Hollywood

Hello everyone, I am new and I have to say, I really like the looks of this forum.

Now the dirt. I have come a across a 95 RX-7 TT, 24,000KM/15,000'ish miles (really low!) fully loaded everything except CD (which is the bose option I think). Any ways, It's on consignment, Mazda showed me there inspection results this is what they found. I have not purchased it yet.

1.Cracked windshield
2.Leaks oil from engine near transmition and oil pan (not lots but definate small leak).
3.On the passenger side the rod that attaches to the sway bar , the hole that the sway bar goes through is a tad bent.

I got it inspected as well from another shop. Now I took the advice on the forum and attached a manual boost guage and got this.. 10-8-8. Obvioulsy it means the second turbo is not kicking in.

Also I'm not sure what the oil pressure should be at either. I could use some help on that.

Car idled fine, temperature levels were a tiny higher than middle. everything else was very clean and mint, but at 24,000KM it should be..

So I'm looking to see what you guys think about everthing above, especially the oil leak, turbo prob...Thanks

turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

Hey Hollywood,

Oil leak, common problem to have the rear turbo oil return line leak. It is easy to fix, just replace gaskets, nothing else is in the way. Other place that is a common leak, motor mounts go through the oil pan, remove motor mounts, reseal bolts, etc. Still not a huge job.

Boost 10-8-8? Well, depends on how they are measureing the boost pattern. The boost should go to 10-12 psi on the first turbo, drop to 8 psi or so at 4500rpm when the second turbo comes on, raise to about 10psi until about 5500-6000rpm and fall off to about 7-8psi at redline. This is completely normal. If the second turbo wasn't working at all you wouldn't get 8psi after 4500rpm, you'd get 0-2psi.

Oil pressure gauges are notoriously bad. Replace the oil pressure sending unit ($100) and the guage in the car should read correctly.


Cracked windshield, easy, replace it.

Jeff

Talek

10-8-8 isn't bad, in fact that's about what it's supposed to do.. I believe the 2nd turbo is supposed to spike at 10psi at around 4500-5000 rpms when it first switches on, then hold 8 til redline.. so should be 10-8-10-8. hehe. How much is it going for? What's the scoop on the previous owner? If all you have to do is fix that oil leak and the windshield it's not a bad deal. I would recommend you have the compression on the rotars checked, however if it seems to be pulling well and not smoking they're probably fine.

Hollywood

Well this is how it was. 10-11psi till 4500, then 8, then never moved from 8, just stayed at 8, tried many runs. It was 8 consistantly after 4500rpms.

Talek

I still wouldn't say it has any problems... If it's pulling 8psi. If it were stuck lower, or dropping off at high rpms, then you would have to worry about it. Not all turbos are built alike, hehe. All I could suggest is check hoses to make sure there aren't any small leaks, and check for smoke when you romp on the gas at high rpms.

I'm sure there are plenty of people on this forum who would love it if thier secondary still pulled 8 psi

Hollywood

Ya but at so low of KM's 8psi to me is not that great, why? Because there are others that find much more used RX7's that still have 10psi on the second turbo. Remember 24,000KM's/15,000 miles is all most brand new!

ttpowerd

Plan for $300 for windshield...thats what mine ran me.

Turbos are not that bad but I would look into what might be causing the lack of boost. Maybe just a slightly cracked vaccum hose.

Has it been wrecked?

Stock gauges are not the best....I recommend replacing them if you have the means and funds

technonovice

If that is all that is wrong with it, I'd make on offer. You can bargain on the "low" boost, glass, leak....

Hollywood

In some cases do you have to pull out the engine to fix the oil leak or are all the possible problems servicable with the engine in?

I plan on replacing all guages and turbo timer, and that coolant cylinder thing I forgot what it's called., first thing.

JConn2299

I'd be concerned about the bent suspension piece that you mentioned. It sounds like someone drove into a curb or something. I wonder if the car will hold an alignment?
The FD is a very precise handling car, but if you bend something, you'll lose that precision. I also wonder if it also means there's other damage from running over or into something. Do you see any signs of tire wear on that wheel, or on another wheel if the tires have been rotated? Are there brand new tires on the car? That's another way to cover up suspension damage.

It always pays to be real picky. Otherwise you find out later what the car really co$$$$t you.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

I agree with JConn2299.

I'd be more concerned with the suspension problem than the boost problem. With miles that low, it does sound like they curbed it or hit something else.

Hollywood

Ya but that suspension arm can be easily replaced, nothing else looked banged up, tire wear looked even, and even it was causing problems, it was probly done somewhat recently and not driven much on it.

When you say dont worry about the turbo problem as much, dont others say here that serching for boost leak is tedious and hard to find?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

The supsension being old and breaking is one thing. The suspension being broke from hitting or running over something it different. Like I said, that would worry me more than anything. Not that it's not hard to replace, but I would wonder what other supension damage has happened.

Yes, they can be tedious and hard to find, but they are usually extremely inexpensive (usually just a vacuum hose or something).

