My custom oil cooler project
08-17-04, 03:09 AM
#26
To Goracer.
This is my version of 25 row oil cooler kit. very similar to your. so got a same problem too... the Fitting sit too low. should just use 19 row. like CWR... bigger is not always better. Stubid ME got point by Wrong direction... I guess. I can blame to Rotary ExTreme, on their pic they give me a idea the 25 row will fit..... oh well it doesnt.
So I either I will build a Protection plate under it. or change to 19 row...
OH for every one want to build their oil cooler kit. I recomand you to buy a kit . save a lot of time. and you did not spend that much money after all
This is my version of 25 row oil cooler kit. very similar to your. so got a same problem too... the Fitting sit too low. should just use 19 row. like CWR... bigger is not always better. Stubid ME got point by Wrong direction... I guess. I can blame to Rotary ExTreme, on their pic they give me a idea the 25 row will fit..... oh well it doesnt.
So I either I will build a Protection plate under it. or change to 19 row...
OH for every one want to build their oil cooler kit. I recomand you to buy a kit . save a lot of time. and you did not spend that much money after all
08-17-04, 03:34 AM
#27
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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25 row will fit if you make it with the right fitting orientation 
You need to put the hose fittings on the top, not at the bottom. The picture on our website even shows that.
Chuck Huang
You need to put the hose fittings on the top, not at the bottom. The picture on our website even shows that. Chuck Huang
Originally Posted by diyman25
To Goracer.
This is my version of 25 row oil cooler kit. very similar to your. so got a same problem too... the Fitting sit too low. should just use 19 row. like CWR... bigger is not always better. Stubid ME got point by Wrong direction... I guess. I can blame to Rotary ExTreme, on their pic they give me a idea the 25 row will fit..... oh well it doesnt.
So I either I will build a Protection plate under it. or change to 19 row...
OH for every one want to build their oil cooler kit. I recomand you to buy a kit . save a lot of time. and you did not spend that much money after all
This is my version of 25 row oil cooler kit. very similar to your. so got a same problem too... the Fitting sit too low. should just use 19 row. like CWR... bigger is not always better. Stubid ME got point by Wrong direction... I guess. I can blame to Rotary ExTreme, on their pic they give me a idea the 25 row will fit..... oh well it doesnt.
So I either I will build a Protection plate under it. or change to 19 row...
OH for every one want to build their oil cooler kit. I recomand you to buy a kit . save a lot of time. and you did not spend that much money after all
08-17-04, 04:27 AM
#28
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Yeah weird, I thought I remembered their old pic with the fittings underneath as well but the current pic shows them above. Although, the sleek head light kit removes the the surounding headlight plastic bezal obstruction they do mention their kit clears the stock headlights. There's no mention if it's a non-swival and those 180 degree fittings could make all the difference as well http://www.rotaryextreme.com/vm/vm-5.jpg ...rotary xecret sauce "lol" 
If you can't do custom fabrication (like me) then there is no savings in building your own. I totaly forgot they had a kit after I looked in to CWR. But I assumed that I could do a single side myself for alot less and I never intended to spend more then $500 total.
I will try the 24row on the passenger side later with the 180degree fittings and see if it's possible with pop up head lights and post results with pics when I can.
I started with the 90degree fittings the same as yours but it put them below the tow/strap down hooks. We switched to the 90 degree female to male adapter fittings for clearance and the titanium lines were to hold the weight of the thermastat to prevent fatigue on the oil coolers male fittings.
* It looks like you have some creative skills glancing at those brackets. You just need to be creative and do some MacGyvering. If I remember right the clearance issue was the inside nipple or fitting when they are above. Trimming the plastic would create noise and mess with aerodynamics at high speed (and look getto). I know it sounds tacky but maybe using one of the 90 degree male to female elbows as an extension to clear the headlight bezal and then the normal 90degree fitting.
If you can't do custom fabrication (like me) then there is no savings in building your own. I totaly forgot they had a kit after I looked in to CWR. But I assumed that I could do a single side myself for alot less and I never intended to spend more then $500 total.
I will try the 24row on the passenger side later with the 180degree fittings and see if it's possible with pop up head lights and post results with pics when I can.
I started with the 90degree fittings the same as yours but it put them below the tow/strap down hooks. We switched to the 90 degree female to male adapter fittings for clearance and the titanium lines were to hold the weight of the thermastat to prevent fatigue on the oil coolers male fittings.
* It looks like you have some creative skills glancing at those brackets. You just need to be creative and do some MacGyvering. If I remember right the clearance issue was the inside nipple or fitting when they are above. Trimming the plastic would create noise and mess with aerodynamics at high speed (and look getto). I know it sounds tacky but maybe using one of the 90 degree male to female elbows as an extension to clear the headlight bezal and then the normal 90degree fitting.
