devlman

iTrader: (13)

I don't think anyone explained that FD refers to the VIN on 93+ RX7s. All these VINs start with JM1FD... (as yours should ). Second gen 7s are FC and first gens are FB for the same reason.

Nice pickup, by the way. Keeping the damn thing cool is key, so make sure you have a temp gauge. The intercooler will help, as would a bigger radiator. I run my fans all the time and sit at about 83 celsius without fail 'cause I'd rather spend a couple hundred on worn-out-fan-motor replacement than a few grand on a rebuild.

Enjoy

devlman

iTrader: (13)

Whoops, typo. that's JM1FD

devlman

iTrader: (13)

...and for some reason that reposted like twice so i'm gonna just stop now.

Androidmj

oh also, since your going to be modding your intake and exhaust paths with a new intake, intercooler, downpipe and catback, you definately need some sort of new ecu, either a reprogrammed one (such as a pettit or M2 stage 3 ecu) or a reprogrammable one such as the Apexi Power FC with commander, UNLESS you plan to keep your boost at or under 10psi, which for some reason i get the idea that your going to go above that.

highest safe psi for stock ecu is 10. With your downpipe, exhaust, and intercooler in your boost will increase and you will likely experience some boost spike or creep so you need a controller as said before...Highest safe psi for reprogrammed or reprogrammable ecu is around 14, 14.7 if your gonna really push it. Anywhere higher than that and your going to need some fuel system work and likely getting new turbos.

i would definatley suggest
new radiator (Koyo or fluidyne are radiators of choice by most here)
New AST (pettit makes an aluminum one for $140) the stock one tends to leak and if you aren't watching your temp gauge all the time you will need a new motor or Rebuild
Downpipe will help cool the enginebay, but also add hp
hose job Only when you have boost issues and are prepared for a long couple days of learning and cussing
NEW FUEL FILTER! can't stress that one enough, you will definatly cuss your brains out when u attempt this
New plugs (change them from the bottom, its much much easier, u will see what i mean when ur under there
Temp guage or linearize the stock guage http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/G...structions.pdf

Next, since you already bought the greddy intercooler I'm assuming you have the greddy Elbow
This will require you to do something about the AWS (automated warm up system) hose that is hooked up to your stock intake elbow. I plugged mine, you can also leave it hanging but it will leak oil, or you can eliminate the AWS with block off plates. I guess you can reroute it but I don't see the point...The AWS revs the car up to 3000rpm when you start a cold engine, blipping the throttle will lower it. This is only for emissions requirements and I believe causes excessive uneeded wear to your engine.

Next, I don't know much about the greddy intercooler, but it will likely require you to install a new air intake just because the stock one (which is really the same if you fit it with a new K&N filter) is too big for most aftermarket intercoolers.
good intakes are M2 intake box (will likely have to get it used, but it is the intake of choice of a lot of members), crooked willow or rx7fashion intake box, Pettit intake, there are others but i have no experience with them.

About the Boost controller, if you can find a Greddy Pofec B spec I that will do fine, but it is easier and usually cheaper to buy the Profec B spec II, which works using the same logic as the first.

Last, People have told you that coolant seals going is a large reason that our engines need rebuilding, which it is (which will run you anywhere from around 3000-6000+, unless you rebuild it on your own and install it on your own, which will still run you around 1000).
HOWEVER, another big killer is boost spiking and running lean (hence the need for a boost controller and new ECU) This will cause detonation and will blow your apex seals (seals on the rotors in the engine). Rotaries cannot handle detonation even close to as well as a piston engine can. Blowing apex seals is really bad because they can take out your turbos and mess up your rotor housings on their way out.

I think thats enough for now.....

fd3s_rx7

iTrader: (13)

www.hosetechniques.com has some real good silicon vac. hoses.

I would get a downpipe if I would you. Get a cold air intake, M2 makes one of the best out there.

XSTransAm

I know everyone says you should do the hose job for reliability, But honesly IMO if the car is running fine i wouldent touch it. UNLESS your planning on having a professional do it. I did mine myself, broke 3 soleniods and the car ran worse then ever afterwards. It took me about 16 hours and I am NOT a novice mechanic. I went parellel after that cause I was sick of it.

If it aint broke, dont fix it!

revsteve

iTrader: (6)

CRX7,

My goals are similar to yours - reliability all the way. I just got my FD 3 months ago and am in the midst of completing the reliability mods.

I am of the opinion that I would rather have my FD for the next 25 years and have it be "quick" then have it be "fast" and have it for the next 5.

As per reliability - and to recap - heat heat heat. Avoid the heat. If you have to put an bock of ice on your engine to keep it cool, do it. You will spend a lot less money on ice than on a new engine.

Downpipe rids you of the often faulty pre-cat, an aluminum AST (Air Seperation Tank) replaces the plastic stocker that cracks and leaks coolant (so therefore more heat) are the only "musts".

The radiator and intercooler are nice too but then you have to start managing the boost system a lot more carefully than w/ the boost gauge. A water temp gauge is probably the only other gauge you need.

Silicon hoses will eventually be put on just by sheer wear & tear - the heat makes the vulcanized rubber hard and prone to cracks. Silicone does not suffer that same fate. When you replace the hoses make sure they do a tie wrap job so they dont come off as you mess w/ the engine.

Oh yeah - one more "must". A daily driver - keeps the miles low and the reliability waaaay up!

Lastly - change your oil right when you get it, again 500 miles later. If the car has been sitting for a while thats a must.

Andrew

iTrader: (1)

Forget Hose Techniques. They're overpriced, and their kit assumes you want to rice out your car by covering everything including your hood prop.

Go to http://www.bakerprecision.com for your hose. There's plenty of info on the forum about vacuum lines.

CRX7

no i dont want to rice it out, also, thanks for the pile of info, there is enough here to keep me busy for a while, but i have come to realize that i am gonna need to expand the budget a little. How likely is it that those coolant seals will blow, is this a common problem?

-Kinda a couple dumb questions from your local honda idiot here, but how is the ignition system set up, coil or distributor or other.

-How much would it cost me in parts to replace the coolant seals and where are they.

Again, thanks you for all the very helpful and great information.

diablone

iTrader: (2)

Coolant seals are inside the engine, and will require a rebuild to replace. $4000+ for a proper rebuild.

Andrew

iTrader: (1)

A standard rebuild should not cost nearly that much. You could probably buy all new rotors and housings for that much.

You could to a thorough rebuild for less than $2k.

rynberg

I've never seen a reputable rebuilder charge less than $2k for a "standard" rebuild. New rotor housings are $1000 (for both). That price is not counting R&R of course.

Andrew

iTrader: (1)

Oh, you're having someone bend you over. I didn't realize that. :-)

jdhuegel1

Post pics of the CRX.

Cihuuy

Hmmm... post pix of the Rx

CRX7

I just took a few of both, i will post them tonight