Motor issue... Stuck Corner Seal?
09-07-06, 03:53 PM
#26
Originally Posted by jacobcartmill
edit; just saw your latest post. EEK.
edit2: why is there RTV where the irons meet the housings? he used RTV to hold the freakin water orings in???
i know you're supposed to use RTV to seal up where the dowels and legs are to hold oil in, but i've never seen anybody RTV around the entire block......
edit2: why is there RTV where the irons meet the housings? he used RTV to hold the freakin water orings in???
i know you're supposed to use RTV to seal up where the dowels and legs are to hold oil in, but i've never seen anybody RTV around the entire block......
09-07-06, 03:57 PM
#27
Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
GooRoo,
regarding #2 of the port issues, one way to avoid this is to bevel/smooth out the sharp edge to make it less harsh and give a more gradual transition for the side seal which is sliding over that portion of the intake port.
regarding the coolant o-rings, ideally hylomar should be used. I have heard of silicone being used in some cases with no ill effects but it's not something I would use.
question, what is that in the lower right hand corner of the intake port? a small piece of silicone from the engine disassembly?
also, did you just buy one coolant o-ring? I have always bought new ones for each rebuild.
Rich
regarding #2 of the port issues, one way to avoid this is to bevel/smooth out the sharp edge to make it less harsh and give a more gradual transition for the side seal which is sliding over that portion of the intake port.
regarding the coolant o-rings, ideally hylomar should be used. I have heard of silicone being used in some cases with no ill effects but it's not something I would use.
question, what is that in the lower right hand corner of the intake port? a small piece of silicone from the engine disassembly?
also, did you just buy one coolant o-ring? I have always bought new ones for each rebuild.
Rich
This time, I did use hylomar on the inner o-ring since I had picked some up since the last time. The outer o-ring I used RTV again just as before since it worked fine.
I did only buy one coolant o-ring, since that's all I took out. I didn't take the motor totally apart, I just took the back iron off and the rotor out. Everything else I left alone.
09-07-06, 06:02 PM
#28
Also, to update the work that I've done....
Internal Work
Other Related Work
I'm hoping to fire it up tomorrow night and then put some miles on it this weekend. If all goes well I will head to Mid-O Wednesday and flog it at nationals.
My best guess as to the cause of all this is Foreign Object Damage.
Internal Work
- Took the rotor out and cleaned off the junk.
- Had to sand the two side seal slots since they were slightly mashed. It was basically just at the very top of the slot, since something obviously hit it and bashed it in. That seems to have pinched the side seal and caused it to break.
- Had to sand the corner seal area that was stuck. Seems like something had also hit this area, and bent in the top again, causing the seal to not move.
- Replaced all seals and springs on that side of the rotor, including ones that were still technically ok.
- Sanded the edge of the port so that I couldn't feel any edge there anymore.
Other Related Work
- Cleaned everything I could see inside and outside the motor
- Had my secondaries cleaned and tested
- Replaced my primaries with newer/cleaned/tested ones
- Tested/replaced my coils with ones that have 34k on them.
- Drilled a hole in my front cover and put in a new 10an oil catch can line.
- Rerouted the throttle body coolant line
- Disengaged the wax thermal warmup system
- Replace the Air Filter
I'm hoping to fire it up tomorrow night and then put some miles on it this weekend. If all goes well I will head to Mid-O Wednesday and flog it at nationals.
My best guess as to the cause of all this is Foreign Object Damage.
09-19-06, 04:46 PM
#29
Did get the car together and got 2.5 hours of run time on it. Boosted it and it seemed fine.
So I took it to nationals and flogged it for the weekend at NASA nationals (Mid-Ohio.)
Everything seemed fine. Car has a slight idle lope when it's really hot, but that was there before the seal issue too, so I'm not worried about it.
Hopefully in a few weeks I will have Steve K tune the car, and all will go well up to 17-20 psi
So I took it to nationals and flogged it for the weekend at NASA nationals (Mid-Ohio.)
Everything seemed fine. Car has a slight idle lope when it's really hot, but that was there before the seal issue too, so I'm not worried about it.
Hopefully in a few weeks I will have Steve K tune the car, and all will go well up to 17-20 psi
09-21-06, 04:01 PM
#31
Originally Posted by jd to rescue
Thanks for the updates. Good to see there wasn't any significant damage to rotors, housings or sides. Strange how the grooves got bent hanging up the side seals though. Any possibility it was detonation?
Possible, but unlikely. I was running 10.5ish psi of boost, and the car ran (and now runs again) just fine. The A/F is no leaner than 10.5-11. I do run a wideband all the time with a screen so I can watch it.
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