Last edited by GoRacer; 08-17-04 at 04:48 AM.
08-17-04, 05:16 AM
#29
Originally Posted by GoRacer
There is a banjo bolt tapped for a oil temp sensor made by someplace and I can't remember who sells it, does anybody know? I can't find my link for it.
08-17-04, 05:26 AM
#30
in order to fit 25 row. you need to fit the oil cooler at angle. not flat against bumper.
Dont like the idea, SO I mount the fitting under. So far did not hit any thing yet(knock on wood)
Dont like the idea, SO I mount the fitting under. So far did not hit any thing yet(knock on wood)
08-17-04, 06:18 AM
#31
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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I think you are confused.
CWR mounts their hose fittings at the bottom.
Ours are always mounted on the top from the first day.
Our company name is Rotary Extreme. There is no rotary xecret sauce here. You are talking about another company again.
Our kit 25 row oil cooler fits with stock headlight without modification.
Chuck Huang
CWR mounts their hose fittings at the bottom.
Ours are always mounted on the top from the first day.
Our company name is Rotary Extreme. There is no rotary xecret sauce here. You are talking about another company again.
Our kit 25 row oil cooler fits with stock headlight without modification.
Chuck Huang
Originally Posted by GoRacer
Yeah weird, I thought I remembered their old pic with the fittings underneath as well but the current pic shows them above. Although, the sleek head light kit removes the the surounding headlight plastic bezal obstruction they do mention their kit clears the stock headlights. There's no mention if it's a non-swival and those 180 degree fittings could make all the difference as well http://www.rotaryextreme.com/vm/vm-5.jpg ...rotary xecret sauce "lol"
If you can't do custom fabrication (like me) then there is no savings in building your own. I totaly forgot they had a kit after I looked in to CWR. But I assumed that I could do a single side myself for alot less and I never intended to spend more then $500 total.
I will try the 24row on the passenger side later with the 180degree fittings and see if it's possible with pop up head lights and post results with pics when I can.
I started with the 90degree fittings the same as yours but it put them below the tow/strap down hooks. We switched to the 90 degree female to male adapter fittings for clearance and the titanium lines were to hold the weight of the thermastat to prevent fatigue on the oil coolers male fittings.
* It looks like you have some creative skills glancing at those brackets. You just need to be creative and do some MacGyvering. If I remember right the clearance issue was the inside nipple or fitting when they are above. Trimming the plastic would create noise and mess with aerodynamics at high speed (and look getto). I know it sounds tacky but maybe using one of the 90 degree male to female elbows as an extension to clear the headlight bezal and then the normal 90degree fitting.
If you can't do custom fabrication (like me) then there is no savings in building your own. I totaly forgot they had a kit after I looked in to CWR. But I assumed that I could do a single side myself for alot less and I never intended to spend more then $500 total.
I will try the 24row on the passenger side later with the 180degree fittings and see if it's possible with pop up head lights and post results with pics when I can.
I started with the 90degree fittings the same as yours but it put them below the tow/strap down hooks. We switched to the 90 degree female to male adapter fittings for clearance and the titanium lines were to hold the weight of the thermastat to prevent fatigue on the oil coolers male fittings.
* It looks like you have some creative skills glancing at those brackets. You just need to be creative and do some MacGyvering. If I remember right the clearance issue was the inside nipple or fitting when they are above. Trimming the plastic would create noise and mess with aerodynamics at high speed (and look getto). I know it sounds tacky but maybe using one of the 90 degree male to female elbows as an extension to clear the headlight bezal and then the normal 90degree fitting.
08-17-04, 06:31 AM
#32
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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If you use either the Earl's 25 row or the Mocal 25 row, they can sit straight. Not all 25 row coolers from all the companies have the same dimension. For example, the Mocal 25 row is about 0.5" shorter than the Earl's 25 row.
Chuck Huang
Chuck Huang
Originally Posted by diyman25
in order to fit 25 row. you need to fit the oil cooler at angle. not flat against bumper.
Dont like the idea, SO I mount the fitting under. So far did not hit any thing yet(knock on wood)
Dont like the idea, SO I mount the fitting under. So far did not hit any thing yet(knock on wood)
08-17-04, 02:44 PM
#33
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so whats the advantage to having an enormous oil cooler if its not ducted? i seriously doubt that you will see significantly lower temps over the ducted CWR kit wil SMALLER coolers. bigger isnt always better people... anyway, if im thinking about this correctly you will be pretty much limited by the size of the opening in the bumber correct? if you have a GTC bumper or something i guess go for it, but i cant see the advantage with stock size inlets.
