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Need some opionions to help get my car back togethor

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Old 12-16-08 | 11:42 PM
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Need some opionions to help get my car back togethor

OK... So a while back I took off my turbos with the intention of going non-sequential. That then turned into a single swap, which turned back into a non-seq now basically due to cost.

I located some non-seq turbos, but basically my question is.. if I slap those on, along with the BOP kit will I be OK to drive the car with a boost controller holding the boost to 10psi?

Over time I want to upgrade my injectors, get a PFC, IC, fuel pump, radiator and whatnot but for now if I just do that will it be OK to drive for the time being with the stock ECU and a boost controller.

I think I read somewhere that you can not run the stock ECU with the emissions removed unless you run resistors, is this true? Would it be just a better idea to get a PFC and not deal with that?
Old 12-16-08 | 11:55 PM
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You will need resistors in the 7 different colored connectors that go the rats nest that are no longer used for non-sequential, you do not need resistors for the turbo control and precontrol.

Dont waste your time running 10lbs on teh stock ecu, with weather changes and a full exhaust it is a matter of time before you boost creep or boost spike and kill the engine. Just remove the restrictor pill from the wastegate line and run 7-8lbs and be safe. When you save up more money and buy a pettic ecu or power fc then you can turn up the boost( of course it will need tuned with the PFC.)

David

PS I have a pettit ecu for $300.00 Shipped if you want it. That way you can run 11-12lbs of boost.
Old 12-17-08 | 12:58 AM
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Originally Posted by djseven
You will need resistors in the 7 different colored connectors that go the rats nest that are no longer used for non-sequential, you do not need resistors for the turbo control and precontrol.

Dont waste your time running 10lbs on teh stock ecu, with weather changes and a full exhaust it is a matter of time before you boost creep or boost spike and kill the engine. Just remove the restrictor pill from the wastegate line and run 7-8lbs and be safe. When you save up more money and buy a pettic ecu or power fc then you can turn up the boost( of course it will need tuned with the PFC.)

David

PS I have a pettit ecu for $300.00 Shipped if you want it. That way you can run 11-12lbs of boost.
Yes I see the connectors you talk about. I already ripped out most of the rats nest, the air pump, air pump control thing on the LIM and a few other bits. Where is this location of the boost pill, if I just run a new vaccum hose from the UIM to the wastegate actuator will it bypass the pill? I would much rather run 7psi that 10 just to be on the safe side, considering we've been having abnormally cold weather for the past week (-10C... normally it's in the +). I don't think I will get a pettit, just because I am going to upgrade to a PFC soon anyways.

The turbos I found (provided he hasn't sold them yet) have been fully converted to non-seq and has a ported wastegate, so hopefully I won't have any spike or creep issues.

Thanks for the info, just good to know that I can at least get the car back on the road and drive it. I've only driven it back from Portland to Vancouver and it basically got ripped apart right away.
Old 12-17-08 | 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by aaron_bc
Yes I see the connectors you talk about. I already ripped out most of the rats nest, the air pump, air pump control thing on the LIM and a few other bits. Where is this location of the boost pill, if I just run a new vaccum hose from the UIM to the wastegate actuator will it bypass the pill? I would much rather run 7psi that 10 just to be on the safe side, considering we've been having abnormally cold weather for the past week (-10C... normally it's in the +). I don't think I will get a pettit, just because I am going to upgrade to a PFC soon anyways.

The turbos I found (provided he hasn't sold them yet) have been fully converted to non-seq and has a ported wastegate, so hopefully I won't have any spike or creep issues.

Thanks for the info, just good to know that I can at least get the car back on the road and drive it. I've only driven it back from Portland to Vancouver and it basically got ripped apart right away.
You can just run a new vacuum line but dont run it from the UIM. Just run a new line in place of the factory line that comes off the primary turbo compressor housing to the wastegate actuator. It is just about a 3" piece of vacuum hose. If the wastegate is ported then you might try a MBC and see if you can get it to set solid at 9lbs. That gives a slight cushion until you upgrade to a PFC.
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