My Progress on the RX-7 GT1
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My Progress on the RX-7 GT1
At first i was thinking about getting the right turbo for my car. Did my research and talked to a couple of my friends who gave me a ride in there car with the turbo. Later decided to go with a T04R. The process was long since money was short.
All of a sudden i found someone with a T78 on the form for $1900 so i bought that. Next was the install which i had to do on my own since everyone was busy. but had some some help
when i installed it
later after the piping
I was on a budget so i had to wait on the intercooler until now (Trust 3 Row)
but because of the budget im still using the stock elbow. Which ill get later!
as for now im boosting 10lbs taking it one rpm at a time. but its a big difference between the stock twins. I guess ill i need now is a hks twin power & wideband & tunning. but when i get to 6000rpms the car studders as if it cant go to 8000rpm. (maybe i need a boost controller or the stock clutch is slipping) one of my friends it maybe detonation!
le me know what U guys think?
All of a sudden i found someone with a T78 on the form for $1900 so i bought that. Next was the install which i had to do on my own since everyone was busy. but had some some help
when i installed it
later after the piping
I was on a budget so i had to wait on the intercooler until now (Trust 3 Row)
but because of the budget im still using the stock elbow. Which ill get later!
as for now im boosting 10lbs taking it one rpm at a time. but its a big difference between the stock twins. I guess ill i need now is a hks twin power & wideband & tunning. but when i get to 6000rpms the car studders as if it cant go to 8000rpm. (maybe i need a boost controller or the stock clutch is slipping) one of my friends it maybe detonation!
le me know what U guys think?
Last edited by darkphantom; 08-08-05 at 04:18 PM.
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What kind of fuel pump are you running? If your using a stock one that might be part of the problem. Also do you still have the stock radiator it looks like it from the pictures.
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Originally Posted by rynberg
What fuel system (injectors, etc) and ecu are you using?
IN THE SIG. Power FC & 800cc prim & 1600 inj secondary with a BNR fuel pump
Originally Posted by SurgeMonster
Who did your tuning?
It sounds like you are about 12
It sounds like you are about 12
NOT TUNED YET
Last edited by darkphantom; 08-08-05 at 05:06 PM.
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Originally Posted by darkphantom
The process was long since money was short.
I was on a budget so i had to wait on the intercooler until now (Trust 3 Row)
but because of the budget im still using the stock elbow. Which ill get later!
as for now im boosting 10lbs taking it one rpm at a time. but its a big difference between the stock twins. I guess ill i need now is a hks twin power & wideband & tunning. but when i get to 6000rpms the car studders as if it cant go to 8000rpm. (maybe i need a boost controller or the stock clutch is slipping) one of my friends it maybe detonation!
le me know what U guys think?
I was on a budget so i had to wait on the intercooler until now (Trust 3 Row)
but because of the budget im still using the stock elbow. Which ill get later!
as for now im boosting 10lbs taking it one rpm at a time. but its a big difference between the stock twins. I guess ill i need now is a hks twin power & wideband & tunning. but when i get to 6000rpms the car studders as if it cant go to 8000rpm. (maybe i need a boost controller or the stock clutch is slipping) one of my friends it maybe detonation!
le me know what U guys think?
I think you need to get it tuned before you blow it. You don't need the wideband or the twin power as much as you need good tuning right now.
You said twice you are on a budget and money was short. Can you afford a new engine if it is detonation?
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#8
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Originally Posted by alberto_mg
I think you need to get it tuned before you blow it. You don't need the wideband or the twin power as much as you need good tuning right now.
You said twice you are on a budget and money was short. Can you afford a new engine if it is detonation?
You said twice you are on a budget and money was short. Can you afford a new engine if it is detonation?
How do you suggest he tune it without a wideband? Come on now.
First off, you should only be running spring rate (is that) if the map is not tuned. Get off the gas or you WILL break the engine. Get the wideband if your intending to work on the map. If not then I would suggest you find someone who does have one and the knowledge to help get your map all straight.
Which map sensor are you using?
Last edited by Fd3BOOST; 08-08-05 at 07:13 PM.
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Which map sensor are you using?
I dont think i could be denotation. the engine was rebuilded 1000 miles ago! (my bad for saying budget twice)
i will get it tuned friday!
Last edited by darkphantom; 08-08-05 at 08:24 PM.