PS does anyone know if CWR makes ducts to meet up with the 99 mazda bumper?? i thought they might have but i cant remember.
PS does anyone know if CWR makes ducts to meet up with the 99 mazda bumper?? i thought they might have but i cant remember.
08-17-04, 03:03 PM
#34
built my own engine
bigger = more radiating surface, ducting helps a lot though....
i've ran both ways, of course ducted is better, but I wouldn't compare ducted small to unducted large
i've ran both ways, of course ducted is better, but I wouldn't compare ducted small to unducted large
08-18-04, 01:24 AM
#35
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why is everyone putting a standalone thermostat in their systems when there is one built into the factory block? That opens at 140-149F .... Or is the factory oil cooler thermostat built into the cooler itself?
john
john
08-18-04, 01:48 AM
#36
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^ look at the pics on the previous pages. The stock thermastat is mounted under the 1st cooler and the connections are sideways. I thought it opened at 170-180F though?
Yeah, I plan on doing ducts eventually but actually starting the car is my primary concern at the moment. Rotary Extreme's kit would be nice with ducts but since not everyone has the same front end it's understandable that's it's not included. ...optional would be nice though, yup.
Yeah, I plan on doing ducts eventually but actually starting the car is my primary concern at the moment. Rotary Extreme's kit would be nice with ducts but since not everyone has the same front end it's understandable that's it's not included. ...optional would be nice though, yup.
08-18-04, 02:15 AM
#37
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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With the twin 25 row, ducting is not really necessary because it pretty much fills up the whole spot. Since you are in bay area, you can get in contact with Rynberg and Reza. Both of them have my twin 25 row oil cooler kit and during street driving, they have a hard time get the oil temp to go pass 170F. On the track, oil temp stays around 200-210F even on a hot day. Both run stock bumpers. You don't need a bigger opening unless you are using a twin 34 row.
Chuck Huang
Chuck Huang
Originally Posted by RotorMotor
so whats the advantage to having an enormous oil cooler if its not ducted? i seriously doubt that you will see significantly lower temps over the ducted CWR kit wil SMALLER coolers. bigger isnt always better people... anyway, if im thinking about this correctly you will be pretty much limited by the size of the opening in the bumber correct? if you have a GTC bumper or something i guess go for it, but i cant see the advantage with stock size inlets.
PS does anyone know if CWR makes ducts to meet up with the 99 mazda bumper?? i thought they might have but i cant remember.
PS does anyone know if CWR makes ducts to meet up with the 99 mazda bumper?? i thought they might have but i cant remember.
08-18-04, 07:13 AM
#38
Lives on the Forum
Originally Posted by teeter
Or is the factory oil cooler thermostat built into the cooler itself?
08-18-04, 10:56 AM
#39
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I'd like to see pics of those rotary extreme kits mounted! 
I would recomend a pre-made kit to anyone like me that just wants to bolt the stuff on and doesn't have the talent and tools to do custom work. I have over 15 hours of custom work so far and only the single is mounted. It's still a work in progress and will change even more when the dual is completed. You can only save money if you can do the fabrication yourself. My kit may be overkill for some, but I paid alot for my rebuild and I don't want to do this any time soon, that's for sure! ok, post more pics 
I would recomend a pre-made kit to anyone like me that just wants to bolt the stuff on and doesn't have the talent and tools to do custom work. I have over 15 hours of custom work so far and only the single is mounted. It's still a work in progress and will change even more when the dual is completed. You can only save money if you can do the fabrication yourself. My kit may be overkill for some, but I paid alot for my rebuild and I don't want to do this any time soon, that's for sure! ok, post more pics
Last edited by GoRacer; 08-18-04 at 10:58 AM.
02-02-05, 07:08 PM
#40
so, i was looking into this just for fun and was wondering... with the Mocals, would i want the 235 matrix or the 115 matrix? based on the spec sheets i would assume that the 115 matrix would be best. what about the thickness, do i want the standard or the thin cooler? lastly, with the lines, AN-10? is that what will match up to the stock hookups to the "engine?"
thanks guys... i'm just being curious here and trying to learn so please be gentle with the flaming.
thanks guys... i'm just being curious here and trying to learn so please be gentle with the flaming.
02-02-05, 07:18 PM
#41
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I don't know what the Matrix is other then a movie. I ordered mine by rows. If you are doing the hookups from underneath you will want a 19row, from above you can do the 25row with the 150 or 180 degree fittings (whatever RExtreme used). I don't know of anyone that mated up to the stock lines but you could cut off the end of the hard pipe, attch couplings and connect the braided SS hose to that. There are also special order fittings AN to (forgot what the stock ones are called).
