milling fuel rail for 850 Primaries(dont answer unless youve done it)
#1
milling fuel rail for 850 Primaries(dont answer unless youve done it)
I have another primary fuel rail and a set of 850's. I am currently running a single setup with a To4, 60-1 1.15 a/r., a pfc, walboro, blah blah blah. But I am still running stock fuel(at very low boost, 10psi). So I might as well take the old ones and have them milled. My question is, when ppl talk about milling the primary fuel rail for the 850's, I am not sure why. Are the bases of the 850's larger and the rail needs to be milled for them to seat properly? If so, is it for depth, width? Also I have heard about double grommets? I need some advice on this. PLEASE ONLY ANSWER IF YOU HAVE DONE THIS AND HAVE SUGGESTIONS AND ADVISE. THANKS
#3
Have indeed dont this runnign a set right now. You mill the top of the rail. I did it with a file haha. Took a while but came out much better then my first attempt. Over heated and warped the rail. Its done because the 850s if you noticed are a waaaaay shorter then the 550cc so you have to mill it down it order for the tips to seal properly. You can do double grommets but thats your call. All of these hoem made solutions alwayS HAVE 50/50 OUT COMES. Becasue they are home made.
#4
Speed Mach Go Go Go
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 4,772
Likes: 2
From: My 350Z Roadster kicks my RX7's butt
There is a cap that screws on the top of the rail. It keeps the injectors snug. Since the 850's are shorter, the cap won't keep them snug. You shave the top down the the cap seats lower, thus keeping the 850's in there nice and snug. I also bored down the cone inside the rail, so the tip would be further down as well. This was just to ensure the spray pattern would be outside of the rail.
#6
Ok so what you are saying is that I need to mill down the top of the fuel rail underneath the cap so the injector will seat farther down in the rail. Are the screw holes deep enough to get a tight fit, or do they bottom out if I go to deep? Also, what is too deep, or how far do I need to mill it down? Thanks alot guys this is helping a bunch.
#7
thats a secondary rail. you REALLY need to do some research or have ashop do this for you.
Mistakes and fuel systems don't go together well.
Jesus ******* christ at least glance at the FSM.
Mistakes and fuel systems don't go together well.
Jesus ******* christ at least glance at the FSM.
Trending Topics
#8
Thank you buzzardsluck for your mature response and courtesy, and answering my questions. I know what it is. I used the primary for the example because it is much easier to see and it is essentially the same thing. The principle is the same is it not? Did you read what I said underneath it? Do you or do you not need to mill down the upper part of the rail underneath the clamp that holds the injectors down? I kind of need to know what to tell the shop to what to do don't I so they mill the proper spot? So now that we have a useless post from our above friend here, can someone plz answer my questions now?
Am I on the right track as far as where to mill( on the secondary rail, yes I know)
Are the screw holes deep enough that the screws dont bottom out, or do I need to buy longer screws?
How far am I supposed to mill?
Thanks guys!
Am I on the right track as far as where to mill( on the secondary rail, yes I know)
Are the screw holes deep enough that the screws dont bottom out, or do I need to buy longer screws?
How far am I supposed to mill?
Thanks guys!
#11
Originally Posted by fastyoungone
Thanks BlueTII!! So I guess I will have someone mill it down about .125 inches and slide those bad boys in there and get to work!!!!!
Please take it to a machine shop to do. Make sure you clean out all the metal shavings; use new Mazda O-rings (IMHO, they seal better) or if aftermarket, VITON metric O-rings.
If you haven't changed out the pulsation dampener or the fuel lines in 3-years, I'd replace them with new updated factory parts as well.
Good luck, and be sure to get all your initial tuning numbers ready, otherwise you won't be driving her . . .
:-) neil
#13
Originally Posted by fastyoungone
Thank you buzzardsluck for your mature response and courtesy, and answering my questions. I know what it is. I used the primary for the example because it is much easier to see and it is essentially the same thing. The principle is the same is it not? Did you read what I said underneath it? Do you or do you not need to mill down the upper part of the rail underneath the clamp that holds the injectors down? I kind of need to know what to tell the shop to what to do don't I so they mill the proper spot? So now that we have a useless post from our above friend here, can someone plz answer my questions now?
Am I on the right track as far as where to mill( on the secondary rail, yes I know)
Are the screw holes deep enough that the screws dont bottom out, or do I need to buy longer screws?
How far am I supposed to mill?
Thanks guys!
Am I on the right track as far as where to mill( on the secondary rail, yes I know)
Are the screw holes deep enough that the screws dont bottom out, or do I need to buy longer screws?
How far am I supposed to mill?
Thanks guys!
Anyway the process is VERY SIMPLE. Mill an 1/8 inch off the top of the rail. Bing, bang, boom... YOUR DONE!
Just bring it to any machine shop and tell them to take an 1/8 inch off the top.
#14
Originally Posted by M104-AMG
Yes, and the screw threads are deep enough.
:-) neil
:-) neil
#15
Originally Posted by mono4lamar
I think his response was proper till faul language was involved... You posted a picture of the secondary rail! Your asking about milling the primary rail to accept secondary (850cc) injectors.
Anyway the process is VERY SIMPLE. Mill an 1/8 inch off the top of the rail. Bing, bang, boom... YOUR DONE!
Just bring it to any machine shop and tell them to take an 1/8 inch off the top.
Anyway the process is VERY SIMPLE. Mill an 1/8 inch off the top of the rail. Bing, bang, boom... YOUR DONE!
Just bring it to any machine shop and tell them to take an 1/8 inch off the top.
#18
Originally Posted by fastyoungone
SCHWEEET!!!! Coverd alot of good stuff in this thread that I hope people can use in the future.
My friend saw my replies and thought I was going soft
#19
Speed Mach Go Go Go
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 4,772
Likes: 2
From: My 350Z Roadster kicks my RX7's butt
You may also want to get new screws. You will have to crack them loose with pliers or vise grip. If they are too stubborn, then have a second person turn with a philips screwdriver and hold the rail in a vise while you use the pliers.
#21
Originally Posted by fastyoungone
SCHWEEET!!!! Coverd alot of good stuff in this thread that I hope people can use in the future.
Who would have thought people have been repeatedly asking this question for 5 years? You make reference to people using this thread in the future yet you didn't look to begin with. There is good stuff in many threads, JUST LOOK!
I can completely relate with Buzzardsluck as no one seems to make use of the wonderful resources this forum has to offer.
#22
Originally Posted by slo
there was someone milling them down for like $10 plus shipping both ways, I searched but couldn't find anything.
anyone know who that was?
anyone know who that was?
http://kgparts.com/index.php?page=fuelinjectclean
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Skeese
Adaptronic Engine Mgmt - AUS
65
03-28-17 03:30 PM