What you should be concerned with when buying a car is how much extra money you will need to spend on the car over the sell price. At least, that's what I would be concerned with myself.

djantlive

Did you get an estimate from the shop that you took the car for inspection? I hope it's a rotary shop or else their opinion is probably worthless. Never trust the dealer technicians! They don't know anything about the engine and especially the turbos. I would get an estimate (ball park figure) to see what are the repair costs and the cause of 2nd turbo low boost. It could very well just be a leaking oil line and some vac hose leak. (Would a faulty solenoid cause low boost in the 2nd turbo?) Only a good rotary shop can tell. Also, the bent suspension arm is quite common when ppl hit something on the road. You'll want to make sure that after replacement of the arm, you can get the car to align. If the previous owner had the accident and didn't fix it, why? If he puts on new tires w/o fixing it, I would be really worried. Tires aren't cheap (compared to a suspension arm) and he's hiding something!

Don't be lured by the low mileage. Have you run a carfax? Does the car seem like it should have low mi? Check seat bolster, gas/brake petals for wear/tear. It should have little or no wear since the mileage is so low. Ppl do turn back the odometer you know.

Not trying to sound pessimistic but it's better to be cautious before you open that fat stack of cash. Have fun shopping!

turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

I wouldn't worry about the boost issue much at all. The bump in boost on switchover isn't that big of deal.

The suspension piece. Depends on what piece it is, I thought it was the sway bar mounting clamp. The piece that holds the sway bar to the sway bar mount. If that is the piece that is bent it isn't really a big deal at all. If a control arm is bent then the car took a serious hit. Lower control arms are Forged = strong and tough. Bending one of these isn't easy.

Oil leaks don't require the engine to be pulled. Worst case is that the oil pan gasket is bad, that requires dropping the front subframe, lots of work but not as much as pulling the motor. Some mechanics might rather pull the engine than drop the subframe for the oil pan gasket. I don't think oil pan gaskets go bad that often, it is usually the motor mounts that are leaking making it appear that the oil pan gasket is leaking.

Jeff

Hollywood

Yes I car faxed it. It's clean. But even that is 100% reliable. The car is being sold by a mazda stealership so I'm pretty sure the KM's are ok.

Ya it is the small arm that has a hole in in which the sway bar goes through. It is slightly bent, nothing major.

1bad7

ok, your buying from a dealership. first off they do not know anything about the car. secondly, eventhough u havent said how much they want, they probably want way too much. the odometer coulda easily been pulled back by the original owner as well. this car sounds like a car that was fairly well treated but then someone hit the curb or something and had problems after so they decided to just sell it to a dealership. they knew that if they tried to sell it privately then any well eduacted rx7 enthusiast would immediately know what was goin on. be careful and take it to an rx7 mechanic to get checked out

unixpilot

10 bucks says the boost problem is a clogged pre-cat or main cat.

Hollywood

I did get it inspected by a mechanic with his own speed shop, he has worked on several RX7's mostly 2ng gen.(not expert though), he's also my friend. The dealership is actually scared about the car since it's high profile. The car is in really mint shape, I will investigate the possible roll back, but I don't think it is. I'm not an RX-7 guy as you know but I do know cars, and I have done my research, definatly not jumping into things.

The guy was selling it last year too but then he changed his mind and took it back. Now he's selling it again. I know because I looked at it last year at the same dealership. I'm thinking he knows the manager because he stores it at the dealership in the winter. I guess he's a broker and too lazy to sell it on his own.

Also the sway arm is very minor, just because I was thurogh I noticed it, seriously guys I would not be worried about that. Yes he must of hit a bump or something. The turbo and oil concerns me way more by far!

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

A bump?

That's a SERIOUS bump then... My suspension has a lot more miles on it than that (bought the car about 4 years ago at 45k, now has 73k) and I've hit several bumps and pot holes. I've never broken anything on the suspension, let alone just from a bump.

Basically, what people are saying is that the suspension system is not that fagile. If it was, we would all be replacing parts left and right with the rough ride the car can have.

Hollywood

Here is the detail of the arm prob. You know the hole on the arm that the sway bar goes through? There is also a bushing that goes in the hole for the sway bar. Now that hole part of the arm is slightly crooked (like 3mm may be), so the arm it self is not actually bent. I should have been more clear on that. Sorry, I was at work.

Actually I dont find the ride that rough at all, it feels very smooth.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Yes, the stock non-R models ride pretty smooth. Once you start changing the suspension on the other hand.

Well, it's up to you. Like I said, the little boost problem and the oil leak wouldn't bother me at all. Of course, I've had my FD for quite some time so boost problems and oil leaking are second nature now where as suspension problems/breaking aren't.

Good luck on your decision or purchase.

Hollywood

There are R models in north america?

You think that the hole being crooked 3mm is a big difference? May be the sway bar pushed it to make it crooked/twisted? May be the sway bar is setup wrong causing it? To me it sounds more like that than a hit, but hard to say. Only the hole area is twisted/cooked 3mm not the arm.

Thanks for your help by the way.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Not really. My concern wouldn't be how much to fix it. I would be concerned of suspension damage on a low mileage car. That usually indicates that something was hit, whether a curb or something else rather then just wear and tear.

That doesn't mean this is what happened to the FD that you are looking at, but it would suck to purchase a car with a bent frame or something.

Make sure when you test drive the car, you let go of the wheel to see if the car is pulling in one direction or if it stays straight. Take a look a the areas where the body panels come together and make sure the spaces are even on both sides.

Hollywood

K that sounds like a good idea. I will check that. I did not notice any pull when driving but will take a closer look for sure!