The car is indeed great fun at stock level, but think about it, some of the reliability mods do give you more power (i.e. downpipe), so if i follow an easy safe path, I will have squeeked out some more HP and be reliable at the same time.

If I want to scare myself silly with ballistic acceleration, i'll just hop on the liter bike

 

I'd have to agree with jeff p. This might sound sissy but the rx-7 can be a handful at stock power levels. Driving in a straight line is one thing but knowing how to handle a car as light and capable as the FD can be tricky. Not saying you are not skilled, but it is something to think about. No electronic aids. With stock tires and wheels you will be in a traction limited situation very quickly. Stay out of the rain.

A flat bottom steering wheel might help but you'll probably lose your airbag.

Besides reliability mods the only modifications I've done are an HKS downpipe, K&N drop in filter and an AEM water injection system. The dp and h20 kit double as reliability mods. With stock wheels/tires my car burns rubber through first and breaks free again in 2nd at full boost on the primary turbo. Things can get hairy pretty fast. Once you get your car go with your plan and get all the reliability stuff done. Take it one modification at a time so you can not only enjoy it more but know where to start troubleshooting if something goes wrong which it certainly could. In my opinion everybody should have a downpipe (get one that maintains the factory exhaust hanger on the transmission) and a water injection system regardless of boost levels. It can make up for a stock intercooler and warm weather and can protect you if you get into an overboost situation you are not tuned for.

 

I've started looking into the Works steering wheel spacers offered by A-spec and seeing if there's a way they can function with a stock wheel. That might be the best option.


I hear you on the Aux Injection. I've been re-reading Howard Coleman's thread about "High Definition" injection and it certainly sounds interesting. Might be something for the to do list down the road.

 

not really, meth injection can, all water does is cool down the combustion chamber. Losing your motor from over boosting is a result of a lean condition. Water does not add any fuel to the combustion mixture. The best way to protect yourself from overboost is having a properly set up map with fuel cut set up properly.

 

I think the spacer is meant for the aftermarket steering wheel only. Bolts up completely different then a stock steering wheel.

 

This is where it all begins... Happy with 300RWHP? Yes you will be for a while. Wait till you meet a friend with a 500HP monster... the bug will get you.. Happy modding!

 

LOL....300-400-500-600-1000 hp someone contact NASA its time to launch.... LOL it will never stop. just fix the car up the way you want it and enjoy it dont worry about numbers so much.


Jeff

 

I have the following mods. Racing Beat cb, Bonez dp, PF intercooler, M2 intake, fuel pump, PFC. Tuned to 295 rwhp I do have a Koyo radiator, Banzai Diff brace and a metal AST.
Hope that helps.

 

I think that's kinda low for thos mods^^^ maybe ran out of fuel issue(need bigger injectors?)

 

Well, because water is not compressible, and it is not a fuel (as you said), it acts as a "buffer" to combustion, effectively increasing the octane rating of the fuel you use.

So if you detonate on 91 pump gas, but not say 93, but 93 isn't available in your area, water injection could eliminate your knock. And don't discount the temperature drops water injection provides, the temperature drop can also aid in preventing detonation.

Of course, the "proper" solution is a tuned ECU, but water injection alone provides a great safety net.

 

Thats what i figured. Oh well..time for a 2002 spec wheel (1CM smaller in diameter) and maybe modify the stock seat rail a bit.

 

Water injection helps greatly, my temps jump from mid to high 30s- low 40s while cruising to mid-low 20c air temp, and helped me get to 18psi no problem

 

Honestly, i've had my FD for a few years now, and it's gone from a hot mess of random mods and a blown coolant seal, to a reliable, autox and track toy... all on stock twins. For what it's worth, here's my thoughts:

300ish hp is tons. Maybe i'm maturing a bit, but i don't get into street drags anymore. Ontario is pretty brutal with street racing penalties, and it's just not worth it, so I don't need the massive power on the street. Twins are nice and driveable, and I drive the car daily in the spring, summer and fall.

I auto-x the car, and it has proven very competitive, even with stock dampers and springs. In fact, there is a ton of time to be had with this car. I just don't have the skill to tap into it yet. My friend co-drove with me for this last season, last year he took the club championship, and has moved into the regional series. He's aggressive, and he can find at least 2 seconds over my best time on average. I've just refreshed the pillowballs, and added some adjustable links in the rear. More power isn't the answer, since i regularly break loose and slide the car with 245 width toyo R888's. The response from the twins is great for autox. If you get a properly sized single for similar response and a broad powerband, you'll be happier, i think. Even look into a set of BnR twins... that would be an option. The real bonus to a single comes in simplifying the boost control system, and eliminating heat, unless you're shooting for retarded power, IMO.

I also track the car at Mosport, and to be honest, on the Driver Development track, which is a little tighter and really technical, my power levels are perfect. I'm not getting left in the dust, and i can outbrake and stick harder than 85% of people on the track. I'll be spending some time on the GP track this summer, and I may revise my opinion on a bigger turbo, as it may run out of legs on the big straight, but probably not.

My Mods: PFS intake & intercoooler, downpipe, power FC, tuned to 14psi, no-brand cat-back,
mishimoto rad (tough for fitment), rotary extreme trailing arms & toe links, new pillowballs, Tokico Illuminas w Tein S tech springs, R888's on stock wheels for track, enkei RPF1's with Fuzion Zri's on the street.

Regards,

Matt

 

methinks better ducting and some water/meth injection is the next step.

 

You won't regret a water/alc. system. Try to find an hks dp or another hap brand that retains the hanger that drops off the transmission. You will notice a nice power bump.

 

What? So the numbers aren't good with those mods?

 

<--- has 2 different downpipes if you want. An HKS JDM downpipe and what I'm pretty sure is an M2 downpipe.

 

actually i thought i saw another mod in that list so i thought it should of been more,

thats about right for thos mods, at what psi was that power made? and was it stock ports?

a friend of mine at the time made about 290 with almost the same exact mods, maybe a different intake and he had a greddy i/c... does the car have a stock ported motor? If you didn't do it already, rewire the fuel pump, so it pumps at 100%.

 

Everything else is stock or I would have listed other mods.

 

Damn, sorry bud, I already ordered and rx7 store DP, RB Catback, Blitz IC and will grab a PFC later on this winter.

 

I didn't read everyone's posts, but 300 wheel hp is perfectly reasonable AND reliable. My car's been at the 290-300 whp (dynojet) level for the last 3 years, about 15-20k miles, daily carbon cleaning, with open track time, couple autocrosses, and 9 1/4 mile drag runs to it's credit... it's been very solid, I already miss it... see my vbgarage link in my sig for mods. Car trapped 108-112 mph in the 1/4 mile (with shitty driver = me ).

Just make sure you address all the little things like injector o-rings, coolant hoses, fuel lines, clamps, etc. Get a Power FC and make sure you find a guy who knows how to tune it... run 12-14 psi boost and you're there!

I wouldn't get too wrapped up in the dyno numbers though... if you want bragging rights for dyno numbers, you have the wrong motor. I think for most people 300 whp is plenty fun on the street and certainly enough to get you in trouble faster than you think... if you really want to know how fast your car is, take it to the local 1/4 mile track and get some numbers.