ttb

i think you can just pull the relay from what i've read

twint78

well ive got a radiator problem too.

except mine is losing coolant like a bastard.
its not in the engine i dont think,cuz i cant smell it in the exhuast.
i removed the bellypan along time ago.
i dont see any leaks fro the water pump.
the ast is fine.
all i can think is the coolant tank has a hole somewhere.cuz it is always empty but then again so is everything else.

ZeroBanger

if you find a puddle of coolant under the passenger side after you park, its you coolant container. You cannot see the crack, but when the coolant /car is hot it expands and out comes the water. thats why when you fill the container it doesn't come out. One thing I did that temporarily fixed it was buy some gasket seal (permitex) and spray on the bottom of container, it will work for a week or 2 at a time. I replaced mine about 6 months ago and solved the problem.

David

ziftar

iTrader: (1)

I was also running low on coolant, every morning when I checked it. Turned out that it was simply a worn collant filler cap. Once I got the new one, I noticed it didnt want to come off as easy due to the vacum generated from cooling down.

ZeroBanger

thanks everyone for the replies. I pulled the a/c relay and I will see if this makes a difference. If so, I will do a fan mod with the swich later.

I appreciate all your responses

rxrotary2_7

i am not familiar with the PFC, but shouldnt there be a corection map for water temp? he said when the car is hot he can no longer reach full boost... what happens? does the car buck or hesitate at all? and again, have you checked your thermo housing with a laser to find out the true temp? do not rely on the PFC's comander. because if the sensor/signal is bad you are looking in the wrong place with all the fan relay stuff. just dont rule it out.

RonKMiller

Dood, you've got air!

Burp and re-burp through the upper throttle body hose near the firewall. It may take multiple tries over a week.
Do it each time before you fire it up - easy - takes just a few minutes.

ZeroBanger

I dunno, I removed the relay and put the ac on low and my temps were very low on the way home. Isn't the AST supposed to remove the air?

scratchjunkie

hey zero i think your getting **** on your temp...i see 210 even 240f...you will be alright man..try running with your parkinglights on?? well dont stress too much yo lates

ZeroBanger

You think 108C after driving the car in 68 degree weather for 25 minutes is ****?

How bout when its 60 degrees at 11 PM and my temps are 114 and almost in the red? ****?

Thanks.

PaulyDee

Well let me start by saying that if people out there think it's ok to run above 230 degree water temp, they should start saving for a new engine. Anything over 210 for extended periods is causing issues in the long term with your rotor housings.

Now as far as finding why the car is running hot in the first place. It seems most of the obvious stuff has been addressed (thermostat, coolant mixture, radiator quality etc). Other things to keep in mind are:

Radiator opening-do you have fog lights? Do you have those stupid plastic things on the outside of the nose inlet? Is there anything else blocking airflow up there?

Oil cooler-This is something that is always overlooked. Most FD's usually have oil coolers that have most of the fins smashed over flat. Increased oil temperature will raise your water temperature. Check the oil cooler and straighten all the fins out with a pick.

Remember to try and maintain as much airflow as possible THROUGH the radiator. That means a clear path into and out of the radiator. Obviously the intercooler blocks the rear somewhat, but with both fans running is should be sufficient flow.

Also, do your fans run at all three speeds? There is a way to check them (go to Steve Cirian's web site).


Pauly D

P'cola FD

I'm with rxrotary on this: check to see if your sensor is telling the truth. The coolant thermosensor could be screwed up and telling your PFC that it's hot, when it really isn't. Also, it couldn't hurt to put on new caps for the filler neck, and the AST. The AST removes some little bubbles, but if you have big air pockets then you have to get them out with the coolant hose on the back of the throttle body. I fill the coolant up with that hose disconnected, until coolant comes out of that hose. Once the car is warm I take the clamp off of that hose and pinch it back just a bit to let any air out.

ZeroBanger

thanks, I know it was hot. you could not touch the hood it would burn your hand. and that was at 11 PM. IT was hot.

im gonna keep my fans running. they were not comming on at high speed.

David

P'cola FD

Good point. I did that a few months ago, and although I didn't notice anything drastic, I felt a whole lot better about it. It took me about 30 minutes to do my one oil cooler.

Nathan Kwok

Zerobanger,
Just curious, how high does the stock temp gauge go when the PFC reads 114C (237F)?

ttb

my pfc has read 109 and the stock temo gauge looked normal (slightly below middle). this was after shutting her down, not while driving.

johnchabin

iTrader: (2)

I got a brand new thermostat in my daily driver (94 toyota pu). It was bad and the truck ran hot. I replaced it with another new one and all was ok. Thermostats are notorious for failure.

Replace your thermostat. It's cheap and might just fix your problem. How did your mechanic 'test' yours? Did he actually boil it in a pot? I doubt it.

ZeroBanger

when it hit 114, it went 3/4 of the way up below the whiteline. as soon as the temps started to drop, it went back down to half way.

David

paw140

I didn't see this in your original post and I'm not sure if someone mentioned it yet, but maybe you have a bad or weak water pump? I think your next step should be a new thermostat and water pump. And a coolant system flush.

Also, I think you really should check your temperature with a pyrometer or something, just to absolutely eliminate a faulty temp sensor.

ZeroBanger

i'm on my 3rd water pump , its good.

I really appreciate everyone's help. the problem was the fact the fans did NOT come on high speed. They would come on low speed, but a relay or something burned out keepking the high speed fans from starting when it gets hot.

Yesterday on the way home in hot weather I pulled my A/C relay and left the ac on low and my car never got hot. stayed between 86 and 92 and I was pushing the car hard.

David

johnchabin

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the update. Not many guys tell us what the problem ended up being.

Glad all is ok.

rxrotary2_7

glad you are not overheating anymore. but...
how did you come to that conclusion? are you saying a FAN relay burned out? if so, how does having the a/c on let that relay turn the fans on high? i am a bit confused.
i may be wrong here but isnt one of the 4 relays just for the high mode? that is how i remember it. all the relays run off a common ground. wouldnt this prevent them from comming on at all if one did not work?
and by pulling the a/c relay, wouldnt this bypass the a/c from working. yes. so you mean the vents were letting out hot air? wouldnt that be the same thing as not turning on the a/c button but just turning the heat on...in essence making another radiator, or a way to expell heat from the coolant system?

ZeroBanger

Dunno. I pulled my A/C relay and my fans come on when I turn on the A/C. I am sure it has the same effect as using the heat, but you know...im sweating like a pig in 100 + degree weather as it is.

I know nothing about fan relays, switches or sensors. I just know the A/C turns the fans on.

David

ttb

i think when you turn on the A/C the fans kick on at a lower temperature. so if you pull the a/c relay and turn on the a/c then the fans are going to kick in earlier but the a/c won't actually be working.

ttb

so yea, if you pull the a/c relay and turn on the a/c and your blower you're turning on the fans, so it'll cool down the car. seems like your car maybe overheating bc the fans don't naturally turn on by themselves?? so did the mechanic figure out anything?