit, i don't think a dry kit can be as safe as a wet kit unless you have enough fuel (stock injectors can't supply enough fuel with a dry shot and 12-14 psi).
i remember seeing a website and it had 3rd gen with a Zex dry 50 shot on it and the owner said that it ran good.
someone here might know the web page.

 

Yeah I looked it up at rob robinette site but I don't heard any fd in this forum use it, so that why I ask?
Thank you for your time.

 

do a search on nitrous. you'll find a lot of good info here.
its funny that i asked the same question about a year ago and someone told me that nitrous was for big boys with single turbos.

 

With my mods do you think it can handle a dry 50-75
shot, or wet 50-75 shot, doesn't either matter with
the mods on your car.

Just so you know i know not too much about NItrous!



My Rx-7 Modifications

INTERIOR:

- 8pt Roll cage
- Racing Seats
- Simpson 5pt Seat Belt
- Gauges 3
- Huge Tach (Need Bigger Because of 12,000Redline)
- Apexi Power FC
- Rear Battery Relocator
- Blitz Turbo Timer
- Short Shifter
- Camera Mount on Roll cage
- HKS EVC Boost Controller (want the EVC 5)
- Gutted Rear end


EXTERIOR

- Limo Tints All Around
- Fittipaldi 18” Rims W/ Nitto Tires
- Rear Wing
- Front Fog Lights
- Have Veilside BK but not installing

Engine Bay

- New Engine 2mm Heavy Duty seals, Street port, and race bearings
- Greddy T-88 Single Turbo kit
- Greddy 3-Row Front Mount Intercooler
- Greddy Elbow with Bov Flange
- 1300 CC injectors All Around (primary and Secondary)
- Performance Fuel Pump
- 3-Bar Map Sensor
- Greddy Underdrive Pulley Set
- Custom Dump Exhaust With a 5in Downpipe
- Single Turbo Conversion Block off Plates
- No Cat
- Fuel Regulator

MOD TO COME BY MAY 2003

- Fluidyne Radiator
- New Rear End (Type not known)
- New Transmission
- Electronic Dump Valve
- More Gauge
- Chrome Parts Everywhere
- Possibly Nitrous ?

 

dude how the hell are you not happy with 360hp?? you dont need nitrous your just looking for trouble, dont use nitrous, i rather have 300rwhp than to put nitrous, blow up my car, and then have a huge argument with a company about warranty. Theres really no reason to go through all trouble for somethin that you do not need.
thats just my opinion if you want you can go ahead and do nitrous but like i said... you might regret it.

 

Zooq,

Who/what kind of warranty do you have?

Anyone,

I have a bad o-ring and am gonna need a rebuild. Will my warrany cover it? I have "Buyer's Choice". Familiar with it? According to the pamphlet, it covers the cooling system. But, it says by mechanical failure, water pump, thermostat and mixture control valve. Should it be covered will they have it rebuilt or will it be a reman. Feedback would be appreciated. Thanks.

-HeX