My project was never completed. I will be exchanging my 25row for my 19row and may not and the 25row on the passenger side at all.
My project was never completed. I will be exchanging my 25row for my 19row and may not and the 25row on the passenger side at all.
02-02-05, 08:00 PM
#42
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Originally Posted by GoRacer
I'd like to see pics of those rotary extreme kits mounted! I would recomend a pre-made kit to anyone like me that just wants to bolt the stuff on and doesn't have the talent and tools to do custom work. I have over 15 hours of custom work so far and only the single is mounted. It's still a work in progress and will change even more when the dual is completed. You can only save money if you can do the fabrication yourself. My kit may be overkill for some, but I paid alot for my rebuild and I don't want to do this any time soon, that's for sure! ok, post more pics
I would recomend a pre-made kit to anyone like me that just wants to bolt the stuff on and doesn't have the talent and tools to do custom work. I have over 15 hours of custom work so far and only the single is mounted. It's still a work in progress and will change even more when the dual is completed. You can only save money if you can do the fabrication yourself. My kit may be overkill for some, but I paid alot for my rebuild and I don't want to do this any time soon, that's for sure! ok, post more pics
02-02-05, 08:05 PM
#43
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^ Well my titanium hard lines support the thermostat quite well but as I stated I will be switching to the 19row to lift the fittings and thermastat up an inch to be safer. I had planned on running titanium hard lines to/from the passenger side with the 25row's fittings on top but for now I may just stay single.
02-02-05, 08:55 PM
#44
Originally Posted by GoRacer
I don't know what the Matrix is other then a movie. I ordered mine by rows. If you are doing the hookups from underneath you will want a 19row, from above you can do the 25row with the 150 or 180 degree fittings (whatever RExtreme used). I don't know of anyone that mated up to the stock lines but you could cut off the end of the hard pipe, attch couplings and connect the braided SS hose to that. There are also special order fittings AN to (forgot what the stock ones are called).
My project was never completed. I will be exchanging my 25row for my 19row and may not and the 25row on the passenger side at all.
My project was never completed. I will be exchanging my 25row for my 19row and may not and the 25row on the passenger side at all.
02-02-05, 09:47 PM
#45
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Well from personal experience, if you can "not" do custom work then it's cheaper, easier and quicker to buy a predone kit and let me stress cheaper because I paid someone else for the custom work. If you allready have a dual cooler setup it may be possible to retain most of the hard lines but you still will need some braided lines, couplers and fittings. You have to figure out where to mount the thermostat. Personaly, i'm not comfortable with it loose and hanging like the CWR kit. I don't know how the R-Ex' kit mounts the cooler or the thermostat. Here's my brackets...
02-03-05, 06:10 AM
#46
what type of "custom work" are you talking about? fabbing brakets? making lines? what else. most anything i can think of, i can either get done for free at work or find one of the car guys here or that my friends know to help me out with for no more than the cost of a case of beer
i will probably come off the top of the coolers with 180 and 150 degree line ends the way the Rotary Extreme kit appears to have been done.
i will probably come off the top of the coolers with 180 and 150 degree line ends the way the Rotary Extreme kit appears to have been done.
02-03-05, 06:19 AM
#47
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Originally Posted by pugg57
i was thinking about possibly doing dual 25 rows with 180 ends off the top. i'm not sure what the lines get hooked up to other than each other and the thhermostat, so i have lots more research to do and plenty of time to do it in. the "Matrix" rating was the width i believe. the 235 has a 9" wide core and the 115 has a 4.5 inch wide core. looks like i'll have to be doing a little more snooping... unless Chuck wants to share any secrets with me
I did my custom dual 25 row oil coolers with the ends pointing down. However I do have an aftermarket front end.
02-03-05, 06:32 AM
#48
at the moment i don't have an aftermarket front end so anything i do has to be based on the assumption that i will never get around to it. i do, however, plan on getting a MazdaSpeed GT-C style (whether its real or a knock-off) front end.
what size lines did you use? that's the question that no one seems to be answering for me... unless i missed it. guess i need to read back through this a few more times.
what size lines did you use? that's the question that no one seems to be answering for me... unless i missed it. guess i need to read back through this a few more times.
02-03-05, 09:06 AM
#49
nevermind it looks like -10 is the right size hose. what type did you guys use? i'm looking at the batinc.net site and the only one i can find that seems to have the temperature ratings is the TFE Racing Hose but it doesn't come in anything larger than -8. the other lines, FC333, can only take up to 150C and i know that's not high enough.