The Ace

Hey guys, dont think that anyone here knows me, I'm more well known in the 2nd Gen and in the European Forum .........

But anyway, since I've sold my TII, I've been thinking about what to get. You can check my sig. about the cars that I'm considering.......and one of them is the FD.

Now I know that, wherever I get the FD (in Europe), I'll drop at least 15K euros. So I'm thinking another 5K for maintenance and BPU mods should do it.....

However, I would like to know from you guys what are the expected gains (WHP-wise) and times from a BPU FD: intake (dont think I can get the Pettit M2 here in Europe), DP, exhaust (with a racing cat maybe), an upgraded radiator, and some sort of boost/AF control (maybe the Apex'i P-VCR and P-AFC gadgets).

So (taking into account that I may decide to ditch the rats nest and go twin turbo), what are the expected gains and times for about 3-4 psi increased boost on the stock twins ?

The Ace

50 views, one whole day, and not ONE reply ?

I guess no one here has a BPU FD ? Or you dont know your FDs as well as you thought

In the 2nd Gen, we would have jumped all over a thread like this........

maxcooper

I'll take some guesses:

A stock FD makes about 220 RWHP.

+15 RWHP for the intake
+15 RWHP for the downpipe
+15 RWHP for the cat-back
+10 RWHP for the high flow cat
+0 RWHP for the radiator, but it might be a good idea if you run the car in hot climates

The S-AFC doesn't work well for adding fuel on the FD because it makes you hit the fuel cut at a lower boost level if you richen the mixture. FCDs are not a good idea for good tuning and reliability on the FD. The AVC-R is said to get confused trying to control the sequential turbo system. A PowerFC allows for full programming of the boost, fuel map, and ignitions maps, and is nice because it doesn't add any boxes to the car since it replaces the stock ECU. That's a much better choice for controlling the FD. The GReddy Profec-B can be used if you don't like the boost control provided by the PowerFC.

You can get about 300 RWHP by bumping the boost to 12 psi or so (stock is 10 psi). Add an intercooler and a fuel pump and you should be running 320+ RWHP at 12-13 psi. Reliability becomes less solid above those levels on pump gas, but if everything is working well you can get 340+ RWHP with reasonable reliability by bumping the boost up a little more.

Be careful with order in which you add the mods. The stock fuel maps are rich enough to allow a few mods before you address the ECU, but you would probably run lean and pop the motor if you install everything listed without the PowerFC. You'd also hit the fuel cut before you are able to bump the boost up very far. There are many posts and web sites with info about the order in which you should add things. There is a sticky thread in this forum with links to FD web sites that have this information.

-Max

The Ace

Thanks.....

But anyway, I dont think I'll be going PowerFC or standalone.....I just need to up the boost, add some fuel (to keep the A/F mixture a bit rich), and do the usual reliability mods (AST, DP, maybe some silicone lines etc etc.....)

As for sites, my Favorites with FC and FD sites is almost as long as my d**k (well, it just fills the screen when it drops down ). I have gone through these sites, but I need some real-life and real-time experiences.....

I've heard about the "fuzzy logic" of the electronic boost controllers having problems with the sequential setup of the FD. That's why I'm thinking about going just twins, and ditch the sequential setup...
Any other input from you guys is most welcome....

maxcooper

My point was that you can't just add fuel and up the boost very well without getting an aftermarket ECU. You could get a chipped ECU and use that. But if you want to be able to tune it, you could get a PowerFC for less than the price of a chipped ECU + S-AFC + AVC-R and get more adjustability with less hassle at the same time. The PowerFC is very easy to use as it plugs into the stock wiring harness and can be programmed with the hand-held Commander.

-Max