I will be rebuilding my engine for the second time. I will be looking to push 500hp. This engine needs to be built very strong and have reliability mods performed so that the 500hp will not put undue strain on my engine internals. The engine was previously rebuilt by Hayes Rotary. They lowered the compression on the rotors via compression dishing. Should I go back to standard compression? 3mm Apex seals, micron tapered eccentric shaft, rotor bob weighting, and computer balancing were performed. MOS2 and ceramic coatings were also applied. Should I do these coatings again? Are there special silicone seals that are better than stock replacements? What about oil bearing mods? What are the best apex seals on the market? I heard the aviation seals are the best. I am the type to go overboard on mods to ensure ultimate reliability and top performance. Please tell me everything I need to know as I don't want to waste any more money. I will probably have Yaw Power perform the rebuild. Thanks for any info and tuner secrets.

 

Just get a reman and boost over 20lbs you'll have 500hp. Ernie T, ran 10s with a stock motor so he had to be close to 500rwhp. No need to spend all this $$ on extra stuff when the oringal motor can handle it with the right tuner, ecu, fuel system. If you want to build a motor just get a mild streetport and nice size turbo and call it a day. Best seals are the oem factory seals noone has done more R&R then mazda has with seals.

 

porting a stock reman would be my opinion as well just because it won't be as expensive when another rebuild is needed, but 500hp out of a 13B doesn't typically result in reliable.
This really depends on your definition of reliable though. What kind of life span do you want the motor to have? what are your driving habits? What is the purpose of the car? 1/4 mile, autocross, dyno queen, daily driver? milage/years wanted?
How often will you boost the car and will it be high boost all the time or mid to low with occasional high? All of these factor in on what kind of stress the 13B has to endure. good luck.

 

It will be a weekend driver and will not be totally boosted all the time. Money is really not a big concern as long as it doesn't exceed $8000. I would like more done than a standard reman, such as lightened rotors, bearing mods, etc.

 

I think it's possible to have 500 reliable hp as long as it's not abused... which I don't think is possible.

 

500 hp? Store a spare engine already built up and ready to go. Remove and replace as needed

 

More than likely the corner and apex seals will be your failure point for a 500hp engine, so upgraded bearings, and lightened rotors are a waste of money. If you must spend money on a motor, I would get a really nice matched port job to avoid having to run as much boost for 500hp, coolant upgrades, and oil passage upgrades so you can get the heat out of the engine as much as possible to avoid pre det. Take the remaining money you have and invest it in a short term CD so you can buy another engine rebuild. I fully agree with HDP and DamenB's comments.

 

Matched port is matching the intake and exhaust ports to match up perfectly with the intake and exhaust manifolds, right? Is that accomplished by extrude honing? Also, please explain what the coolant upgrades and oil passage upgrades are in more detail. Thanks for the tips.

 

Port matching is just as you described as well as ensuring that each rotor housing is port matched to give an even flow across all rotors. Much like a cam duration, height, and overlap specs are so crucial in a piston motor. The length and size of the intake and exhaust ports can determine what RPM range the engine is most efficient at. A good engine builder can typically recommend what type of port is best for your application based on your goals of drivability, and performance.

coolant and oil upgrades involve better seals and some engine builders even open up the pathways to be larger for more flow of coolant and oil. Larger pathways can sometimes lead to premature engine failure due to a crack in the metal separating the combustion chamber, oil passage, or coolant passage. good luck to you, and remember that a good tuner can save you alot of headaches and money.

 

Stock reman, non-sequental, all the bolt on goodies and crank up the boost! You are going to have to get a heavely uprgaded fuel system, and I would get it tuned by an expert, Steve Kan maybe. you can get around 500hp with that but it sure doesnt mean that it is going to be reliable. To make it as reliable as possible, tune the car to be able run 20psi, but when you are out on the steet keep it at like 12-14, just dont run 20+psi all day long every day, you will blow your engine.

With that kind of power, dont forget to upgrade your rear diff, expecially if the car has a lot of miles on it.

 

That's exactly what I was planning. Just get an electronic boost controller and turn it down for normal driving. How about a KAAZ 1.5 for the diff?

 

Stock apex seals, a serious port job (half bridge?), the proper turbo setup, and most importantly for long life, water injection. I say again, water injection. It can and will save you from detonation.

I am making 500 motor hp on a motor i built and ported. The car is a weekend driver and has given me no problems at all *knock on wood.*

 

running nice and rich is a more effective method to mitigate detonation in my humble opinion

 

Very true that's one of the reasons why Mazda tuned the stock engine that way. A temporary lean condition isn't as bad with a super rich A/F ratio because of the extra un-burned fuel. Cars tuned to higher A/F ratio's don't have that benefit. Lean will easily mean boom if your tuned in the 12's as compared to in the 10's.

 

3 window bearings and lightened rotors are only necessary for higher rpms (8k and up for NA BP or PP engines). The average turbo rotary engine will peak it's hp around 7k depending on ports, turbo exhaust a/r, and boost making those mods unnecessary for your goals. I mean your not going to be revving to 10k are you? The REW engine block itself in general is very robust in stock form and really doesn't need much modification to reach your goals. Extra fuel, good spark, a great tune, free flowing exhaust, adequate cooling, good port job, and a turbo large enough to provide the CFM are what you need to reach that hp level.

Personaly since you will only be using it as a weekend car, I would go with the RA seals because if you have a problem they will bend and not break saving you a turbo and housing damage. Kabooski is using them making over 500rwhp in his Fc and loves them. Just make sure that you use stock springs with them. Also as Goodfella stated, a little water injection is usefull in preventing knock. I would set it up to activate at 15psi and up.

 

I sure hope you aren't refering to the stock twins producing 500hp when you said non-sequential. It's hard not to run 20psi all the time though, trust me. It's like a very addictive drug, once you feel it once you just can't get enough. From my experience at least.

 

This will be a single turbo for sure. I will more than likely be using the Aquamist water injection.