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Just got done installing the odyssey battery and the rest of the piping on the car.
tried to relocate the battery but the jack for the car broke! so had to paid $80 for a smaller battery. (just hope it last as long as the big ones) BTW its a 3 bar map sensor. later after i fix the power problem i can start on the body!
tried to relocate the battery but the jack for the car broke! so had to paid $80 for a smaller battery. (just hope it last as long as the big ones) BTW its a 3 bar map sensor. later after i fix the power problem i can start on the body!
Last edited by darkphantom; 08-09-05 at 04:04 PM.
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the regulator is around 35-40%
but the car is really rich. my clothes start to smell like gas depending how long im in the car
edit: what you guys use to keep the power fc controller up so its visable while driving?
but the car is really rich. my clothes start to smell like gas depending how long im in the car
edit: what you guys use to keep the power fc controller up so its visable while driving?
Last edited by darkphantom; 08-09-05 at 05:04 PM.
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your motor having 1k miles on it has nothing to do with detonation. It could be many things, but having a new motor will not make any difference. Look into your timing/fuel/ignition etc. There are tons of threads that cover it. I would NOT beat on the car if I were you.
#16
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Originally Posted by darkphantom
Just got done installing the odyssey battery and the rest of the piping on the car.
tried to relocate the battery but the jack for the car broke! so had to paid $80 for a smaller battery. (just hope it last as long as the big ones) BTW its a 3 bar map sensor. later after i fix the power problem i can start on the body!
tried to relocate the battery but the jack for the car broke! so had to paid $80 for a smaller battery. (just hope it last as long as the big ones) BTW its a 3 bar map sensor. later after i fix the power problem i can start on the body!
By the looks of that pic... It seems like you have to stock map sensor.........................
You really have no idea what your doing do you?
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no but at least im trying my best on my own. Its going to get tuned next week so i just wont drive it till then! i was told by the guy whom i bought it from that it was a 3 bar map sensor
Last edited by darkphantom; 08-10-05 at 12:10 AM.
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Your rx7 gt1 looks like a ******* piece of ****! hahah stock intercooler and stock radiator with a nasty *** veilside kit. sell the car fool and buy something you can afford and at least understand. There's a reason why your rep is "infamous around these parts" hahahh
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Originally Posted by R2 FD3S
Your rx7 gt1 looks like a ******* piece of ****! hahah stock intercooler and stock radiator with a nasty *** veilside kit. sell the car fool and buy something you can afford and at least understand. There's a reason why your rep is "infamous around these parts" hahahh
I don't see a stock intercooler.
#22
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1000 miles on a rebuild and you're already boosting and driving to 6000rpm?
you're asking to blow your motor and make your tight budget into zilch.
do yourself a favor, buy a daily driver and don't drive your FD until you get all the necessary parts and get it tuned correctly. It'll help you save money in the long run.
you're asking to blow your motor and make your tight budget into zilch.
do yourself a favor, buy a daily driver and don't drive your FD until you get all the necessary parts and get it tuned correctly. It'll help you save money in the long run.
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Originally Posted by Jaiyurai
do yourself a favor, buy a daily driver and don't drive your FD until you get all the necessary parts and get it tuned correctly.
Originally Posted by halo_im_sam
sorry if this is a noob question but why isn't there a filter on that turbo? what if a pebble or dirt gets in there?
Originally Posted by FCdemon
If it's not tuned yet, you shouldn't be driving it, and definately shouldn't be boosting hard on it, period.
EDIT: and as for the look of the car. I dont think any of you would complain if you bought a 94 FD with all the mods (except the t78 kit) for only $6000. i dont care how it looks. I could change that later. Plus the guy was nice enough to ship the car from michigan at no charge
Last edited by darkphantom; 08-10-05 at 03:25 PM.
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Originally Posted by Fd3BOOST
How do you suggest he tune it without a wideband? Come on now.
First off, you should only be running spring rate (is that) if the map is not tuned. Get off the gas or you WILL break the engine. Get the wideband if your intending to work on the map. If not then I would suggest you find someone who does have one and the knowledge to help get your map all straight.
Which map sensor are you using?
First off, you should only be running spring rate (is that) if the map is not tuned. Get off the gas or you WILL break the engine. Get the wideband if your intending to work on the map. If not then I would suggest you find someone who does have one and the knowledge to help get your map all straight.
Which map sensor are you using?
Wideband will cost ~$400 or more. One can easily get to a dyno that has it's own wideband and tune for $75-100 an hour. You can accomplish quite a bit in an hour if you know what you are doing. And if you don't know what you are doing, then having your own wideband won't help anyway. Cheaper to hit the dyno and see what's going on. That was my rationale.