im getting a 94 rx7 tt and ill have about 10 to 15 grand to spend on mods any reccomendations on a good setup to go for open to anything

 

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=28002

 

Helluva good start. Keep 7k in the bank earning interest, trust us on this one. Change ALL fluids, plugs and filters. Start from square one so you don't have to second-guess the previous owner's work. For immediate reliability, do the fan mod, hose job, replace/eliminate the AST, get a downpipe and boost guage. That's basically the Stage I "BRU"(Basic Reliability Upgrade), plus or minus a few things others can recommend. Stair-step your mods and do one at a time. Oh yeah... Congratulations!

 

A search on the topic would tell you much more, but I am feeling generous.

1. Go to my site. The link is in my sig below. Go thru it.
2. Go to my links page and hit those sites too.

Okay the first thing you need to do is order a boost gauge. You'll need one to make sure the turbos are operating properly. Also pick up a cheap vacuum/pressure test gauge from a local auto parts store. There are many opinions on whether on not Autometer (the cheapest) is accurate, but I've found them to be accuarte enough. I prefer the steering column mount myself. This is a nice way to go. http://www.rx7.com/cgi-local/3catalog.cgi?cat=12&part=1 IT500303 RE Amemiya Steering Column Mount (w/ RE Amemiya 52mm Boost Gauge) $349.99

While you are waiting do a few 40-70 runs using the specific intructions here: https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...5&pagenumber=1

This will give you a cheap, quick and dirty base line to measure your future mods against.

Your second mod should be either remove or replace the Air Seperator Tank because they fail notoriously and cause the motor to overheat and DIE. http://www.rx7.com/cgi-local/3catalog.cgi?cat=16&part=2
I prefer to replace the until because it allows you about 1/5 liter more coolant in an already indequate cooling system. I'd suggest getting a better radiator:
http://www.rx7.com/cgi-local/3catalog.cgi?cat=16&part=1

On to performance with a stainless steel dpownpipe, Bonez hi flo cat and a cat back.
One of if not the best of intakes is the RE Amemiya Intake http://www.rx7.com/cgi-local/3catalo...cat=7&part=100
But there are some "cold air intakes" that might be better. I don't have much experience with them.

The stock intercooler is pathetic. The M2 medium is a good choice http://www.m2performance.com/
Tested against the larger one, the medium has been deemed better actaully.

Get some HAWK HPS pads for the brakes. they Outperform the good stock ones and are good for street driving unlike many racing pads

 

thanks for all the help everyone and one more question what is the thought on going to 3 rotor hows that go

 

You had better come up with some more cash first.

 

Truthfully, it's not really worth it, you can get
the same HP out of the 13b, I really believe much of the reason many people do it is for bragging rights.
Plus from what I have heard, it will run you around $30thousand.

Stick with the 13b,
you have a VERY good start money wise,
but as stated before,keep some of it in the bank(like 5k)
and do simple things first,
downpipe, exhaust, intake, computer(this is a must),
i'd suggest a stronger radiator,
cooling is definetely a problem, I lost an engine due to overheating, and dont want to see the same happen to anyone else.

And of course, #1 is to fix anything thats broke, that should come before ANYTHING else(except maybe a downpipe, because pre-cats can cause problems).

 

One big thing you should to, as to everyone else. Is go to www.mazdamotorsports.com and get the 2pc. 3mm Apexi Seals for the rotors. Doing this will prevent a motor to blow almost 100%. The stock seals are known for going bad and causing the motor to blow. The seals are the only thing seperating everything in the rotar houseing. The seals will run you about 900 bucks, plus about 75 per hour for labor. But if you want to spare the 900 instead of 3200 for a motor rebulid, I suggest you buy those seals.

 

Hey Domestic, those seals are replaced when the motor gets taken apart and overhauled.