where do you get all this stuff?

 

Just a FYI for all the people out there doing this, there is an alternative to doing the hard-core rewire that also assists in getting more voltage to the pump, without eliminating the stock high/low voltage system.

You can simply take the blue wire that normally feeds voltage from the ignition switch and run it to constant power on the distribution block.

The relay is still ignition switched, however the power for the pump itself is no longer ignition switched. I made this change and added a second ground, and my voltage went from 11.6V at the pump to 12.9V. The alternator was putting out 14.1 volts at the time.

 

I must have this tool..where can i get it?

 

Those are military spec environmental crimp splices. When heat shrunken they do not allow any intrusion of corrosion causing enemies. I haven't seen them available to the general public. We didn't always use the correct tool to do the crimping, a pair of safety wire pliers and know how work just as good.

 

Here is the official tool.

 

HAHAHA!! (Wait, you were joking right? The only thing that makes a proper crimp is a proper tool)

www.digikey.com
www.mousser.com

it's been a few years...I'll look for the p/n's this weekend.

 

Finally found a good,cheap way to log fuel pressure with my datalogit. I posted a circuit diagram and parts list here.
https://www.rx7club.com/rotary-car-performance-77/logging-fuel-pressure-529948/page2/

 

That's a nice simple wiring setup to keep the stock resistor in place, although my only concern is that if the fuse you added blows, you will end up with low voltage on the pump again (hopefully not while you are under boost). It would be nice to have a setup for which the 'deafult' situation (that is open relays etc) yields high voltage to the pump.

 

in this schematic you can keep the speed relay and rewire the l/r wire direct to battery + is exactly the same.

 

so whats the benefit of the spped relay?

 

nice work

 

where can i find a write up on how to rewier my stock fuel pump?
also would this be resonable to do with only catback & cold air mod to air box

 

yeah, and how many people are going to use that?

for the average joe, soldered connections are better...crimp connections can easily pull apart

 

Your right but would you rather check to see if all your connections are together or check the resistance of your soldering joint? Just because it "looks ok" doesnt mean its not gonna fail soon.

 

The right solder for the job won't have a significant resistance. they use solder on pcb's for-goodness-sakes. if you're going to over engineer something use a rosin core flux solder and then crimp the connector to be absolutely sure that no humidity or FOD will get into it. Then do your heat shrink to ensure further that no FOD will muck up the connection and to hold the wires still and prevent fraying.


EDIT: is there a quantifiable improvement from raising the voltage. i absolutely understand that better flow is well...better but what does it mean? Is this a reliability thing or does it mean that we can tune for more power on the stock fuel system?

 

the voltage drop associated with ths stock wiring can cause fuel delivery to drop off when you need it most (high rpm, high load)...Steve Kan has written about this in other sections

the stock plug above the fuel pump cover is so cheap and the wires inside the tank are so small I've had the car refuse to start because the voltage drop was so bad (or the connection was corroded)

I noticed a 2 V jump after I rewired it with 10 gauge and ditched the plug

 

HAHA! you said FOD!

 

ah yes, i noticed in another thread you were talking about "duty" in San Diego. Lemme guess, you're navy too?

 

The average Joe doesn't know dink about soldering! The crimper and environmental splices shown above are better than solder. People who really know have been properly instructed in both crimping and soldering. I personally have a military electrical / electronic back ground and have been educated in both types of connections.

 

Yes. I'm on the freaking Aircraft Carrier USS NIMITZ. I get out in July! YES!

 

true, but most people have not been properly instructed in "environmental splices" either

I had the work professionally done, and it was all soldered

this is picking at nits

 

I remember reading an AMP technical paper on why the proper crimp tool, crimp connectors AND wire are all a "system" that when used together the crimp basically "fuses" the two metals together.

Cheap crimpers and cheap connectors will NOT make the same gas-tight connections as needed on aircraft.

I did find an article from "Import Service" magazine on the subject and it's test on how on high-current connectors, that the solder melted.

I am a FIRM believe on relays for high-current / voltage-sensitive devices (e.g., head lights). Try relaying your headlights as well, you'll love it, esp. if you use E-code headlights . . .

I ONLY use Bosch or Hella relays on high-current and high-reliability items (e.g., fuel-pumps; horns; headlights; etc.). I've had too many cheap relays fail.

BTW: I crimp and solder . . .

:-) neil

 

Hey, at least it's not the sh!tty-hawk!

I thought i was on to something. :P