Nagisa Fender Brace
#2
WOW, where did you get those and how much? Dang those things will help against frame twist. I don't think you need instructions on those things but you may want to learn how to take out your fenders and that my friend is a pita! Make sure you mark the bolts so it is easy for you to install it back.
#4
Yes please, i would appreciate it very much. I got them from More Japan. aka more-japan.com for 258.00 I run a full set (top and bottom) Auto Exec with a Banzai diff brace. These will effect my turn in more than all the rest combined.
#7
Awesome, does it really make a difference when you have the full auto exec subframe braces I was thinking about getting the full set up also but it is really not popular upgrade for the guys here. Post pics too during the process yeah we want to see it.
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#8
I got the FEED fender braces, pretty much the same thing I think . I think you take that metal bracket off the top of the brace and bolt it to the inside of the frame rail.
Once that's bolted to the frame rail you can bolt the brace to the bracket. The part that is sitting on the ground in the photos bolts to the door hinges.
-Dan
Once that's bolted to the frame rail you can bolt the brace to the bracket. The part that is sitting on the ground in the photos bolts to the door hinges.
-Dan
#12
Goodfalla Engine Complete
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From: Kennewick, Washington
You would think that any bracing with a unibody would help... but is it $800 worth of help?
($800 is an arbitrary number as it pops into my head when I think about the whole underbody bracing kit I saw)
($800 is an arbitrary number as it pops into my head when I think about the whole underbody bracing kit I saw)
#13
Nagisa Auto has a ton of experience doing mainly chassis/suspension parts for Nissan Skyline GT-Rs. They have an 800 horsepower R34 GT-R that holds some records on tsukuba circuit in japan.
Granted they are not a rotary specialist shop, but they do have some experience building fast cars. They also tend to focus a lot of attention of chassis/suspension parts more than anything else. They also have a good following amongst GT-R owners for making high quality parts. Granted every business is about a bit of marketing, most shops do like to make quality products so that they don't lose face in the eyes of their customers.
A friend of mine has a black R34 GT-R with Autoselect fender braces like these and said he felt an improvement. I did not get into details though.
There are proven benefits to such chassis support parts regardless of maker, as long as it's been engineered and tested.
http://www.nagisa-auto.com/products/nissan/index.html
Granted they are not a rotary specialist shop, but they do have some experience building fast cars. They also tend to focus a lot of attention of chassis/suspension parts more than anything else. They also have a good following amongst GT-R owners for making high quality parts. Granted every business is about a bit of marketing, most shops do like to make quality products so that they don't lose face in the eyes of their customers.
A friend of mine has a black R34 GT-R with Autoselect fender braces like these and said he felt an improvement. I did not get into details though.
There are proven benefits to such chassis support parts regardless of maker, as long as it's been engineered and tested.
http://www.nagisa-auto.com/products/nissan/index.html
Last edited by Miata_mx5; 12-24-08 at 07:11 PM.
#14
Part-1
I do not believe in leaving parts lying around. I have installed the Nagisa fender braces and will outline the process.
1) Take off the bumper cover easy as pie.
2) take off the fender. easier than the bumper cover, but there are some tricks
3) when you take off the fender bolts at the engine bay scribe the location of the fender through the bolt hole. It will allow easy and proper placement of the fender
4) The fender are VERY thin. You can distort them very easily if you do not take care.
5) take pictures
6) bag all parts in relationship to whence they came. This is important.
1) Take off the bumper cover easy as pie.
2) take off the fender. easier than the bumper cover, but there are some tricks
3) when you take off the fender bolts at the engine bay scribe the location of the fender through the bolt hole. It will allow easy and proper placement of the fender
4) The fender are VERY thin. You can distort them very easily if you do not take care.
5) take pictures
6) bag all parts in relationship to whence they came. This is important.
#15
Part-2
This is important. If your 7 has had any front end damage you will have a really horrible time fitting these braces. They are a close fit. Some very minor grinding maybe necessary and a little pushing and pulling but an easy and trouble free install for me
1) Close your door fully. This will help lock it into place when you take out 2/3 of the bolts
2) Take the door hinge bolt off.
3) test fit the brace fully. That means tighten all the bolts
4) in my case the drain hole touched the brace.
4a) take brace off
5) bend it down about a 1/8 inch or live with all the noise it will cause. I use a number 2 hammer or was that a number 1
6) Now take the compressed air and blow out the drain hole...all three of them. Big mess from this but no visible rust either.
7) Undercoat it or there will be rust
8) last paint those bad boys....chrome bad....black good
9) use a lock tight like compound to hold them in place
10) I put some thick washers in place instead of what was in the kit....they were deforming in the test fit and therefore would lead to yet a new rattle
Okay I added a step...I took the headlight covers, fenders, and bumper cover for a re-paint. If you are in need this is the time.
Put it all back together
1) Close your door fully. This will help lock it into place when you take out 2/3 of the bolts
2) Take the door hinge bolt off.
3) test fit the brace fully. That means tighten all the bolts
4) in my case the drain hole touched the brace.
4a) take brace off
5) bend it down about a 1/8 inch or live with all the noise it will cause. I use a number 2 hammer or was that a number 1
6) Now take the compressed air and blow out the drain hole...all three of them. Big mess from this but no visible rust either.
7) Undercoat it or there will be rust
8) last paint those bad boys....chrome bad....black good
9) use a lock tight like compound to hold them in place
10) I put some thick washers in place instead of what was in the kit....they were deforming in the test fit and therefore would lead to yet a new rattle
Okay I added a step...I took the headlight covers, fenders, and bumper cover for a re-paint. If you are in need this is the time.
Put it all back together
#18
#19
That's a shitpot load of work to install something that I cannot justify in my mind performs a meaningful task - just my opinion of course. You are strengthening the unibody tack welds for the fender extensions. In all my time here I have not heard of any problems in this area of FD design. Now - the Strut bar brace is a must. I can see the flexing of hard cornering taking it toll on those welds. But this - convince me.
Later
Later
#20
It should be noted that these braces are for a car that does both right and left turns. I would not waste my time here for a straight line car, nor I would not take any time with a differential brace either or a Full set of Auto Exec braces
#21
BadddRx7:
Fritz Flynn - who also happens to be a roadcourse instructor at several events and tracks, including at VIR - had this to say about the fender braces:
I got this from another post from a totally different thread.
Fritz Flynn - who also happens to be a roadcourse instructor at several events and tracks, including at VIR - had this to say about the fender braces:
"These will help to reduce body flex allowing for more predictable and faster turn in response from your car. Similar to the way a strut bar decreases the time from turning the wheel to actual turn in. IOW turn in will happen faster with quicker steering feedback. You can feel it in the corners thats for sure."
#22
Flynn is a well respected man here, so he would know more about them I agree. Maybe Fritz will chime in on the latest thoughts concerning this product. I would think these are for the extreme road racer who is looking for the extreme cornering device to get that extra "edge". Other than that the FD is one of the best cornering vehicles made right out of the box.
Later
Later
#25
I have put 200 miles or so on the car with the braces on. My seat of the pants is that it makes a noticeable difference. For you that do SCCA events this is a must have. The turn in is much different and the braking while in a turn is much better I must say I like them a lot. For those that have the opinion that this sort of thing is useless.....press on with your life. For the time and effort about 3 hours max you will like the results.