Moving car from street --> driveway: warm up or not?
#27
Originally Posted by scotty305
Hey gurus, for a super-short trip, something like 50-100 feet, would it be better to just drive the car cold for a few seconds and then shut it off? I know a lot of wear takes place while the car is still cold, due to clearances being out of whack and seals not being lubed well and jazz like that. So rather than spend a few minutes with the engine cold waiting for it to warm up , wouldn't it be better to spend 30 seconds pulling into the driveway/garage and then shutting back off?
I know this isn't exactly the type of subject this forum usually discusses, but it would be nice to hear some others' perspectives on this also.
-s-
I know this isn't exactly the type of subject this forum usually discusses, but it would be nice to hear some others' perspectives on this also.
-s-
...or do what I do and warm it up make the short trip, then keep the drive going and drive somewhere just for the hell of it.
#28
I never used to wait if I had to move it a very short distance, say back it out of the garage, etc...until a few months ago I did just that...backed it out of the garage, parked it, turned it off...and when I came to start it a couple of hours later, it was flooded. Ever since then, I've been so paranoid about having that happen again, that I just play it safe, and let her get warm. Besides, it's a great excuse to take her out for a quick spin! hehe
#30
Originally Posted by scotty305
Hey gurus, for a super-short trip, something like 50-100 feet, would it be better to just drive the car cold for a few seconds and then shut it off? I know a lot of wear takes place while the car is still cold, due to clearances being out of whack and seals not being lubed well and jazz like that. So rather than spend a few minutes with the engine cold waiting for it to warm up , wouldn't it be better to spend 30 seconds pulling into the driveway/garage and then shutting back off?
-s-
-s-
If your car has high miles and has been sitting up for months on end, I would let it run for a while to break down the carbon build-up. Otherwise if driven on a regular bases you should never have a problem(even with flooding). Also good spark plugs will help a great deal in situations like this(when preventing flooding). This coming from a guy who has owned 3 generations of Rx7's.
Last edited by t-von; 08-21-04 at 12:58 AM.
#32
Originally Posted by broken93
Nope, since the cold start mode is very likely to flood the engine. Let it warm up or push it. When I drop my car off at the body shop next month I plan on paying the extra $150 "non-runner charge" and letting them push it around (I'm taking the ECU with me). The thought of cold short runs really scares me.
I have been bitten by the flood bug, but figured out if you have a Power FC you can turn the PIM volts down for 1000rpm and make the car die of fuel starvation, hence no flooding!
#33
This past week I've had to move my car all of 30ft every morning (moved from one side of the driveway to the other so my mom could leave for work). I'd turn it on and move it right away. Wouldnt wait at all for it to warm up any. Turbo timer set for 1min. Never had a problem at all.
#34
Originally Posted by Gamezilla
This past week I've had to move my car all of 30ft every morning (moved from one side of the driveway to the other so my mom could leave for work). I'd turn it on and move it right away. Wouldnt wait at all for it to warm up any. Turbo timer set for 1min. Never had a problem at all.
#37
Originally Posted by adidashatesnike
Hey how about a normal warm up how do you guys handle that? I normally just let it go through its initial 30 second warm up then I just keep it under 2500 rmp untill the Temp is at its normal position. Is that bad.
#39
Originally Posted by prew
actually thats not a rule at all. i can just imagine you sitting in your garage for 2 minutes waiting to move your car into the driveway. my fd has never flooded ever, and i don't think it would if i started and stopped it all day. do you think the rx-8 has guidelines to starting up the car in the manual?
Sonny
#40
I owned an RX-8 for a month and a half in the last winter and had it almost flood on me...The dealer said they had many issues of flooding. I did like the manual said basically.
It is good for any engine to let it warm-up and get the plugs heated to burn off carbon and fuel.
It is good for any engine to let it warm-up and get the plugs heated to burn off carbon and fuel.
#41
Good thing Mazda has fixed the problem after how many decades of working with the rotary. Gives me great reassurance on the cars they put out.
Anyways... I start my car all the time for a min just to move it and have never had it flood cold.
Anyways... I start my car all the time for a min just to move it and have never had it flood cold.
Last edited by Fumanchu; 08-22-04 at 04:55 PM.
#42
I realize that it can be done, but I'm asking SHOULD it be done? If I've got a couple hours to kill, and I only need to move the car from the street to the driveway to wash it, should I just get it there quickly and spend the extra 5 minutes picking each individual hair off my interior carpet, or go for a 30-45 minute canyon run before washing the car at all?
-s-
-s-
#43
I wait the revs come down from aws then I pull out of the driveway and keep it under 3k rpms until fully warmed up.In 2years of daily driving my fd I have flooded it 3 or 4 times usually it happens when I start it in neutral to pull out of my drive way and imediately shut down without letting it complete the accelerated warmup function,I think it floods when I do this and don't restart the car imediately after realizing what I did.
#45
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,580
Likes: 567
From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
Originally Posted by FDNewbie
You should prob. disable that AWS...unless you're fond of your cold engine revving at 3K!
Also, I never shut the car down bone cold. Usually go for a quick spin around the block, and try to count how many honeys check out the FD
#46
the way I look at it
its not so much the fact that you're running it for a long time while its cold.
its the fact that the engine has load on it during cold conditions.
so when its idling in ur garage, it may be running for a few minutes while cold..
but its just sitting there idling, the wear is going to be sooo minimal.
but if you drive it for 30sec-1min without warming it up first, the engine has to engage the transmission and pull the car, putting strain/wear/tear on its moving parts...
and those parts are cold, not properly lubed, and as previously stated, clearances are all out of wack..
which sounds better now?
its not so much the fact that you're running it for a long time while its cold.
its the fact that the engine has load on it during cold conditions.
so when its idling in ur garage, it may be running for a few minutes while cold..
but its just sitting there idling, the wear is going to be sooo minimal.
but if you drive it for 30sec-1min without warming it up first, the engine has to engage the transmission and pull the car, putting strain/wear/tear on its moving parts...
and those parts are cold, not properly lubed, and as previously stated, clearances are all out of wack..
which sounds better now?
#47
Originally Posted by Tad
the way I look at it
its not so much the fact that you're running it for a long time while its cold.
its the fact that the engine has load on it during cold conditions.
its not so much the fact that you're running it for a long time while its cold.
its the fact that the engine has load on it during cold conditions.
and those parts are cold
not properly lubed
clearances are all out of wack.
Come on people, this isn't rocket science. Starting the car up and moving it a few yards before shutting it off isn't going to hurt anything.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
sherff
Adaptronic Engine Mgmt - AUS
9
02-24-19 12:09 PM